1994 Chevrolet Suburban Logo
Posted on Dec 20, 2010
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When braking and almost to a complete stop for some reason the anti lock kicks in. i have to let off and push the pedal again.

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Amrit sahni

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  • Posted on Jun 25, 2015
Amrit sahni
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Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)
Purpose Anti-lock brake systems (ABS) - generally also referred to as anti-lock
systems (ALS) - are designed to prevent the vehicle wheels from locking
as a result of the service brake being applied with too much force, especially
on slippery road surfaces.
The idea is to maintain cornering forces on braked wheels to ensure that
the vehicle or vehicle combination retains its driving stability and manoeuvrability
as far as physically possible. The available power transmission
or grip between tyres and carriageway should also be utilised as
far as possible to minimise the braking distance and maximise vehicle
deceleration.
Why ABS? Although today commercial vehicle brakes are designed to a very high
technical standard, braking on slippery roads often results in potentially
dangerous situations. During full or even partial braking on a slippery
road it may no longer be possible to fully transfer the braking force onto
the road due to the low coefficient of friction (friction coefficient (k)) between
the tyres and the carriageway. The braking force is excessive and
the wheels lock up. Locked wheels no longer provide any grip on the
road and are almost incapable of transferring any cornering forces
(steering and tracking forces). This often has dangerous consequences:
- The vehicle becomes unsteerable
- The vehicle breaks away in spite of countersteering, and starts to
swerve.
- The braking distance is significantly increased
- Tractor-trailer combinations or semitrailer trains may break away or
jackknife.
Load sensing valve influence On dry roads today's load sensing valves (ALB) alone are often capable
of preventing the wheels from locking if the vehicle is unladen; they also
help the driver to effectively grade the braking process on wet road surfaces,
but they are unable to prevent locking as such (no slip monitoring).
In addition, they are unable to counteract any overreactions on the
part of the driver, or any variances in frictional or adhesion coefficients
which may apply to different sides of the vehicle, or indeed to its different
axles (?-split road surfaces).
Benefits of ABS: Only the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
- guarantees stable braking characteristics on all road surfaces.
- maintains steerability and generally reduces the braking distance
- prevents vehicle combinations from jackknifing
- reduces tyre wear.
Limits of ABS Although ABS is an effective safety device, it can not suspend the limits
defined by driving physics. Even a vehicle fitted with ABS will become
uncontrollable if driven too fast around a corner.
So ABS is not a licence for a maladjusted style of driving or failure to observe
the correct safety distance.
4
ABS Training Anti-Slip Regulation (ASR)
Anti-Slip Regulation (ASR)
Why ASR? Increasing the engine output (accelerating) on a slippery road surface
can easily lead to the maximum adhesion on one or all powered wheels
being exceeded causing them to spin, especially if the vehicle is unladen
or partially laden.
Spinning wheels when driving off or accelerating represent a safety risk
just like locked wheel do when braking.
Reasons - Wheels that spin transfer just as little cornering force as locked
wheels.
- They also no longer transfer any tractive power onto the road.
Consequences - Vehicles that do not move or get stuck.
- Vehicles that can no longer be steered, jackknife on uphill uphill
gradients, or swerve in corners.
Benefits of ASR ASR prevents the powered wheel from spinning and provides the following
benefits:
- Tractive power and cornering forces are maintained.
- Stable driving behaviour is ensured when moving off, accelerating
and negotiating corners on slippery roads.
- The indicator lamp (if installed) is used to warn the driver of slippery
road conditions.
- Tyre wear is reduced to a minimum, and the motor vehicle's drive
train protected
- The risk of accidents is further reduced.
ASR and ABS: ASR represents a worthwhile addition to an ABS-controlled braking system.
All that is required to turn ABS control into full ABS/ASR control is
an ECU with the additional ASR function and a few additional components
for controlling the differential brake and the engine. This why ASR
is only available in combination with ABS.
Even a differential lock for off-road use and ASR do not exclude but complement
each other.
Limits of ASR The traction capacity of an all-wheel driven commercial vehicle can not
be achieved by a motor vehicle with only one driving axle - not even with
optimal ASR.

when braking  and almost to a complete stop for - when-braking-almost-complete-stop-vi1ay411tmzjz03ru4fkmxgj-5-0.jpg

Anonymous

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  • Expert 85 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 20, 2010
Anonymous
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It sounds like the anti lock system has failed. If the problem is related to the wheel sensors you should have an anti lock light on warning you of problems. If you have no anti lock light on I would bleed the brakes because air in the system can cause problems, and see if the problem persists. If the problem is still there then the anti lock unit needs to be replaced.

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1991 Mazda B2200 Series Brake light and Anti-lock light on? Brake pedal pushed to the floor and truck won't stop. Is it the master cylinder and wheel bearing?

The master cylinder and the wheel bearings are completely un realated parts. The first thing to check is the brake fluid level. If it's full and you have zero braking and zero pedal then you may well have a dead m/c. If you find an empty reservior, fill it and then figure out where it went. A leak anywhere will have the same result, no fluid, no brakes. The ABS issue may or may not be related but you need to solve the no pedal problem first.
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I have a 2002 chevy tahoe 5.3L 4wd. When I try to slow down the brake pedal seems to be kicking back at me. And the car won't stop as it should. there is some weird noise along with it. I had the...

The noise and the kick back you are experiencing is the ABS system kicking in which should not happen unless you completely lock up the brakes.
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My abs light comes on occasionally. everything seems fine, then some times I can't stop as well as I should. It seems that the abs is kicking in & it makes ticking noises in brake pedal area. It also...

There's a service bulliten about that problem with rust build-up on the front hubs pushing the sensors out of posistion [ most common on the pickups in areas that use road salt ], it happens mostly at very low speed. The best way to find out the problem is to have the system scanned.
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ABS not working right how do I turn it off

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Strange vibration at the pedal when breaks lock

sounds like warped rotors, if the steering wheel also shakes then that would tell me its in the front, replace the front pads and rotors that will solve your problem.dont try resurfacing youll just have pulsating brakes again in a month or two.
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It has new brakes but the abs light came on and now the brake pedal is hard and I barely have any brakes

If the person who did the brakes did not release the bleeder screws on the front brake calipers to prevent pushing brake fliud back into the anti lock hydralic unit when retracting the brake caliper pistons they may have damaged the anti lock unit. Try doing a complete beed out of the brake fluid front and back to regain function.
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Anti lock brakes

Well this is very serious I hope you deal with it right away. You mentioned that sometimes the pedal was hard,do you mean that its all the way up and it doesnt feel like you have power brakes?? If so have you noticed any sounds like air escaping (swoosh sound when brakes applied)? Failure of the power booster causes pedal to become very hard and could possibly be your problem for hard pedal if I understood you correctly. check to make sure that vacuum to the booster is conected properly and hose not kinked..Now for the solution for the pedal fading to the floor... You either have air in your brake system, A bypassing master cylinder , or a hydraulic leak...Were your brakes serviced recently?? if so try bleeding your brake system first...That would be the first step if still the problem persist I would isolate exactly where the problem was coming from.. To do this you would start at the passenger rear wheel and line clamp the brake hose to make that part of your brake sytem inoperable...when clamped try your brakes and note if brakes improved or had know affect on system (when testing obviously im not suggesting you drive to determine results of test procedure)repeat test for each wheel you have isolated the problem when brakes feel normal with one wheel clamped,which ever it may be.. This isnt as hard as it might soun and if you are confused at all dont hesitate to ask questions... Remember the only dumb question is the one you fail to ask I would hate for you to get into an accident ... Good luck!!!
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