Question about 1989 Ford Tempo

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Brake fluid is not coming out when i open the bleeder at the rear wheel on 89 ford tempo

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Good day Robert W73, there should be a metal pipe leading from the master cyclinder to the rear wheels and to the front wheels. Try loosening the pipe on the master cylinder and pump the brakes. It might be that there is an air lock in the master cylinder. By loosening this pipe the air forsing the brake fluid back will be released. As soon as the clean brake fluid comes out of the pipe tighten the pipe again and pump the brakes. Then step on the brake pedal and hold it in, while the brake pedal is depressed open the bleeding nipple and close it again. Repeat this procedure till you have clean brake fluid comming out of the bleeding nipple. Just remember to bleed all the wheels starting at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working your way to the closest wheel.

I hope this helps. If it does not help you might need to replace the seals on the inside of the master cylinder or you will have to replace the master cylinder itself as there might be pit marks on the inside causing the hydraulic fluid to bypass the seals.

Posted on Nov 30, 2010

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1 Answer

No brake fluid reaching rear brakes


Your problem could be several things #1 Are you bleeding the brakes properly , start at passenger side rear wheel. Have someone t sit in drivers seat Have them push brake pedal down ,open bleeder.,close bleeder ,have them let brake pedal up . push pedal down again ,you open bleeder again than close bleeder,have brake pedal up continue doing this until a stream of brake fluid without air comes out.( never pump the brake pedal while bleeding) if this is not working after 30 or more cycles you may need to replace your master cylinder. if this was helpful please leave goodback

Jul 11, 2013 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    2 Answers

    Need to know how to bleed air out of 2006 ford fusion i read there is bleeder valve but dont see one


    Hi,


    Improve the Fixya.com experience for everyone by voting!


    There are four bleeder valves on your vehicle. That is one for each wheel and you'll find them where the flexible hose joins the metal brackets holding the brake assembly together. They look like this:


    [Sorry but Fixya won't provide enough space to include the picture]
    2q==
    I reduced the size and slipped it through.




    The final step in any proper brake repair is to bleed your brake lines. Bleeding removes any air in the lines, which can result in poor braking performance. The primary symptom of air in the brake lines is that your brake pedal feels spongy or soft. This is because air, a gas, can compress while brake fluid, a liquid, is incompressible.

    There are other times you might need to do this. Anytime your brake fluid gets excessively hot can introduce air into the system. You should also use the same technique to completely replace you brake fluid every couple of years. Brake fluid can absorb moisture from the air that, under extreme braking conditions, can boil, creating steam bubbles, which will give you the same symptoms as having air in the line.

    Tools and materials required;

    • Wrench for bleeder valves
    • Short length of clear plastic tubing to fit bleeder valves
    • Turkey baster (I know, it sounds weird, but it comes in handy)
    • Container for old brake fluid (an old soda bottle with cap is ideal)
    • Brake fluid
    • Jack (maybe)
    • Jack stands (maybe)
    • Lug wrench (maybe)
    • Vacuum bleeder (optional)

    The traditional way of bleeding brakes is to use a helper. Anyone who can clearly follow, and repeat back, instructions can provide this assistance. And, they won't get dirty so there's no need for them to even get into their work clothes.

    If you have access to a vacuum bleeder you can do this job by yourself. Many auto parts stores will loan this tool with a small deposit.

    Whichever technique you're going to use many steps remain the same.

    First, locate the bleeder valves on the brakes. These look like small bolts with a nipple for attaching a piece of plastic tubing. They will be on the brake calipers near where the brake hose enters on disk brakes or on the backing plate in a similar location on drum brakes.

    Once you have located the bleeder valves you can determine whether the vehicle must be lifted and the wheels removed to get to them. If you can easily reach the bleeder valves by turning wheels and or reaching under the vehicle adequately to put a wrench on them you may not need to lift the vehicle or remove the wheels.

    To begin bleeding the brakes start with the wheel that is furthest from the master cylinder. Usually that is the passenger rear wheel for almost any vehicle, on American cars that would be the right rear. Bleed the brakes in the order of the distance from the brake master cylinder. If your master cylinder is located, as is usually the case, in front of the driver, you would go from passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front and finally driver front.

    If you have decided that you need to lift the vehicle and remove the wheel, now is the time to lift the rear of the vehicle. Always use proper jack stands to support any lifted vehicle and never get underneath a vehicle that is only supported by the jack. When the wheels are lifted and the vehicle is safely on jack stands remove the rear wheels.

    Open the hood of the vehicle and the brake fluid reservoir. Using the turkey baster, or similar device for sucking the old fluid out of the reservoir, remove as much of the old brake fluid as possible. Refill the reservoir with new fluid and leave the hood and reservoir open.

    If you are bleeding your brakes without a vacuum bleeder you need to get your helper into the drivers seat. The vehicle won't be started so this person doesn't even have to be a licensed driver. In fact, this is a good first job for a young teen to get started working on vehicles.

    Place a length of plastic tubing onto the bleeder valve on the first wheel you will be working on. Tell your helper "Down" to have them press the brake pedal and have them repeat that back when they've done that. With the brake pedal held down you will now slowly open the bleeder valve with your wrench. Fluid will start to flow out the tube. When the fluid flow has slowed or stopped, close the bleeder valve. Tell your helper "Up" and have them release the brake pedal and repeat back when the pedal is up.

    Repeat the "Down" and "Up" sequence until clear fluid with no bubbles comes out of the valve. Every half dozen times, or so, check the level of fluid in the reservoir and bring it back up to full. If the fluid in the reservior gets too low air will get into the system requiring a restart from the beginning.

    If you're using a vacuum bleeder you will attach it to the bleeder valve again using plastic tubing. Open the bleeder valve with your wrench and, following the instructions with the bleeder, pump the fluid from the valve. Every so often close the valve and top off the fluid in the reservoir. It will take a fairly short time to drain the reservoir so check it often. Continue pumping fluid from the line until clear fluid enters the tubing.

    After you have clear fluid coming out of the valve on the first wheel go to the next wheel and repeat. When the back is done, replace the wheels, and lower the rear of the vehicle. Lift the front and bleed those in the same manner as the rear.

    That's all there is to bleeding your brakes. The first time might take as long as a couple of hours but, after you've done the job a couple of times, you can likely complete the whole thing within a half hour or so.

    All the best,

    Ben

    Jun 13, 2011 | Ford Fusion Cars & Trucks

    2 Answers

    Front and rear drum brakes, the pads are ok, but the brake pedal started going to the floor. When I tried to bleed them, the rear bleeder screws broke. So I replaced both wheel cylinders. The rubber...


    OK........as you have stated that you have bled the brakes properly.....was there fluid coming out each bleed nipple as a flowing stream...????

    And did you shut off the bleed nipple half way down stroke....?????

    If this is all ok, then I would be looking at a failed master cylinder.......and what is occurring is the fluid is leaking from the primary to the secondary within the master cylinder !!!!!

    Mar 31, 2011 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Brakes only working on driver side, rear and front, no brakes on passenger side rear and front. fluid good, lines good.


    There only a few things that would cause this that you need to check, first start at the front wheel that doesnt work, have someone applie the brake open the bleeder screw if fluid sprays then caliper is bad or caliper slides are frozen, if no fluid comes out then you have a bad brake hose at that wheel, do the same to rear if fluid comes out of bleeder in rear then wheel cylinders are no good if no fluid comes out then brake hose to rear wheels is no good, make sure to have pedal pressed and repush pedal when checking the rear. hope this helps.

    Aug 28, 2010 | 1994 Plymouth Voyager

    1 Answer

    I have a 93 tempo 2.3 and have recently changed the mastercylinder, I believe it is a diagonal system and I can get brake fluid to the driver rear and pass. front, and not the driver front or pass rear i...


    I would recommend that you make sure the bleeder nuts on these wheels are clear,then I would make sure your brake fluid is full and open both bleeder nuts and let the system gravity bleed until you get fluid to those wheels and then you should be able to bleed normally

    Aug 27, 2010 | 1993 Ford Tempo

    2 Answers

    Replaced frond brake pads, brakes now go all way to floor, tried to bleed but cannt get brake pedal at all. Some fluid coming out of bleeders during bleeding.


    you shouldnt have to bleed anything when just doing brakes,unless you opened the bleeders and this did not have to be done, if this is what was done then bleeding is needed,close all bleeders, have someone in car, pump pedal 3 times and hold down open bleeder tell them to keep preasure on pedal as it goes down then close bleeder and then tell them to pump again and hold do this a few times on each side starting at the right rear wheel then to left rear then right front then left front always keep an eye on fluid level in master cylinder always keep it full, dont let it empty, bleed all wheels,

    Apr 21, 2010 | 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

    1 Answer

    How to flush out brake lines


    open up all of your bleeders.Fill with brake fluid and pump the brakes for a few min. after you have good brake fluid coming out of the brakes close all of your bleeders back. Refill master cylinder, now you want to start with the wheel farthest away from the master, open the bleeder and have someone compress the brakes a couple of time to get the air our, then close the bleeder. Do this with the other wheels, be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level between bleeding on each wheel. Refill if low at each brake. Start at farthest and go to the next farhest until you get done. Your brakes should feel good and tight.

    Jan 27, 2010 | 1965 Ford Mustang

    4 Answers

    How do i bleed the brake system


    First, before you do the bleeding, did you "open" any of the lines? Was there a caliper replaced?

    If no line was opened, you do not need to bleed the brakes.

    If so, please let me know and I will post the bleed procedures for you.

    Why are you thinking about bleeding the brakes? Spongy brake pedal?

    Oct 08, 2009 | 1995 Chrysler Town & Country

    1 Answer

    Replaced rear brakes on 2005 ford freestyle. how do i get them to engage


    Jack up one of your rear wheel and look for the brake fluid bleeder valve. Loosen it up, until the brake fluid
    drips. Have someone at the driver seat, and start pumping the brake pedal. Look at the bleeder valve, until the fluid coming out is solid and close it fast and
    tight. Repeat this procedure at the other wheel. Then, you are done. E-mail us for your comments.

    Oct 02, 2009 | 2005 Ford Freestyle

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