My 01 sonata won't start at all...doesn't appear to be getting any fuel from the fuel pump. we have replaced the timing belt, tension pullies, water pump, crank sensor, and fuel pump....it starts with starting fluid and runs until that burns off....any ideas

Watch the video. Also this engine has a timing belt not chain. You must replace the pulleys, the timing belt and the water pump when doing this service
Hyundai Timing Belt

COULD BE A BAD BEARING IN THE IDLER PULLY OR THE TENSIONER ON THE TIMING BELT OR THE SERPENTINE BELT. IF ITS A SQUEEL IT MAY BE SOME COOLANT GOT ON THE SERPENTINE BELT. TRY TO WASH THE BELT WITH WATER AND LET DRY COMPLETELY. IF NOISE REMAINS RETURN TO THE SHOP THAT DID THE WORK.

YOU NEED A CHILTON REPAIR MANUAL.BECAUSE YOU NEED SPANNER WRENCH AND A LIST OF INSTRUCTION HOW TO REMOVE AND INSTALL THE TIMING BELT.I BEEN A MECHANIC FOR 23 YEARS I NEVER TACKLE ANY TIMING BELTS OR CHAINS WITH OUT A REPAIR MANUAL.REPAIR MANUAL IS A MECHANIC ROAD MAP LOST WITH OUT IT.SOUND LIKE YOU HAVE PROBLEMS WITH TIMING BELT TENSIONER LOOSEN THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER BOLT.INSTALL TIMING BELT ON THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET AND WHILE KEEPING THE BELT TIGHT ON THE TENSION SIDE ( RIGHT SIDE ) INSTALL THE BELT ON THE FRONT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET.INSTALL THE BELT ON THE WATER PUMP PULLEY THEN THE REAR CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND THE TENSIONER.ROTATE THE FRONT CAMSHAFT COUNTERCLOCKWISE TO TENSION THE BELT BETWEEN THE FRONT CAMSHAFT AND THE CRANKSHAFT.IF THE TIMING MARKS BECAME MISALIGNED REPEAT THE PROCEDURE.INSTALL THE CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET FLANGE.LOOSEN THE TENSIONER BOLT AND ALLOW THE SPRING TO TENSION THE BELT.TURN THE CRANKSHAFT 2 FULL TURNS IN THE CLOCKWISE DIRECTION ONLY UNTIL THE TIMING MARKS ALIGN AGAIN.NOW THAT THE BOLT IS PROPERLY TENSIONED TORQUE THE TENSIONER LOCK BOLT TO 21 FT LBS.

It sounds like you have a loose or worn alternator belt
(same belt drives water pump) That would explain the
screeching noise and the battery light on when wet.
Check the belts for tension and wear on the inside of
the belts(cracks or pieces missing) if you're going to
change the belt or belts yourself, thats the best time
to check the pullys and make sure they are tight and
spin true. Hope this helps.

if the belt is still on the dot on the camshaft should line up onthe 12 oclock if you look close there is a mark behind it the crank mark is about 10 or 11 oclock you will see the marks make sure no1 is at top dead center if all this is good look to the left buy the camshaft and there is another pully on the left under the camshaft this is the adjust pully to take the slack out lossen it and push it till the slack come out ok and yes it is a interference motor hope this helps

Disconnect battery earth lead. Do not turn crankshaft or camshaft whn timing beld removed. Remove spark plugs to ease turning engine. Turn engine in normal direction of rotation (unless otherwise stated) Do not turn engine via camshaft or other sprockets. Observe all tightening torques. Remove engine, remve RH engine mounting. Remove auxiliary drive belts, water pump pulley, crankshaft pulley, timing belt upper cover, timing belt lower cover. Turn crankshaft clockwise to TDC on No. 1 cylinder, slacken tensioner bolts 5 & 6. Move tensioner away from belt and lightly tighten bolts. Remove timing belt. Remove water pump and replace with new one. Suggest to replace cambelt as well.
Installation
Ensure timing marks aligned3 & 4. Fit timing belt in anti-clockwise direction, standing at crankshaft sprocket. Ensure belt is taut between sprockets on non-tensioned side. Slacken tensioner bolt 5. slacken tensioner bolt 6. Allow tensioner to operate. Tighten tensioner bolt 6. Tighten tensioner bolt 5. Turn crankshaft on turn clockwise. Ensure crankshaft sprocket timing marks aligned 4.
Slacken tensioner bolt 5. Slacken tensioner bolt 6. Allow tensioner to operate. Tighten tensioner 6. Tighten torque: 20 - 26 Nm. Tighten tensioner bolt 5. tighten torque: 20 - 26 Nm. Apply thumb pressure to belt at middle. Approximately 5kg. Belt should deflect to 1/4 of tensioner bolt head width 7. Belt tention can also be set using burroghs (BT-33-73F) tension gauge 10 at middle. Turn crankshaft 90 ° anti clockwise. Check belt tension is 9.5 16,5kg (engine must be cold). Install components in reverse order of removal. Fit cranckshaft pully. Tighten crankshaft pully bolts 8. G4-J: Tightening torque: 12-15Nm.
G4-N/G4-k: Tightening torque: 10-12Nm
G4EA: Tighten crankshaft pully bolt 9. Tighten torque: 140-150Nm.

Weak belt tensioners were very common in these trucks to get weak and stick, causing the belt to be thrown because of loss of tension.

Could be several things. WHICH ENGINE?.. 4 cylinder (has three belts, power steering/water pump, alternator & A/C compressor, one tensioner pully A/C compressor), The V6 2.7 (has only one belt, 1 Idler pully and 1 tensioner pully), the V6 3.5 has two belts - A/C/alternator, and power steering - there are two tensioner pullys). Noises can be caused by the belt(s) themselves, pullys, bearings, pully bearings, water pump shaft bearings (or belts/pullys rubbing up against something). Let's not forget that there is also belt(s) behind the Timing Belt cover as well as pullys and bearings associated with the timing system. You could start by removing one accy drive belt at a time (alternator, water pump, compressor, power steering, etc) to see whether or not the noise goes away in each case. If after each case, you discover the noise is still there, it's probably behind the timing belt cover (idler/tensioner pully, water pump shaft bearing, crankshaft bearing, etc.). Good Luck

yes it is and u may need vavle and valve guides

Which engine? 4 cylinder (2.4 lit) or V6 (2.7 lit)? Two different procedures as well as different belts. The 4 cylinder also has a balance belt. See next image:

Here's the 2.7 V6 belt:


The replacement procedure is nearly the same at the start (removing, accy drive belts, pullys, support engine & remove front engine mount, remove T.B covers, disconnect Cam Position Sensor & Crank Position Sensor connectors, etc.). When you get to this point on the V6, you also have to remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the engine (4 14mm bolts, also a 12mm bolt which bolts the dipstick tube to the side of it) Put crank shaft at TDC (top dead center w/ALL timing marks aligned) remove hydraulic tensioner (2 12 mm bolts), then remove the belt. You'll need to recompress the hydraulic (auto) tensioner in a vise and insert a retaining pin through the pin-holes at the top (through the tensioner piston) to keep it compressed when you reinstall it. Otherwise, you won't be able to install it. Assembly is reverse order of dissassembly. Inspect your pullys while you're in there (check for pully bearing noise, leaking grease, smooth rotation, also the water pump pully, etc.) Replace components as needed. Careful not to damage Crankshaft Position Sensor wire harness.

The 4 Cylinder is quite different. You not only change the timing belt, but also the countershaft (balance) belt, which is behind the crank position sensor blade. IMPORTANT: ALL TIMING MARKS ALIGNED BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING) There are two (2) counter-shafts (balance shafts). one driven by the timing belt, the other by the crankshaft sprocket behind the timing belt sprocket at the front of the crankshaft.