Install wheel bearings for 1998 dodge ram 1500

Brake Rotor (Disc) - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts.
   
2. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support on jackstands.
   
3. Remove the wheel and tire.
   
4. Remove the brake caliper assembly as described earlier in this section, but do not disconnect the brake hose.
   
5. Suspend the caliper assembly by a piece of wire. Do not allow it to hang by the brake hose.
   
6. Follow the procedure given under wheel bearing removal in Suspension and Steering for models with manual and automatic locking hubs (lines down).

New rotor assemblies come protected with an anti-rust coating which should be removed with denatured alcohol or degreaser. New hubs must be packed with EP wheel bearing grease.

1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Front Wheel Bearings - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figure 1 )

Fig. 1: Inspect the bearings for abnormal wear and/or damage

With Manual Locking Hubs
(see Figures 2 through 17)

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
   
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   
3. Remove the retainer washers from the lug nut studs and remove the manual locking hub assembly from the spindle.
   
4. Remove the snapring and spacer from the end of the spindle shaft.
   
5. Remove the outer wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
   
6. Remove the locknut washer from the spindle.
   
7. Remove the inner wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
   
8. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Remove the hub and rotor from the spindle.
   
9. Using seal removal tool 1175-AC or equivalent remove and discard the grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
   
10. Clean the inner and outer bearing assemblies in solvent. Inspect the bearings and the cones for wear and damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
    
11. If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C and tool T77F-1102-A or equivalent.
    
12. Wipe the old grease from the spindle. Check the spindle for excessive wear or damage. Replace defective parts, as required.

Fig. 2: Before beginning the wheel bearing removal, and after the outer hub is removed, wipe off any excess grease

Fig. 3: After the grease is wiped off, remove the axle shaft snapring ...

Fig. 4: ... then pull the splined spacer from the axle shaft end

Fig. 5: Use a 4 pronged socket to loosen the outer wheel bearing locknut ...

Fig. 6: ... then remove the outer locknut

Fig. 7: Remove the lockwasher from behind the outer locknut ...

Fig. 8: ... then loosen and remove the inner locknut-note the lockwasher engagement pin (arrow)

Fig. 9: While pushing inwards on the rotor/hub assembly, remove the outer wheel bearing ...

Fig. 10: ... then pull the rotor/hub assembly from the spindle, taking care not to scratch the bearing cups in the hub

Fig. 11: Pry out the grease seal on the back of the rotor/hub assembly ...

Fig. 12: ... then remove the inner wheel bearing. Thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts for wear or damage

continue...

What are you torquing the nut to? Bearing are well packed with grease?

Jack up your Dodge Ram. Block the wheels to keep it from rolling as you work. Get started by removing the first tire and wheel assembly. Remove the hub extension and the brake caliper as well as the caliper adapter.

Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, washer and outer wheel bearing. Now, pull the old rotor off of the spindle. Clean the area with a damp cloth to remove any debris. Pack the wheel bearings with grease.

Install the new rotor and hub onto the spindle. Replace the outer wheel bearing, washer, and then the retaining nut. Torque the nut to 30 to 40 ft. lbs. while rotating the hub and rotor. Then tighten the nut and install the nut lock and a new cotter pin.

Clean the grease cap and then coat it with new wheel bearing grease and replace the cap. Put the caliper adapter back into place and then tighten the two mounting bolts with a torque wrench. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

Repeat this process for each additional rotor and then lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts and test drive your Dodge Ram to make sure that the installation was successful.

If I've helped, please vote!

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50–80 ft. lbs. (68–108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
   
2. Remove the wheels.
   
3. Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
   
4. Remove the hub grease cap.
   
5. Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
   
6. Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
   
7. Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
   
8. Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
   
9. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
   
10. Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
    

To install:

1. Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
   
2. If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
   

If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.

1. Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
   
2. Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
   
3. Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
   

Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.

1. Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
   
2. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
   
3. Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
   
4. Install the new cotter pin.
   
5. Install hub grease cap.
   
6. Install brake drum or disc.
   
7. Install the wheels.
   
8. Lower the vehicle.
   

buy an older truck to answer question all newer model vehicles have gone to a hub/flange bearing assembly these bearing setups handle loads without or very minimum variance, when you go into a cornering situation these bearing setups give you a steady and consistent track thus a better handling vehicle now instead of cleaning and repacing tose old cone and race style bearings you just unbolt hub assembly and any related abs sensors and bolt on new

i have a 83 dodge w150 it has 14 in of lift on 39.5 super swampers and im goin threw wheel bearings every 3 weeks any solutions ? thanks

Sorry this is a very difficult job and you will need special tools,take my advice and take it to your local spanner man

check the threads on the spindle and make sure that they are in good shape or you will have to replacethe spindle to rectify this, if they are fine then I would get new castle nuts as this is definently why you are going through wheel bearings. When you tighten the castle nut you should be sure to tighten it up tight then back it off a quarter turn so the wheel turns. And remember to pack your bearings with wheel bearing grease before you install them then add a little more grease in the hub.

Yes those are bolts. You remove those from the back side. This takes a while sometimes. If you can't get them by reverse alone, try hitting them with impact in forward for a hit or two to brake it loose a little. If the new hub comes with new bolts, don't be afarid to brake them. PS, after those bolts are removed, don't forget to remove the nut on the axle shaft. You may also need to use an air hammer to help remove old hub after bolts are removed.