Car engine runs rough at steady speeds but smooths out only after I apply gas pedal or when I accelerate. Any ideals ?

SYMPTOM 1: ROUGH IDLE IN THE COLD

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine, or at least it runs more smoothly.
Possible causes:

1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
   The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
2. There may be a vacuum leak.
   The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
3. There may be some type of ignition problem.
   The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, and spark plugs.
4. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
   The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
5. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
   The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace components as required.

1. The EGR valve may be bad.
   The Fix: Replace the EGR valve.
2. The engine may have mechanical problems.
   The Fix: Check the compression to determine the engine's condition.
3. Idle speed is set incorrectly.
   The Fix: Set idle speed to the car's original settings.
4. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
   The Fix: Clean or replace the fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 2: ROUGH IDLE WITH WARM ENGINE

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is warm. When the engine is warm or hot and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine.
Possible causes:

1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
   The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
2. There may be a vacuum leak.
   The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
   The Fix: Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
4. Idle speed set incorrectly.
   The Fix: Set idle speed to specs.
5. There may be some type of ignition problem.
   The Fix: Check and replace distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
6. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
   The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test circuits and repair or replace components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
7. The EGR valve may be bad.
   The Fix: Replace EGR valve.

1. The engine may have mechanical problems.
   The Fix: Check compression to determine engine condition.
2. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
   The Fix: Clean or replace fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 3: FAST IDLING

The engine idles too fast. After the engine has run long enough to become warm, the idle speed does not come down to normal. You really notice it when you come to a stop and must have to push ******* the brake pedal to keep the car from moving.
Possible causes:

1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
   The Fix: Replace the accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
2. The engine may be overheating.
   The Fix: Check and repair the cooling system.
3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
   The Fix: Check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)

1. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
   The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
2. There may be some type of ignition problem.
   The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
3. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
   The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required.
4. There may be a vacuum leak.
   The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
5. You have a bad idle speed control unit.
   The Fix: Replace the idle speed control unit.
6. The alternator may not be working properly.
   The Fix: Replace the alternator.

SYMPTOM 4: STALLING UPON STOPPING

Car stalls when stopped quickly. You are driving along and everything is just fine ... until you let off the gas pedal and apply the brakes. The engine starts shaking and may even stall. Not a good thing to happen because you lose power steering when the engine dies and could risk an accident.
Possible causes:

1. There may be a serious vacuum leak.
   The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
2. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
   The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
3. Broken linkage.
   The Fix: Repair or replace the linkage as required.

Idling issues can be very frustrating, but with some patient troubleshooting, you'll have a real chance at figuring it out. Remember to always check your engine idle with the air conditioning and defroster turned off, as both of these systems are designed to change the idle when they are on due to the air conditioning system's demands on the engine.

engine light flashing means a problem needs immediate attention ----have the vehicle scanned most auto stores offer this service for free more than likely the viberation is what is setting off code

Check the Fluid Level of your Transmission, You could also have worn clutches but I would start with the Transmission Fluid Level. Be VERY CAUTIOUS to use the Correct Transmission Fluid or you will damage your transmission and cause you quite the headache.

A variance of 20 PSI indicates a problem.

You have to do a drive cycle, the fuel tank has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank of fuel, can not be above or below this fuel level.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1. Cold Start
In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50ºC (122ºF) and within 6ºC (11ºF) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2. Idle
The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on maximum and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3. Accelerate
Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5. Decelerate
Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6. Accelerate
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7. Hold Steady Speed
Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8. Decelerate
This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Yeah you should since a tune up is required every 30,000 miles.

Have to plugs and wires been replaced according to the manual every 30/60K? Check for play in the distributor. Look in the throttle body with a light for oil on the intake floor, this would be a bad lower intake gasket. Make sure to use the factory recommended spark plugs, it only likes Champions.

Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
   Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
   
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.
   
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
   
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
   
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
   
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
   
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
   
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Sounds like a possible vaccume hose leak?

Sounds like fuel starvation. Would suggest cleaning any filters in the fuel line or replacing.
Also check the stop idle valve. This should be inline in the air intake pipe to the intake manifold..
Remove it and clean with WD40.Make sure you note the orientation of the spring.
To reset the ECU disconnect the battery for 5 minute the reconnect. The ECU should reset to factory settings. Make sure you know radio and alarm codes!
Try petrol additive STP or Redex to clean inside the engine.
Thats as far as my knowledge goes, hope it helps.