Where is the timing mark on the crank shaft on a 1996 volvo 960

at the dealer can help you

Need help with what Thanks Viper

check the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket ther will be a dot on each of the of them they must be alligned in the proper way

run fault codes and check for cam/crank position sensor. Check that the cam shaft is turning ( broken timing belt/chain) check that the immobiliser is operational.

There is a fairly comprehensive description on the following website:

http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyinstructions/volvo_960_timing_belt.htm
Timing belt replacement instructions on 1997 Volvo 960

you are in a bit of a bind. Turning the engine over will result in bent valves so do not touch the crank shaft. you have to loose off all the rockers/ cam followers even to the point of removing the cam shaft. having done that remove no1 cylinder spark plug and by the use of a thin piece of wire turn the crank until the piston reaches top dead center. find this by rocking the crank back and forward until the piston dose'n move up or down check for the crank timing mark next replace the cam shaft and position the cam lobes for no1 piston in such a position that the inlet and exhaust valves move slightly up or down when the cam is moved slightly left or right. this is called valve over lap and with the piston on top dead center means that you now have valve timing for the engine. Cam timing marks can be dot on gear to shiny link on chain or if using a belt a dot on tooth lineing up with mould mark or join on head before starting up do a compression check to prove that there are no bent valves. if you are not mechanically minded enough to attempt the valve timing method it may be cheaper in the long term to let a qualified person do the job

just align the cam and crank marks with the marks on the covers. the timing marks WILL NOT ALIGN with the number one piston on TDC. just align the marks and the car will run ok. that's the correct way to do it.

First, your belt should have marks on it. they line up to the marks on the cam and the mark on the crank. If you don't have marks, check the old belt. If it has marks, transfer them to the new one. They are important and make the job 10 times easier. Your crank should be on tdc, on it's mark, and your cams also, on their marks. Once there, the cams can be clamped so they don't spring. If you have to move the engine, pull some spark plugs to take off the compression. Turn it over with a big socket on the crank shaft. Don't forget the pistons will hit the valves if they are not moving with the crank, so do the cams first, to get them out of the way, they only spring a little, 1/4 turn at the most. Get it lined up, get the belt lined up, pull the pin on the tensioner, you should be all set. Hope this helps.

I hope you've solved the problem by now, but there are alignment marks on the crank shaft (top pulley), idler (lower side), and cam shaft (smaller, bottom pulley) which should be aligned with stationary marks on the timing belt rear cover.

The belt has marks that align with the aforementioned marks (lines). The double marks on the belt align with the camshaft marks and the single marks with the others.

Loosen the tensioner clamp (nut) to allow the spring loaded tensioner to press on the belt and retighten the nut.

Rotate the crank shaft (clockwise, probably two revolutions) and make sure the pulley marks realign to the marks on the cover (they don't have to realign with the marks on the belt).

Rotate the crank shaft a full revolution once the belt is on and check that alignment is preserved.

Periodically loosen and retension the tensioner nut (access through a hole in the cover) to ensure that tension is maintained as the belt relaxes.

you do 14 foot pounds then 45 foot pounds then a 120 degree turn.if aluminum heads are what you have