Xk8 jaguar with p1367 &p1368 also p0351 to p0358 ignition coil A to H primary and secondary.i cleared the codes and they returned.Car will rev but will not idle and then hard to start.When engine running and put into drive no power at all.

I think I may have found the problem online. Yes, the ECM sends the rectangular signal to the coils based on input from the crank sensor. I don't think one bad coil can cause this problem. I searched 1367 and found some hits that indicate a leaky capacitor in the ECM can be the cause. This makes sense to me, as a bad cap can pull down the voltage being supplied to the coils during operation. You would have to use an oscilloscope to verify the signals are not at ground under load, but perhaps the cure is not that hard--unless you have an oscilloscope...

Sorry, but the lead I was following did not pan out in terms of a procedure to fix. Are you good with electronics? You don't want to mess up your ECM, but if you know what you're doing you can save yourself a lot of money. The computers aren't cheap, and they're a pain to reflash and recalibrate. If your problem is just a shorted capacitor, it may be relatively easy to fix. But don't open the ECM unless you're comfortable with electronics. And, you would want to get the wiring diagram--maybe at the library--to see which pins on the ECU deliver the coil pulses so that you can find the components on the circuit board that are causing this problem. If you can't find a wiring diagram with the pinouts, maybe you could trace a coil wire back to the ECM to identify the pins. Or, maybe you might get lucky and the burned cap would be obvious when you open the unit.

If the thought of all this turns your stomach, maybe you know someone that's good with electronics that can give you a hand. And, if you know such a person, maybe they have an oscilloscope and could verify the peak-to-peak voltage to the coils with the engine running (before tearing into the ECM).

One thing you want to do if you decide to take out the ECM is make sure you have any radio or other anti-theft codes recorded, and then remove both terminals from the car battery before disconnecting the ECM. Last Jag I worked on, the ECU was in the trunk.

Lemme know what you think. Sorry, but the lead I was following did not pan out in terms of a procedure to fix. Are you good with electronics? You don't want to mess up your ECM, but if you know what you're doing you can save yourself a lot of money. The computers aren't cheap, and they're a pain to reflash and recalibrate. If your problem is just a shorted capacitor, it may be relatively easy to fix. But don't open the ECM unless you're comfortable with electronics. And, you would want to get the wiring diagram--maybe at the library--to see which pins on the ECU deliver the coil pulses so that you can find the components on the circuit board that are causing this problem. If you can't find a wiring diagram with the pinouts, maybe you could trace a coil wire back to the ECM to identify the pins. Or, maybe you might get lucky and the burned cap would be obvious when you open the unit.
If the thought of all this turns your stomach, maybe you know someone that's good with electronics that can give you a hand. And, if you know such a person, maybe they have an oscilloscope and could verify the peak-to-peak voltage to the coils with the engine running (before tearing into the ECM).
One thing you want to do if you decide to take out the ECM is make sure you have any radio or other anti-theft codes recorded, and then remove both terminals from the car battery before disconnecting the ECM. Last Jag I worked on, the ECU was in the trunk.
Lemme know what you think.