Check engine light is on. when i drive, it loses power and the check engine light flashes. then it goes back to a solid check engine light with restored power. i keep my foot on the accelator but engine doesn't rev up or anything

I would take it to a mechanic who knows what to do.
Personally, I would replace the coil pack that is giving trouble and if the spark plugs have done 60000 miles, replace them for peace of mind.
You should get a misfire code, cylinder 1 would be P0301, cylinder 2 would be P0302 etc.

Take this to an auto parts store and have the codes read. Then you will know exactly what the problem is. And just an FYI, if the check engine light is flashing, you should stop driving it as the computer believes that the problem can damage the vehicle. If the check engine light is on solid and not flashing, this is a less serious problem, but still should be looked at.

Can't believe some the lame answers here. Anyone having this issue check the PCV hose where it attaches too the air intake, the rubber breaks down and develops a leak. But these engines also have wiring issues that causes crankshaft sensor to fail at startup or under 1000 rpms causing the computer to shoot a code and trigger the engine light. I have these issue cause the above problem.

Hi Marlene:
When the light comes on, one or more diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) are stored in the engine control module. These DTCs remain even if the light goes out. To address a Check Engine Light problem, the DTCs are retrieved and the appropriate troubleshooting information is followed in order to determine the problem.

The Four Most Common Check Engine Light Scenarios and What to Do:
* The Check Engine Light turns on and off or flickers.
If the Check Engine Light comes on in the city but goes off on the freeway, then the fault is present during city driving conditions. Pay attention to whether or not the vehicle runs or drives any differently when the Check Engine Light illuminates. If vehicle performance does change, drive the car as little as possible and take it to be checked by a service professional as soon as possible. If there is no change in vehicle performance, you can drive home, but have it inspected as soon as possible. In this condition, you run a risk of the vehicle dying or not starting.

* The Check Engine Light comes on and stays on.
If the Check Engine Light illuminates constantly during driving with no noticeable driving or performance problems, there is a permanent fault in the emission control system. When this happens, the computer that controls the emission system usually has a backup program that runs while the fault is present. (These backup programs are often referred to as "limp home" mode programs.) You should get the vehicle serviced as soon as possible, but in most cases, the vehicle will continue to operate, though you run a risk of it dying or not starting.

* The Check Engine Light illuminates, stays on, and there are performance problems.
This means that a vital component of your emission control and engine management system has a serious problem. It usually involves a component or system needed for the vehicle to run at all. In most cases, drive the vehicle as little as possible. In many cases, the vehicle is not safe to drive at all -it could stop or stall out at any moment. It is best to pull over to a safe place and have the vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for a thorough inspection and repair.

* The Check Engine Light light comes on and blinks in a steady pattern while driving.
Don't confuse this steady pulsing of the Check Engine Light light (usually one or more flashes per second) with a flicker (see above). The Check Engine Light may stay on steadily or it may flash when the vehicle is accelerated. This is very serious. There is a severe failure of the emission control system that is causing the engine to misfire to the point that the catalytic converter is damaged each time the Check Engine Light flashes. It may mean that the catalytic converter is overheating to the point that it will glow red or, in extreme cases, start a fire on the underside of the vehicle. Immediately pull over to a safe place and have your vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for repair. Vehicles can be severely damaged and even destroyed by fire if this condition is ignored for too long.

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Hello I have a 2007 Magnum 2.7L that has code p0302 cylinder#2 misfire seems to have coolant loss but can find no leaks. Recently had another code p0300, so both are active check engine light started flashing but stop and stayed solid. Not driving it. Replaced spark plugs should I replace coils? Any feedback please.

any time the check engine light is flashing it is the on-board computer telling you that the engine is misfiring, i think i would take it back to whom done the tune-up sounds like they may have cracked a spark plug or damaged a plug wire when they tuned it up.

do a compression test then do a combustion pressure test if all good computer is questionable

You need to have it scanned it had a misfire. Having it scanned should tell you what cylinder.

Did you check earth connection of electric system?

Ok that is normal when the light comes on the car goes into fail safe and no sensors are controling fuel managment its all predetermined by the pcm and its software programing. The stalling i have seen many many 92 acc. Remove egr valve and check the intake is not solid pluged with carbon causing back pressre popping the egr on on decel. If it is plugged clean it good or replace intake manifold.