I am going to replace real rotor and break pads of 95 Saturn, past owner say caliber is broken also, Any problems on this and would assume I must also do something with system afterwards? [email protected]

Click here to remove back brake pads.Click here to remove back rotors.Click here to remove caliber.

See if there is a distribution block near the master cylinder, if so bleed it see if that fixes it if not you may need to replace the ditribution block.

Hi, the problem is most likely due to warped rotors on your front disc brakes. I had a similar problem on my 1999 Grand Am. If that's the case you should replace the rotors and check the calibers and pads to ensure they are not in bad shape. If the rotors are unevenly wearing they should be replaced and if your caliber pistons or boot looks damaged then the calibers may need replacing. Ensure that the front pads have the proper lubricant where they slide in the caliber otherwise they can bind and cause your rotors to warp again because of excessive heat. Hope that helps you out.

Hi, I assume you are going to replace them?
Firstly spray penetrating fluid around the hub which it fits on and around the studs where they
stick through the rotor.
Using a big hammer ( this is why i hope you are replacing the rotors) strike the surface of the
rotor between the wheel studs going from side to side across the diameter.
Usually the shock treatment will loosen them off.
You can also strike the rotor on the pad surface again going side to side
Be carefull and wear glasses as the cast iron will break off
I hpe i`ve helped you with this problem good luck
John ( South Wales UK )

Heres what you will need to do this type of job. First you will need a rachet and metric sockets with an extention if available. Also you will need somthing to press the caliber piston back into place a special tool or some kind of press would work . A plastic auto hammer to knock the rotors loose, somtimes they can be difficult to remove. Pliers would be needed as well as a screw driver to help mount the caliber or pads back into place. One thing to keep in mind is that if you indeed are replacing the rear rotors, it is recommended to get new pads as well. This is for the reason that old pads will cause break sqealing since they are not surfaced perfectly straight for the new rotor. Step one will be to get the caliber of the vehicle so if there is a medal clip on one of the studs just use the pliers to rip it off. Then use the rachet to remove two bolts holding the caliber. After you remove those bolts, there should be another two bolts holding the caliber bracket as well, do the same procedure in removing those. IMPORTANT do not let the caliber hang by the brake cable, put it on a stand or in a location where it is not free fall hanging. Now you should just have the rotor left, try pulling on it to see if it breaks loose, if not then use your plastic hammer to bang in the back of the rotor and knock it loose that way. If I remember correclty those rear rotors will have brake shoes underneath. Do not wory about those they are there for your emergency brakes. Now put the new rotor on and make sure it is securley installed on the wheel hub. Install you'r bracket first, then begine to install your caliber back into place. NOTE the caliber may not install to easy onto the rotor for the reason that you will need to compress the piston inside with either the special tool or some type of press. If you compress it and you hear brake fluid dripping down, it is nothing to worry about, its just the fluid being pushed back by pressure. Install the caliber and pads the same way as removal paying close attention to the other side if your not sure of how the originally were installed. When all this is finished look up brake bleading on YOUTUBE.com to accurately bleed your brakes and remove any air inside that may cause spongy or moister inside your brake lines.

Hope this Helps!

I'm sorry to disagree with your mechanic,but it sounds to me like your rotors are warped.I would go ahead and replace rotors and pads with an estamated 5k sounds like they are thin.

remove the two caliber bolts that hold it to the bracket,use a screw driver to put inside inspection hole and pull towards outside of car,now you can pull it off,pop the pads out ,put the new ones in,take a large pair of water pump pliers and compress the caliber piston back in the caliber the whole way,put caliber back on reinstall bolts and then do the other side,before starting car pump brake pedal back up this will push the piston back out against pads then you will have a full pedal again,

Raise and secure on stands after breaking loose the lug nuts and parking brake on for front pads.. Remove wheels and spread old pads back to push cylinders back in their bores on calibers to allow for thickness of new pads. Remove the 2 sliding claiber retaining bolts and rotate caliber out of mount and secure with wire, boungie cord, or rope to take weight of caliber brake hose. Remove old pads, install new, and reassemble in reverse order. Lugs on alloy wheel should be torgued to 95 foot lbs. Block front wheels, release parking brake,and do the back ones the same way. After completing, pump brake pedal slowly several times to seat new pads. If you move the MPV without pumping first, you will have no brakes to stop. If brake fluid level is high in master cylinder, you will need to take some out first to make room for returning fluid from caliber pistons being returned to their bores prior to any brake work. Rotors should be replaced or turned if scored or warped to have better clapping of pads to rotor surface.

It's sad that the dealer cannot or will not solve this problem. Sounds like they want to keep having you spend money on pads and rotors in stead of fixing the problem. I would look for a shop that has better experience. It doesn't have to be a dealer shop to find the best people.
Well, in most cases like this, the caliber 80% to blame. 20% is the hardware ( springs and clips ). The hardware helps keep the shoes in place and helps relieve pressure/sticking when brakes are not in use.
The best solution would be to replace calibers and hardware on both sides. Doing both sides prevent from one side being stronger or weaker than the other. Therefore, one side will not wear out faster than the other.

Sounds like the brake pads is still slightly making contact with the rotor. Replace pads and / or rotor.

Could be that the pads are wore out and are just scraping the rotor. Definately replace pads AND rotor.

Could be that the pads have broken their clips and are flopping around.

Could be a rock stuck in the overall brake assembly.