Cold start valve problem

Sounds like too much fuel, could be a leaking injector, faulty pressure regulator, or blockage of air intake. Did you replace the injectors and pressure regulator when you worked on the throttle body ? Can you see normal fuel spray on both injectors when the engine is running ?

if I'm reading this right...
... the engine starts and dies within a few seconds.
... you jumpered the fuel pump test connector and it will keep running.
... you smell fuel after trying to re-start when it dies.

Disconnect the plug to the cold start injector. Even if you have an issue with the engine running then dying after a few seconds after doing this, if you don't smell fuel after disconnecting the cold start injector and try to restart it, the cold start time injector time switch may be failing.

Buy a can of starting fluid and have someone start the engine then spray short bursts of the fluid around all the intake fittings. If spraying the fluid in any particular area keeps the engine running, I'd start looking for leaks around that area.


It does sound like an AFM or COR issue considering it dies after a few seconds, but the fuel smell when trying to restart the engine may be a separate issue that needs corrected / isolated first.it will keep running.

... you smell fuel after trying to re-start when it dies.


Disconnect the plug to the cold start injector. Even if you have an issue with the engine running then dying after a few seconds after doing this, if you don't smell fuel after disconnecting the cold start injector and try to restart it, the cold start time injector time switch may be failing.


Buy a can of starting fluid and have someone start the engine then spray short bursts of the fluid around all the intake fittings. If spraying the fluid in any particular area keeps the engine running, I'd start looking for leaks around that area.


It does sound like an AFM or COR issue considering it dies after a few seconds, but the fuel smell when trying to restart the engine may be a separate issue that needs corrected / isolated first.

what is the fuel pressure with key on and engine off? since you mentioned spider injector assembly it has to be a vortec engine that requires 55psi to open the poppet valve in the injectors just to start.

Safer is to use 'carburetor cleaner' which is also flammable but a little less dangerous than using gasoline.After sitting a long time, our modern gasoline gets tired; never allow something to sit so long without adding some 'fuel stabilizer.'If possible with your car, I would drain (siphon) the tired gas out and replace it with a few gallons of fresh.
Really tough starting problems can also be overcome with 'starting fluid' which is pure ether and very flammable.Any of these may require the removal of the engine air filter so the liquid gets into the intake manifold.
Stale gasoline can also gum up the fuel injectors which may have to be removed for service if none of the fluids causes the engine to fire.

YOU PROBABLY HAVE BAD SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES.YOU NEED TO CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS AND CHANGE FUEL FILTER.THIS LITTLE TUNE UP SHOULD HELP.ANY TIME YOU SPRAY ETHER DOWN AIR INTAKE TO GET ENGINE STARTED YOUR ENGINE NOT GETTING ENOUGH FUEL OR SPARK TO COLD START.YOU NEED RICH FUEL MIXTURE ON COLD ENGINE START UP.AS ENGINE WARMS UP FUEL MIXTURE HAS TO BE LEAN.

That sounds like a fuel pump problem and you can test that by pulling a vacuum line off from the intake manifold and spray a lot of carburetor spray or brake cleaner in a spray can into the intake manifold through the open vacuum line port (it has to say "extremely flammable" on the can to work and the non-flammable will not work for this test) and then replace the vacuum line and see if the engine will start and run for a few seconds on the spray.

If the engine does start and run then the problem will most likely be the fuel pump, however a faulty ignition module inside of the distributor could keep the fuel pump from running or the fuel injectors from firing and if there is good fuel pressure in the fuel rail, (there should be a schrader valve in the fuel rail for testing) and there is spark out to the spark plugs but the engine still will not start, then the ignition module inside of the distributor would be the likely suspect of the problem.

If the engine does not start then you will need to determine why there is no spark to the spark plugs, and most likely the problem will be the ignition coil or the ignition module inside of the distributor, or there could also be a problem with the ECM (Engine Control Module).

try this.
To correct this problem I want you to get a can of intake cleaner (ABOUT $5.00) from any local auto parts store like NAPA or Carquest, do not use carburetor spray, intake cleaner only or u will damage the Teflon coating inside the throttle valve and air bypass valve, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

If its the Carburetor system then Cleaning with carburetor spray or solvent may help clean the dirt sticking to the unit problem... injected engines, a separate "cold start" injector is used to spray additional fuel into the intake manifold when a cold engine is first started. If this injector is not working, the engine can be hard to start...

You have a cold start injector. It basically primes the fuel into the engine.
It`s like the old type `choke` systems.
Get it checked at an auto electricians.

There are 3 things that cause this, 1st and most common is a dirty idle speed control valve, 2nd is carbon on the back of the intake valves, last but not least is the wrong octane of fuel, if it requires 89 Octane and 91 or 92 is used the engine will stall code.

To clean the dirty idle control valve follow this procedure:
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.