I'm assuming you mean the injector pump and not the fuel lift pump. I would recommend if the fuel injector pump is proved to be the fault to look at Ebay for a replacement. there are thousands of these engines broken for spares. Fitting the pump can be a bit tricky. If it's the lift pump you need to remove the fuel tank as the pump is fitted on the top side of the tank and is an internal unit, Best done when the tank is empty. Hope this helps as i'm sure your landrover will still be running when a Jeep is in the dump. All the best.
SOURCE: Starts fine when cold, after running dies on idle then wont start
Sounds like the fuel filter is dirty and needing to be changed. It's cheap and easy to swap out.
SOURCE: 1998 land rover discovery won't start
I just expiriance the same problems on my rover so i check it out and found that the engine spark fuse was out. I replaced the said fuse and their you go it started. You can find that fuse under the dashboard in the satellite 1 fuse box. it should be the 3rd one from the right. Good luck buddy hope that helps you out.
SOURCE: 1999 land rover discovery series 1
your problem is from computer or from the electricity of the fuel pump maybe their is no more enough electricity is coming to her
SOURCE: 1997 land rover discovery idles
Hi, this is almost always caused by the Idle Control Valve (IAC), which is located near the firewall, on the passenger side, next to the throttle body. They sell for about $50. On generation 1 cars (1993 to 1997) these are very difficult to remove and install, but it can be done-or you could try to 'SEAFOAM" the intake by running a bottle in the gas tank and taking another bottle and run it through the intake by disconnecting the PVC hose while the engine is running, push the hose (it will **** the Seafoam into the intake) and then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Two bottles will run you about $14. When you start it up, expect alot of smoke-it might even bring the volunteer fire company, but it is the carbon build up being cleaned out of the engine. The engine should be fully warmed up before you do this. After you do this, disconnect the positive battery cable for about 10 minutes-it allows the computer (ECU) to 'relearn' inputs from the various sensors like the IAC. I actually did this on two Generation One marks I have owned, and in both cases, it cured the problem. The high idle in drive and park is tough on the engine and murder (in drive) on the already fragile transmission, not to mention the brutal effect it has on U-joints when you shift into drive at high RPM's, so you want to get it fixed as soon as possible or park it until you can solve it.
SOURCE: hello I have a 1997
Hi, Usually the cause of P0130 is a bad oxygen sensor, however this isn't always the case. If your o2 sensors haven't been replaced and they are old, it's a good bet that the sensor is the problem. But, It could be caused by any of the following:
One of the main problems you have here is with your Coolant temperature sensor is reading a fault. This can cause poor starting and rough running. P0116 and P0118 together would tend to indicate the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
Your O2 sensor is also reading a fault;
P0130 02 sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0441Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
This indicates that a part of the EVAP control system is no longer fuctioning correctly. The EVAP system consists of many parts, including (but not limited to) the gas cap, fuel lines, carbon canister, purge valve, and other hoses.
Whilst this code is set and needs to be looked at eventually it is not a priority in terms of the poor running or starting of the vehicle.
I would start by changing out the coolant temperature sensor as it is likely faulty and one of the main causes of poor running. Next you need to investigate the 02 sensor issue.
Hope this is of some help. Many thanks for using FixYa
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Its just a bad in tank fuel pump ; removal is a bit tedious ; but its not a huge problem. Sometimes we just cut an access to the pump in the back cargo area in the carpet to save time as you must remove the cargo area carpet to get to it which also means removing the side interior panels / bins or folding seats etc. Pump itself is mounted in the tank, you'll see a round jar like ring which seals the pump unit into the fuel tank. Also check your fuel pump relay, its very inexpensive and could be stopping power from getting to the pump, but I doubt it if your truck as over 120k mi.
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