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Posted on Nov 23, 2010
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My temperature guage is not getting to the middle point. It looks as though it is a little cold, even after driving for 1/2 an hour. What could it be?

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  • Master 867 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 23, 2010
Anonymous
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Joined: Jun 14, 2009
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You need to replace the engine block coolant thermostat valve, if it is in good condition you need to get a different degree one, for example, a higher degree number, if you live in a cold climate area. it will open later to allow the coolant in from the radiator. inexpensive repair.

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1991 ford v6 4.0 engine

Sounds like the temperature sensor needs replacement. Guage failure is a probability, but more likely the temp sensor is a problem.
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Coolant level rapidly falling and heaters blowing cold air

You need to get a cool STANT (or similar) pressure
tester... find your LEAK... and fix it... FIRST.

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One of the best investments I ever made.


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My temperature guage stays in the middle, is this ok?

Yes, the temperature gauge should normally stop in the middle, between the cold and hot points on the gauge. When the engine is cold the thermostat will be closed and will keep recirculating the coolant in the engine block until it warms up sufficiently. Then the temperature of the warm coolant will cause the thermostat to open the channel to the radiator to get rid of excess heat, which should stop the coolant from over heating. So the effect of the thermostat keeps the coolant at a fairly stable temperature. When the coolant runs low, it can't transfer enough heat to the radiator and the coolant and engine then over heats. Watch for radiator leaks under your car after you have been driving it. If the coolant goes low again fairly quickly you could have a leak in a hose or the radiator itself.
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1992 olds cutlas 3.3litre a/c clutch comes on and off continuiously weather a/c is called for or not on the dash.engine cold or hot. rad fan also comes on when engine is cold and hot keeps cycling. when...

ok the ac will cycle even if its not on thats the way the factory has it set up.
the fan will also cycle the same way. but the temp of the motor has to do with
the thermostat thats whare i would be looking the thermostat may be bad
when you pick up a new one test it if it says 180 deg. that is when its wide
open check it with a temp guage a house hold type in a pot of boiling water
on your stove i have found 1 out fo 6 would be good go figure.
now the censors. one wire tells you temp guage 2 wires tells you its a
switch for the fan while the motor is running use the same house hold
guage a meat thermomiter will work just fine

i hope this helps you BOB !!!
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Sounds to me like it might be more of a leak than repair/sealer can handle. It never hurts to try though. But if it doesn't work, you might have a little more cleanup to do when you pull the head. It may also be a cracked head as opposed to just a head gasket as well. keep thet in mind. A bad head gasket will cause an overtemp, not the other way around. As for the temp gauge, someone may have worked on it before. sounds like it's hooked up backwards. check it out. if the gauge is bad, it's probably cheaper and easier to get an aftermaket one.
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First thing is the that the coolant temperature sensor is quite different to the temperature sender that is monitored on your dash board. Assuming everything is working fine the thermostat may be stuck open. This would cause coolant to be circulated without restriction and so remaining cooler than usual even when the engine is at running temperature.
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temp guages are just a guide,they vary considrably,and as long as the car runs fine,no warning lights/lack of power all is fine....(depends what you are used to,mine runs at 110 with a guage from 80 to 120.)
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that is your servo motor that controls the cold or hot flap. its abou a 50$ part
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