Super cab, 4.6 liter 4X4. How do I remove the C-clips on the rear axels?

You need to remove the cover from the rear carrier/ meatball its full of oil so have a pan to catch it loosen the filler plug first.once the cover it off you will see 4 small gears spider gears remove the pin it will have a small bolt holding it then the gears will come out then push the axle in from the out side. Then you will see a clip like a horse shoe shape it slides into a grove in the axle shaft pull it out then the slide the axle out .Its not as hand as it may sound if your set up with simple tools its like an hours work

To replace pinon bearing you need to pull wheels and the brake drums off next pull cover off the back of the rear end (make sure you have a drain pan under rear end) next turn dive shaft till you see a small bolt remove bolt pull center pin out push axle in pull c clips out pull axels out remove four bolts holding ring and spider gears remove gears assembly next remove drive shaft remove bolt from pinon push pinon in remove seal and bearing

THE AXLE HAS TO COME OUT OF SPINDLE USE A PRY BAR BEHIND THE AXLE AND PRY IT OUT OF THE SPINDLE IF THIS IS A VACCUM OPERATED SPINDLE THE SEAL WILL (HAS TO ) COME OUT

fror fixing the brakesw take the other rear wheel off and duplicate what u see. to get the axel out u must first remove diff cover in center of rearend then u will see a clip for each side axel remove clip and axel will slide out. good luck fron 1 to 5 being difficult its a 3

You don't. Ever work on a rear axle. Remove cover,one bolt,pull pin and axle clip.Then pull axle, and off to auto parts store, to press on new bearing.

im not sure if a 2000 f150 and a 2000 f250 have the exact steering column,but incase it is then check at the base of the column inside and you may see a triangler shape bracket that the shift cable connects to,there will be 2 torque screws holding the bracket to the column,either a t-20 or t-25 not sure,they may be loose so the shifter will be sloppy...my 2000 f150 had that problem and i stumbled upon it,it seems to be a 2000 year issue...about the manual hubs,try locking them in and drive forward and reverse very slow a few times,if they lock in then they are sticky and it takes time for the spring inside to push then together.lock the hubs in first,then after a while shift to 4x4,because if they are just sticky,it may strip the teeth on the lockouts from the axel turning against the inside of the lockout.

The front axel is a two piece assy. remove the 4wd
shift moter from the axel housing. Once the moter
and fork are off , remove outer axel.To remove inner
axel, remove differential cover and let it drain.
There is a C clip on the axel, remove it and work the
axel out through the axel tube.(if it is broken)
To remove the rear axel. Remove diff. cover and drain.
Remove the pinion lock nut(or spring clip) and slide
back pinion shaft. Remove retaining clip from axel
and remove axel. To remove broken piece I use to
use a length of an old whip antenna, to push it out.
If you can find a piece of heavy gauge wire to push
it out.(a plumbers snake may work)Also only have
one axel at a time out of either housing, this will
make it easier to reinstall the axels.
I hope I was of some help. Good luck.

It's usually the window winder that presents the problem . Remove all visable retaining screws ie; Grab handle , Internal door opening lever , Button on top of panel (if applicable ) etc . The majority panel are a pop snap on type . Remove the winder lever withthe aid of a shoe lace or thin piece of cloth material, The winder is retained by a horse-shoe shaped spring clip. .... Pull the shoe-lace/ material in the opposite direction of the winder retainer clip and it will easily come off, but it is a spring clip and may fly off so be careful. Good luck

You will have to remove the rear end plate off of the back of the rear end. Then turn the carrier untill you see a big silver pin that goes through the spider gears. Those will be 4 small gears in the rear end carrier. If you look at the right side of the carrier were the pin goes through it you will see a small bolt head, That bolt goes through the carrier and holds the pin in place. Remove that bolt then reach up in the rear end housing and push the pin towards you untill it comes out. ( DO NOT TURN ANYTHING AFTER YOU REMOVE THE PIN) are the spider gears will fall out.


Now get someone to push the axel in while you are looking at the 4 small gears in the housing, when they push the axel in a C-clip will fall off the end of the axel and into the rear end, You will see it fall out. Then just pull the axel out.



When you put the axel back in, push it all the way in then slide the c-clip over the end of the axel and then pull out on axel and that will hold the clip in place untill you put the big long pin back in the carrier. I hope you understand, just watch what you are doing. GOOD LUCK.

Not that difficult, raise and support the rear of the truck and remove the wheels. Might as well replace both sides so you know you have new seals, remove the differential cover and drain the fluid. Once differential is opened and cleaned , remove the axle "C" clip that hold the axle in place and slide the axle out. Once the axle is out remove the wheel seal and clean around the area. This would be a good time to replace the wheel bearing too since you have access to them and there not that expensive. Install the new bearing and seal, note make sure you oiled the bearing and seal before installing it back and take care when installing the axle back in and "C: clip. Use RTV silicon gasket maker to seal the differential cover and wheels back on and lower. If your lazy like i am, you can drain the differential fluid and replace it with a 50/50 mix with gear oil and Lucas engine oil additives. That may stop the leak and get you a few more miles. You gear oil is (ford 75W-140) (Dana 80W-90)and the capacity is 2.6 liters and 3.5 liters if you have the 10.25 Ring gear. Good luck and hope this helps.