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Oil light came on, added oil, drove 20 miles, oil light came on. motor not smoking or dripping.where is the oil going. rear engine seal? It has a manual trans and 4 cyl
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Possible cause is several drops of oil are leaking past the valve guide seals when the vehicle just sits. When it is started the oil begins to burn off in the cylinders and after awhile the smoke disappears. I have always recommended cha going the oil to a synthetic and adding an oil additive called Restore. It comes in a cylindrical can in 4, 6 or 8 cylinder size. Put 1 can in with the new oil. Drive the vehicle on the highway for 45 - 60 minutes. I recommend putting on a few hundred Mrs. The additive restores the valve seals preventing the oil from dripping into the cylinders. Have used it on my customers vehicles for 20 years. Saved them a lot of money from replacing the seals.
something is strange here thats for sure ,firstly take thermostat out and put it in a saucepan of water and boil it to see if opens .,check the oil light switch and pull the rubber boot cover back to see if any oil is behind it ??.-You are buying trouble with a car with such a high mileage on it ,never buy anything with more than 50,000 miles or you are just buying someones rubbish
Valve stem seals can cause this problem, but normally only when first started. Oil in the rocker cover seaps through the oil seals into the cylinders and is burnt up on start up. Try a "STOP A LEAK" additive and it may reduce the oil consumption and smoke. I found some on e-bay and it worked on my tired old escort. It even stopped the rattling tappets.
If it's the org. engine it will has over 85,000 miles on it. It's normal to has valve stem seal/oil seal on the head to leak oil into the cyclinder on high mileage engine. The smoke you see is the motor oil drop from the valve stem seals. The oil drops land on the top of the cyclinders and it create black smoke at start up. The inexpensive fix is to start using high mileage oil with seal conditioner. This will help soften the rubber seals and help reduce internal oil leak.
The correct fix is to wait until it's time for a head gasket replacement and let the professional CRC/service the head. Complete head service is the only method to stop this internal oil drip problem.
Yes a crappy PVC valve can cause some of your problems but not necessarily all of them, they are cheap, I always replace it to start. The air cleaner housing being full of oil is like how the oil is being consumed. In addition to a PVC valve, there may also be a blow-by hose running into the housing. check to see what other hoses go into the housing & which ones have oil coming from them. I'm not familiar with the "Motor Honey" you mentioned but I rarely add additives to my Engine oil, especially if they are thickeners. The only stuff I recommend is a Quaker state or similar "High Mileage Oil". These semi-synthetic oils have additives to swell old rubber & cork seals in older engines and can help reduce oil consumption & leakage. Again, it may not be a total solution, but it couldn't hurt to drain out all of the existing oil & replace with a high mileage type & also change the filter at the same time. Never mix it with other oils, despite the manufacturer telling you it may be safe to do so.
Is it white,black or blue smoke?
If it's the org. engine it will has over 200,000 miles on it. It's normal to has the valve stem seal/oil seal on the head to leak oil into the cyclinder. The smoke you see is the motor oil drop from the seals. It land on the top of the cyclinders and it create black smoke at start up. The inexpensive fix is to start using high mileage oil with seal conditioner. This will help soften the rubber seals and help reduce internal oil leak. The correct fix is to wait until it's time for a head gasket replacement and let the professional to service the head. Complete head service is the only method to stop this internal oil drip problem.
I will monitor the oil and coolant level.
White smoke AFTER warm up is the first sign of blown headgasket.
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