Trying to bleed brakes on a 93 cougar, but cannot loosen bleeder on both right side. I have tried penetrating oil and heating up bleeders. it is at the point of stripping. how can I remove them with out breaking or stripping further?

NEVER use heat on caliper bleeders as it can destroy the caliper piston seal .

Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.


For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.

1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   
   

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. Tighten the line connection(s).
2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left rear
   3. Right front
   4. Left front
   
   
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
   2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
   3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.
   
   

During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.

1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.

1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.

1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Brush the bleeders with DOT 3 Brake fluid and let soak in for 24 hours, or so.
The Brake fluid should free up the rust.

Also, could try to heat it up a little with a propane or Mapp gas torch, or Oxy Acetylene (ideally), to free up the bleeder screw.

Replace if necessary.

THE MASTER CYLINDER NEED TO BE BLED FIRST.BEFORE PUTTING ON THE CAR.TO MANUAL BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM.YOU NEED 2 PEOPLE TO DO A BETTER JOB.YOU FIRST BLEED THE LEFT REAR RIGHT REAR LEFT FRONT AND RIGHT FRONT. WHEN YOU BLEED THE BRAKES.HAVE THE HELPER PUMP BRAKES 3 PUMPS.AND HOLD BRAKE PEDAL IN.YOU NEED A CLEAR BLEEDER HOSE IN A CLEAR BOTTLE HALF WITH CLEAN BRAKE FLUID. WITH BLEEDER HOSE ON BLEEDER SCREW AND OTHER END BLEEDER HOSE IN BOTTLE OF BRAKE FLUID.WHILE HELPER PUMP BRAKE PEDAL HOLD IT IN OPEN BLEEDER SCREW 1/4 TURN ALLOWING AIR BUBBLES LEAVE THE BRAKE SYSTEM.CLOSE THE BLEEDER SCREW BEFORE BRAKE PEDAL RELEASE.HAVE HELPER PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 3 TIMES. WITH PEDAL HELD DOWN OPEN BLEEDER SCREW GETTING AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM.WHEN YOU SEE SOLID FLUID COMING OUT OF BLEEDER HOSE THE AIR IS OUT THE BRAKE SYSTEM.DONT DRIVE CAR ON HIGHWAY IF YOU STILL CANT GET SOLID BRAKES. HAVE CAR TOWED IN TO BE PRESSURE BLEED.

If you are referring to the brake bleeder valve, it is located on the wheel cylinders on the backing plate of the brakes for the drum brakes. Follow the brake lines to this bleeder valve. However, it might be rusty and must be soaked in penetrating oil or brake fluid before trying to turn it.

If you are referring to the air ride suspension, look at the rear axle area and look for a lever that controls the 'air bleed' for the air shocks. Follow the small (in diameter) plastic air lines from either of the rear shocks to the bleeder valve.

you shouldnt have to bleed them unless they have been worked on recently, i guess the first thing to do is fill the master cylinder, park the truck somewhere flat and clean, pump the heck out of the breaks then move the truck and look for puddles, it really sounds as if there is a leak somewhere in the hydrolic system.

Only two options...remove the wheel cylinder asd carefully drill out the bleeder screw without damaging the threads or seat, or...replace the wheel cylinder (they aren't all that expensive). Since the line enters the cylinder lower that the bleeder, it is impossible to get the air out of there unless you turn the car upside down!!! No...don't try that!!!

The bleeder screws are set? Well, a little heat sometimes if penetrating oil doesn't work. Sometimes, a small socket that rests on the bleeder can be tapped to "shock" the fitting to loosen it. Yes, it sucks if they break off.

Try hitting the area around the bleeder with a hammer .. it may help .. bleeders are tough if they don't go after being heated/lubed. You could try loosening the line into the caliper .. that may allow enough of a bleed, banking on the fact that there is still brake fluid in that caliper .. otherwise you may end up replacing that caliper.

Yes, you can use speed bleeder, but my concern is (I haven't used the product, but it does sound great) you have to remove the original bleeders to install these. Worst case scenario is breaking a bleeder off (which you can do just by attempting to loosen it). In my opinion, it's still best to have 2 people do it, one to pump the brakes (and YES the car should be running) and the other to bleed the brakes. If you use speed bleeder, you still need someone to watch to see when all the air is out, and only fluid is flowing. So, nice to have the speed bleeders, but if you didn't buy them yet, save the money. When will you have to bleed the brakes again? Probably not for a VERY long time, if ever. Spray the bleeders w/ some penetrating oil, wd-40, or similar type lubricant so they won't break off. If you can let it sit overnight, spraying several times, that should help. Let me know your progress! countrycurt0 If you are working inside, leave garage doors open because of exhaust fumes.