2005 jag s type the parking brake will not go off and says park brake default what could this be and how much will it cost to fix or could i do it myself . its not drivable right now

the 3 main issues with jag electronic park brake faults are 1st the sliders in the rear caliper frames sieze up which tells the park brake module that the travel is excessive and turns it off 2nd the wiring to the park brake motor chaffes on the rear subrame. 3rd the park brake motor fails. try a battery reset by disconnect the -v battery terminal for a couple of mins. reconnect and work parkbrake on/off to recalibrate, if it still comes on parkbrake failure then try the other poss faults, hope this helps

Not familiar with Jags, But it is the range selector switch.

its the senser switches =loose,not contacting thetrunk lid the wire to them loose adrift,fuse gone

Try a reset of the park brake.
Make sure you have your radio code.!!
Disconnect the battery - leave for 10 Min's.
Reconnect.
Turn ignition on. If fault has not reset - try the following
Apply foot brake (not too hard)
Apply park-brake switch following instructions on the message center.

Use this method for any park brake fault as most of the time it fixes the minor problems caused by glitches and low battery voltage.
hope this helps good luck

not a 100% on jags but most cars have a switch under the brake arm to let you release the shifter when you press the brake

Have you got 'park brake fault' message?
see reset instructions for brake faults in earlier postings.
Good Luck,

Unfortunatly this is normal, nothing can be done about it. Get pads checked every 15,000 miles to save discs.

I worked in a Jag shop back in the '70's in Los Angeles, but I'm from New England, where this is a BIG problem, unless you use the parking brake ALL the time.  Actually this is true for all vehicles!
If the case is that you don't usually use the parking brake, and then you go to use it, it will sometimes lock on due to rust, corrosion and dirt in the cable.
SOMETIMES, if you are very lucky, you can drown the cable in WD-40, soaking it several times a day, from inside the car, and under the car as well, if you can get to it.
Each time you do this, hold the release button and work the lever over and over so that maybe it will release.
If this doesn't work, then you have to replace the cable.
Sorry that it's not an easy fix.  Ultimately you might have to have it towed to a dealer or shop to replace the cable.
Final thought...  sometimes the problem is with the levers on the brake assemblies, that can stick.  If you can get to them, give them a slight 'tap' with a hammer to see if they will suddenly snap open.  Make sure the brake lever is down and the button is held in by a helper.
If this is the case, a VERY light squirt of lube at the pivot points might keep it from sticking again, but be sure to use the parking brake often.
If the car is an automatic, the device that 'locks' the transmission when it's in 'Park' is called a parking pawl.  It is a small steel pin about 1/8" to 3/16" that gets shoved into a parking gear slot.  This is what keeps the car from rolling, so it's VERY important to use the parking brake to assist this, especially when someone bumps the car a little when they are parking their car!  Oh, and the parking pawl is most times the first thing into the tranny when assembling it, so it'a lot of work to replace one.
Good Luck.

Diane,

It's happened to my Jag S type V8 (2000) twice- resulting in the car being towed to my mechanic.

It's the J-gate shifter-- it's plastic piece that fails when stuck in park (it's not your transmission going out, but that will happen by 60K miles).

Way to avoid getting stuck is to first pull the parking brake before shift from drive into park. And keep the parking brake engaged when you shift from park into drive or reverse (after you have shifted, then release the parking brake). I know it's crazy, but it works! Jag even addresses this in the Owner's Manual.

Beware: the car is a piece of junk- I can't wait to get rid of mine- going on 4 years and nothing but problems, spent over $10K on repairs....

when you replaced the pads did you make sure that the sliders were free if they are partially siezed it gives the the signal to the parkbrake module that the movement is excesive , but also at your model/year there was a prob with the parkbrake motor going bad or the wiring to it chaffed on the rear subframe try to get the fault codes out of the parkbrake module using a obd2 code reader that may have the clue to recalibrate the parkbrake disconnect the battery for 10 mins reconnect apply footbrake with ign. on and work parkbrake on/off 3or4 times