1995 Ford Explorer Logo
Yevgeniy Posted on Mar 15, 2017
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4.0, 4x4, near 200k miles. Vehicle shudders at light acceleration at approx. 55mph after deceleration. The symptom is intermittent and is less likely to occur with harder throttle. I thought it was an engine misfire, but does not occur in lower gears. (Recent transmission fluid / filter change. Small metal object in shape of a cylinder found in bottom of pan, approx. 4mm in diameter and a color of a roller bearing - any idea where that belongs? somewhere in the transmission, ha ha, I know that much!) Drive is slow to engage, reverse is good. This morning engine hesitated right at stopping, as if the trans was not releasing / slipping enough. I am thinking about getting a used trans from a junk yard. Here is the question: do I need a new torque converter? Doesn't that provide the slip for the transmission?

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Marvin

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  • Ford Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 15, 2017
Marvin
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You are describing torque converter clutch shudder.

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alicantecoli

Colin Stickland

  • 22516 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 09, 2010

SOURCE: 1995 Ford Explorer, 4.0, 4x4,

1995 ,and changing gearboxes ,is it honestly worth it ,this vehicle is 15yrs old and not worth more that 500 euros in its present condition ,their are two of these gas consuming monsters here in a local car dealer and i expect he would pay you to remove them ,anyway if you do change it then i doubt if you need to change the torque converter ,but you will have to remove it with the box so you can locate it in the new one prior to fitting ,their is a dog clutch shape that has to align for the front pump drive .Best advice is to renew the vehicle with a diesel coupled to a manual gearbox

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2008 Ford Explorer with 200K miles; just had single banging noise at 55mph and when we got home, the wrench light came on. Shut off car and light is off with restart. Is it dangerous?

treat all noises as dangerous until you can find the source of the noise
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take it to an accredited service center with experience on your make of car and have the fault codes read to see if the fault that put the light on was recorded
have all oils checked for metal particles, drive lines checked, broken or missing parts
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What is causing noise in front? It seems to be a pulsing shudder as you drive. does not appear to be brakes related. any thoughts? Drive train?

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Buick regal drive cycle instructions

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1995 Ford Explorer, 4.0, 4x4, near 200k miles. Vehicle shudders at light acceleration at approx. 55mph after deceleration. The symptom is intermittent and is less likely to occur with harder throttle. I...

1995 ,and changing gearboxes ,is it honestly worth it ,this vehicle is 15yrs old and not worth more that 500 euros in its present condition ,their are two of these gas consuming monsters here in a local car dealer and i expect he would pay you to remove them ,anyway if you do change it then i doubt if you need to change the torque converter ,but you will have to remove it with the box so you can locate it in the new one prior to fitting ,their is a dog clutch shape that has to align for the front pump drive .Best advice is to renew the vehicle with a diesel coupled to a manual gearbox
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OBD test failure

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
  1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
  2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner2_bing.gif on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater2_bing.gif, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
  3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
  4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator2_bing.gif pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
  7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
  8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
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Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:

  1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
    Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
  2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.
  3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
  4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
  7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
  8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

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Slight hesitation on pull-off with slight autobox shudder

Yes. Sounds like a plugged Trans filter or burned fluid. A full service on the Trans usually runs about $90 and is money well spent.

Another problem-which bugged me for 3 months, and had your similar symptoms, was a worn out fan clutch. It sent a shudder throughout the vehicle which mimicked a transmission issue. I know it sounds silly, but a new fan clutch cured my shifting issues.

The fan should rotate smoothly with some resistance (Engine OFF, of course) If you feel binding of any kinf, it probably is bad. Also check to see if you can cause movement fore and aft. If you can get it to rock back and forth, it is bad and needs to be replaced.

A fan clutch for that vehicle usually runs about $55
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