Car runs great and has about 200k on it. I have had it since it was new but about 100k ago the car started stalling after extended trips on the freeway. At the base of the offramp one out of 10 times the car would just stall and have to be restarted. Once you got her easily started again she runs great until the extended trip on the freeway again where one out of 10 times she stalls again. The dealer has looked at it several times and once found a crimped hose under the air cleaner. I hoped that was the end of the problem but it still stalls as described.

called ENGINE STALLS. and no engine told at all, nor transmission

3.8L
4.6L (2V)
4.6L (4V) = valve count per cyl.


stick shift M/T ,or A/T box.??? (a/t clutch can jam)
or will not sustain running. (I can not see it stall or hear it)
there are a huge list of causes and 20 or more tests
I can do a 100 pages text, just on this. causes are vast.
test 1:
with fast right foot at start can you keep it running?????
ever get a tune up fully in 25 years>? oops
test 2 of 100
start engine with , radio and blower and head lamps all on
do they all go dead at STALL, (as engine stalls )
try new spark spark plugs and HV wire sets, if distributor there, cap and rotor new? (not there sure) but wire sets are. there.
spark plugs 200k miles old? 100k is max max.
clean filters?
battery main 12vdc charged fully and lugs clean.?
oil lever good
fuel pressure good
engine cylinder compression tests pass. over 150psi.

if all electrics die at stall that means some kind if 12vdc power loss.
fuses all good?
scan the PCM is best to see if it sees errors, called DTC,
like P03xx errors that kill spark. or show any problems.
and more we must scan first, or waste vast amounts if time gue$$ing

looks like all 3 engines use wasted spark , no distributor
one engine has 3 coil pack to run 6cylinders.
others have 2x2 packs the V*8
I will stop here NO ENGINE TOLD AT All and I flat refuse to do all 3.

the car needs service, using tools and skills.
you can check fuse
you can scan it,
you can try to start the engine in Neutral.
or start car with driven wheels (L/R) raised unloading tranny if it is jammed.
jumper cable jump starts off line other car running , battery theirs
this solves 12vdc power uses on some.

That's a loaded question.
Has it been well maintained ? Do you do all the service when the factory says to ? If you don't, do you have a good reason for not doing it ?
Are you a good driver ? No panic stops, jackrabbit starts. Not running off the road all the time.
Mostly around town ? Stop and Go ? Short trips or long trips ?
If you do everything right you should get 200K out of it. Maybe more.
Do all the bad things - 100K.
Lubrication/oil changes would be the #1 things to keep up with.

Some of the early model electronic speedo's only went to 199k and restarted at 100k sort of like the old days 5 digit with tenths once rolled over 100k you had a new car with zero miles on it then they added a 6th digit it took 1 million miles to roll over now with electronics once the 1 is burned in it is there to stay.

No the computer not going bad. The blue smoke is oil burning in the combustion chamber. The cause of this is most likely caused by worn piston rings. The way vehicle is running cause probably is do to loose of compression.

BMW says that the transmission fluid is permanent. However, you have to keep in mind that they do not greatly care whether a car lasts 200k miles or 300k miles, so long as it makes it though the warranty period.
BMW also said that the previous generation (e36) fluid was permanent, and that has proven to be untrue.
I believe that the 1999 323 uses the later, really expensive, synthetic transmission fluid, so brace yourself for a hefty bill.
I recommend replacing the older generation fluid every 50k miles and the newer generation (yours) fluid every 100k miles. My wife's 330 is approaching 100k miles and I intend to replace her fluid soon.

4th gear synchro may be stuck on its mating surface.

yes timing belt is a must then a 10,000mile service old school style ,you know back brake drums off ,oil can and grease where needed ,bulbs cleaned spare wheel carrier oiled and greased ,car jack oiled .ect ect

hello,good day,first we are in fuel side,better to install a fuel gauge,to determine the right pressure, is not mention your fuel pump relay,this should also check,some occasion the power supply is missing,now if all is in order (fuel side) then your switching unit(transistor box) need tobe check,assuming your engine is 103 engine,ty

I had same problem a couple years ago with 95 sl2, i had new wires and plugs instaled and they replaced the valves also. car works great since then...

did you get a good answer to your question
paul