Heater fault just replaced rad,water pump,thermostat but cant get heaters worm in cab cant find a bleed screw any advise

either you have a bad thermostat or you have a air lock in your heater hoses remember your heater is fed by the hose by the upper rad hose return is the hose going to the water pump, to bleed the air out fill rad leave the rad cap off start engine run for 5 min. the check the coolant level,fill to top of neck replace rad cap tight, K-D tools make a special funnel to solve this air lock problem

there should be bleed screws where the rad hoses join to water pump,thermostat housing ,also run engine with the heater turned to full heat when doing the bleeding as can get air pocket in heater matrix

Possible trapped in system. Bleed system, should have two small screw bleeders, one in front of left valve cover on pipe behind water pump and the other on coolant pipe outlet as you follow upper rad. hose towards engine. Engine cool, remove rad cap, open both bleed screws and fill rad until coolant flows free out both bleed ports. close both bleed screws, rad cap off, start engine and let idle until upper hose is hot to touch , shut off, let it cool down for 20 minutes, top up rad and install cap. restart car ,drive and check.

did you bleed the system. you have to run the vehicle with the rad cap off ,controls set to hot and keep it revved up to 1500 rpm.it should girgle inside indicating movement of water. top up and overflow the rad and close the rad cap.once the heat comes thru. if no heat then go after the thermostat.

so we can assume you removed all bubbles by bleeding and no vapor lock in engine.(i assume that you did this when in front of car is raised to collect bubble at highest point)


if done correctly there should not be any bubbles in system. so we can say that your cabin heater core is clogged partially. remove is and clean it. if it cant be done you need a new heater core. to reach it you need to remove some dash panels. dont brake clips when removing dash.

your blend door on the heater assembly is bad, its under the dash

could be the thermostat also could be air locking in the heater hoses as well as the heater controll valve is malfunctioning

if you drained all the water out the engine you may need to bleed the air out of the heater to get it to work right,
look for a plastic bleed velve on a rubber hose it will be high up above the rad or header tank fill rad with water open bleed velve and let water out till no air is in it, top up water in rad,,, do this with a cold engine,,

clogged with old rad chunks
no white smoke

Hi,
Not too familiar with this model but.... First some questions! Has the fault started after the pipes & rad replaced or were they replaced to remedy problem? If fault happened since work then i'd suggest an air lock in the system in which case you will need to 'bleed' the system of air. Make sure the expansion tank is the highest point & look for any bleed valves on the hoses - usually near the heater matrix. Sometimes it may be necessary to help the process by removing the temperature guage sender unit to allow the air to escape as air cannot pass through a closed thermostat. If the fault was there before, does the expansion tank seem to build up pressure very quickly? Do lots of air bubbles appear with the engine running & the pressure cap off?