Esprit vacuum Thanks Tech101, that was lightning fast!!! The problem is I can't see a pod missing a line even with a mirror. It actually seems to be working on all settings but not blowing as it should since the one door isn't switching all the way. I might have even left a pod out knowing me, I was younger 10 years ago lol. I'm getting ready to go to work now, but I'll pull the shift console out so I can get a better view this weekend. You helped me as much as anything with knowing what doors are supposed to control what level and direction. Much appreciated. Chris

The Meriva door mirror is mounted from the outside of the door. You will need an extra long Torx key to adjust it. I think it is a T40 size.
First you will need to remove the plastic trim cover on the top of the actual mirror pod. This is the cover that is the same colour as the car. This is clipped on and can be trouble to get off without you breaking it.
Using a flat screwdriver GENTLY insert it between the curved, coloured cover and the black plastic of the actual mirror pod. CAREFULLY work your way all the way around the coloured cover. TAKE YOUR TIME! Rush this and you will break the mounting clips and have to buy a new one. You might also leave scratches if your too rough. With patience it should eventually 'Pop' off.
Once the cover is removed use a torch, (flashlight), and look down into each of the moulded holes. In the front, centre hole you should see the head of a bolt. This is the only mounting bolt used.
If you wanted you could slacken the bolt and clean the area where it touches the door. This will give you a better fit when you put the mirror back on.
Hold the mirror into position. It has small pegs moulded into it to help you line it up correctly. Re-tighten the bolt. It does not need to be ridiculously tight, just tight enough to stop it coming loose.
The coloured cover should just clip back in place with a Gentle tap with the edge of you hand.

You need to download the schematic for your fuel/pollution control portion of the repair manual for your vehicle. There are dozens of vacuum lines in your engine compartment - some are flexible like rubber while others are rigid plastic and some are even metal.

Best bet is get a factory service repair book, it will show you where each one goes

hook up the pcv valve [big time vacuum leak] same with egr valve check for carbon build up and vacuum leak in lines

if your car is the 3.8 L, place a small mirror between the firewall and the base of the valve cover- not real easy to do- shine a flashlight into the mirror for more light.....move the mirror a little to inspect for vacuum line (s) disconnected....they are a bear to connect but you'll get it, that might not be the problem, but it was on mine...hope this helps you in some way...thanks

hi,
maybe a vacuum leak, put it on a vacuum gauge and the needle should be very steady when Idling and when power testing. that engine develops a huge amount of manifold vacuum and since its getting a few years old, theres vacuum lines everywhere. listen for above average hissing noises and try and decipher where they are. Check your transmission fluid and vacuum lines to the vacuum modulation unit on the transmission if its not a dedicated stick shift. Keep from driving it in an aggressive manner untill its resolved.
good luck

You will see 2 cables going to the carburetor. One will be the throttle cable and the other is the cruise. Follow the cruise cable back to the vacuum pod and you should see the vacuum lines feeding the pod. You can remove the line at the pod and place another line in that sprout and **** on the hose. If the pod contracts its good, if you **** air the pod has a hole and it is defective.
If the pod is not defective remove the vacuum line feeding the pod and check for holes.

A vehicle that old will suffer from brittle and cracked vacuum lines. I would say there is a bad, or several bad lines leaking away vacuum from the intake manifold. Don't forget to check the hose going to the PCV on the valve cover. A vacuum leak will also cause the engine to stumble and miss intermittently when idling.

look for a vacuum pod or tank under the hood. this is most likely where the interior vacuum controls get the vacuum. Does the pod have a line that connects to the intake manifold, or the brake booster? It should., if not find missing vacuum line and repair. Follow the other vacuum line from the pod to the interior, (it is important to find the line going to the interior, as there may be more than one at the pod) is it connected to the controls? it should be. Here is a simplified verbal schematic... vacuum from engine to pod, vacuum from pod to vacuum controlled devices. GM often color codes the interior vacuum lines and that makes them easier to follow under the dash.

Try and check all of your flapper doors and make sure they all have vacuum lines connected to them. These vacuum lines control different flapper doors depending on what setting your A/C and heating system are set at. For instance defrost opens the top flapper doors in your dash, bi-level opens the lower flappers and mid-dash flappers. What I would recommend is first checking each setting. Turn the car on and first run defrost. If both flappers are open then those are ok. Then run regular A/C, make sure the flapper doors are open to all the mid-level vents, if that is ok move on to the lower level setting and check that. This will help you pinpoint what doors are having issues. When you find the one that is not opening or not closing this will be the door and that is the one that does not have the vacuum hose connected. Let me know how everything goes.

Keep me posted - Tech101