Hi! As a first course of action please replace the ignition coil or the igniter as you call it. This will surely give you spark. Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa!
How did you test the Coil? with a test light see if the positive side of the low tension side of the coil is hot (12 volts with the key on) The other sde should be hot too till you crank it and the negitive side should flash the test light. if it doesn't remove the negitve wire from the coil and connect it to the test light and the other side of the test light to the positve with the coil unhooked the light should blink when cranking. if it does the coil is shorted and you need a new one. if it doesn't then the module is bad and on this car there is a ingtion power transsister. The distrubutor pickup is not out of the question either as the pickup makes the transsiter work. with the test light stil hooked up that did'nt flash but has 12 volts on the one wire, unplug the distrubuter ad use the test light to see if any of the wires come hot with the key on. If not your looking for an ingtion switch or fuse problem. he coil gets it's positve power from the same place so your looking for a broken wire if the coil is hot. You should be finding your problem following this way and the transsistor also has a wire thats hot with the key on with all the other wires connected on the coil and the dist. A rebuilt distbutor is cheaper than rebuilding your distbuter and and parts sore is going to have the distrubuter. the module is in the distbutor as is the pickup.
The distrubutor that I looked up was 210 and it said it had the two pickups but no module I'd be looking in the junkyard and even ebay before I'd jump on this way theirs other things that can be wroung Did you find the power? Test light only costs 5 bucks a dollar for a cheap one test for power and fuses first before you go buyng something expensive.
In order to correctly fix this car you Must use a test light and a volt-Ohm meter to correctly find the problem. The coil. Has a two wire electrical connector ( this is the high failure rate part ) the coil wire comes out of the end of it. Withevery thing connected with the coil wire removed from the cap and a spark plug connected to the end of the coil wire laying on ground. ( metal engine part ) Crank with the key to check for spark. If it does the cap or rotor are bad as the coil is firing. if you see spark reconnect the coil wire to the cap and remove a wire from the engine plug put a plug in the end of it and lay it on engine ground and crank again. If it sparks it's not your no start problem. No spark at the coil wire then your back to the two wire connector that plugs into the coil. with it unpluged from the coil. connect the test light to ground and probe the white with the blue wire and it should be 12 volts with the key on. ( lights the test light brightly) ( now if yor battery is less thean 10 volts nothing s going to work anyway.) The ingitor is the four wire connector right next to the coil it also has this white with blue tracer wire and it should be hot too. If its not the keys not on ( or isbad and won't connect. If it's cold then your looking at the fuses right at the battery cable. ( use the test light. a fuse can look good and be bad) then there's two more fuses in the under dash. use the test light as the fuse can be good but the power hasn't come though the ingtion switch to light the light. It this using the test light is toohard then you need to hire the work done.
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It sounds like the ignition switch inside the steering column is not sending power to the coil.
Ignition coils can test fine with an ohm meter, but still be defective. How about the coil wire? This could also prevent spark. You may want to start here before preceding. If you never replaced the ignition coil, this could also be the issue before I suspected the ignitor. How many miles are this car?
I also asked how the wires were also, but i guess they must be ok since you did not mention them.
You have to start with the basics before you just go ahead and waste money on parts. Coil wire!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I understand the fustration, but this problem needs to be approached with care and proper diagnostics. You say the coil tested good, what method was used to test the coil? What was the reading? Are you getting 12 volts to the coil?
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I would replace the ignitor/ignition control module and th distributor pickup as both cause this problem, really surprised it lasted this long. spark plugs and wires never cause a complete no start, a distributor rotor can, but only common in GM cars with HEI igntion
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # LX899 Ign control Module $223.79
AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 4P1272 Dist pickup w/carb $40.99
what about the distributor pickup coil!!! did u try that??
How about the next time you ask a car question u tell us everything u have done to try and fix this problem so i don't waste time suggesting stuff u say you have already replaced, is it all a big secret what you did, or do u fell somehow embarrassed to mention what you tried to do to fix the problem??
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I actually pulled another ignitor off another car, a 89 justy. and tried it and it still did the same thing! do you think it was wore out also? do you 100 percent think this is the problem. It actually looks a little different than those you posted! And the Subaru dealership priced it at 286 dollars. That is a lot of money, how sure are you on a scale of 1 to 100?
IT is about the size of the first one, and it has 2 wires running out of it. one from the ignition coil, and one heading to the cab? I have checked all small fuses that are see through! Any chance it is one of the big fuses??
Thanks
CJ
Is there anyway that it is one of the big fuses inside the engine compartment? This part is not the part I have, but subaru dealership called it the same thing! It is 280 dollars. How sure are you that it is the ignitor control module? Should I start with the distributor relay first?
There is 188000 miles on the car! And it looks like the coil may have been replaced! Coil is 50 and the igniter is 280! So you would start with the coil?
There is 188000 miles on the car! And it looks like the coil may have been replaced! Coil is 50 and the igniter is 280! So you would start with the coil? I just replaced the clutch for 500 and now this happened 3 weeks later!!
Just trying to decide if continued fixs are worth it??
I replaced the coil wire! and all the spark plug wires. Brand new! So you say coil? Then the ignitor right?
First time ever using this site! You have been helpful! Just wanted to be sure about the 280 dollar part! Only paid 1500 for the car! So spending 280 on a part is a big deal!
Radiator hose 30 Dollars
Fuel filter 14 dollars
spark plugs, wires, cap rotor, coil wire, 70 dollars!
Clutch job 500 dollars!
So answer me how sure are you if i replace those 2 parts for 335 dollars it is going to fix the problem??
First time ever using this site! You have been helpful! Just wanted to be sure about the 280 dollar part! Only paid 1500 for the car! So spending 280 on a part is a big deal!
Radiator hose 30 Dollars
Fuel filter 14 dollars
spark plugs, wires, cap rotor, coil wire, 70 dollars!
Clutch job 500 dollars!
So answer me how sure are you if i replace those 2 parts for 335 dollars it is going to fix the problem??
so what your saying is that I should test those with the light! But most likely if I changed out the distribator and the coil most likely I would be good to go?
I used a meter and the one side is showing 10 volts and the other side is showing .16 volts. The battery is also showing 10 volts. and the ignitor on both sides is showing 10 volts! so I am thinking it is the coil since you said it should also be hot till I crank it correct??
The ignition coil is only hot on one side 10 volts! on the other side it only has .16 volts. and the ignitor has 10 volts on both sides of it! so is the coil? Thanks. .16 before I crank it over. It should also be at 10 volts correct??
I am getting 10 volts to the coil and only .16 on the other side of the coil before starting! The battery only has 10 volts coming out of it also. Probably trying to start it! Should I have 10 volts going to the distributor before trying to start the car?? Thanks CJ
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