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2003 jeep overland with Quadra Drive:
Front differential (Dana 30): 1,18L (2.5 pts)
Rear differential (Dana 44): 2,24L (4,75 pts)
Both differentials use 75W140 and require 2.5 oz. of friction modifier to prevent locking of the vari lock when making turns.
Probably a problem with pinion shaft endplay. New shims would take care of it, but if you don't know how to work on rear ends, then finding a shop that does suspension work or the dealer would be your best options ( or some guy on craigslist if you want to gamble ) It's really not a difficult job, but it requires know how and you'll need to replace the rear differential fluid ( make sure you get the right stuff it the rear differential is limited slip )
Changing the fluid in your rear differential is a pretty simple process if u are mechanically inclined. First thing you need to do is chalk ur front wheels and get the rear end jacked up and supported on jack stands. If your truck sits high enough and you are comfortable working under it without jacking it up u could probably skip that step. Next have a container to catch the existing fluid when u take the plate off and set it under the differential. Start by removing the bottom screws from the plate bolted to the rear of the differential. Do not remove the bolts on the upper part of the plate, rather loosen them only so that the fluid will drain into ur container and not gush out over the ground. After the fluid is all drained remove the plate completely and clean out remaining fluid being caeful not to deposit any foreign material into differential in the process. Clean off all traces of old gasket from mating surface of plate. Be careful not to gouge the metal. Install new gasket(I have done many times and always just use gasket maker works fine for me) then install plate. After you have it all back together, u should see a bolt that takes a 3/8 extension head on the upper rear off your differential. Remove that bolt and that is where you will add your new fluid. Fill until the fluid level is just to that hole. You can tell if u put your pinky in and can feel the fluid right there. I hope that this helps you to get your fluid done. Let me know if I left anything out and I will be glad to help, thanks.
Transfer case fluid is a GM AutoTrak II fluid, use only this in the transfer case. For front and rear differential use a good quality gear lube 75W-95.
Standard Differential, Rear W/ SGRX......GL-5ALL TEMPS......80W-90 Standard Differential, Front......GL-5 ALL TEMPS......80W-90 CAPACITIES:Differential, Front..........1.5 litersDifferential, With SGRX Rear..........1.9 liters Saginaw rear axle has a removable rear cover without fillplug.Differential, Without SGRX Rear..........1.8 liters
yes u can easy but after u do u might still have the clunk ther may be wear by know but also before refilling try to add an aditive, such as positive traction aditive it might help
If you are picking the product up at a major auto parts store, they will be able to tell you. you will need to know, Make, model, engine size, Air Contd, 2wheel or 4 wheel drive. Once they have this they can tell you what the recommended products are and the capacity of each.
check the differential fluid in the rear differential. if the fluid is low, add fluid and see if the noise is still there, if the fluid level is ok see if the fluid appears metallic, if it is metallic looking or excessively thick it would be a good idea to have the bearings checked out. i am in the process of rebuilding a front differential on a 98 jeep grand cherokee for the same problem. the bearings inside the differential on the carrier and pinion gear were worn out causing a humming noise. if the wear is excessive the gears might also need to be replaced
Definitely replace both axle seals at the same time. It will save you time and money in the long run. When the axles are out be sure check for wear on the axles where the bearings make contact.
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