How do i loosen the outer tie rod end to remove it from the bushing once tie rod is out of streeing knuckle i know it will need to be aligined and i need to count treads when putting new outer tie rod end back in

Locate the tie rod end, and remove the nut that hold it in place.

Using a hammer and prybar, lodge the prybar under the tie rod end, and against something else, and pry up gently from underneath, while striking the area of the knuckle that it connects into with appropriate force. The tie rod end will dislodge. There is also a tool for this, if you'd rather use it. It looks like a tuning fork, and is called a "tie rod remover". Its use is self-explanatory. You can rent a kit to do this from AutoZone or Advance, the rental is about $50, IIRC, and you get your money back when you return the tool.

After having done that, loosen the locknut on the back of the tie rod, and count the number of threads that you have to turn the tie rod end to get it off from wherever it's installed. This is VERY important.

Once the old one is off, thread the new one on EXACTLY the same number of turns. This will ensure that your vehicle's alignment is about as close as you can get it without taking it to an alignment shop. Tighten the lock nut, reinstall the joint end into the hub, and torque the retainer nut. If there was a clevis or pin, reinstall it.

disconnect from steering knuckle after loosening the jam nut on the inner tie rod.count the turns to remove outer end then screw new end on using the same amount of turns

You need an inner tie rod tool. Looks like a pipe with a drive socket on one end, and a reciever on the other. Unbolt the outer tie rod from the knuckle, and loosen the lock nut on the rod



Either use a puller to remove the outer end, or hit the knuckle with a hammer, and remove the outer end from the knuckle. Unscrew the outer from the inner rod (break the lock nut loose before removing the outer from the knuckle, or you will not be able to loosen it)


Remove the bellows from the rack and inner rod.
Use a drift or punch and a hammer to push the lock plate off the inner rod end


Place the correct adapter over the inner rod end, slide the rod inside the tool, and lock the reciever end of the tool on to the adapter. place a ratchet on the drive end of the tool, and remove the rod.

Good luck.

I recommend you get a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for most auto parts stores ($20-$30). But to save you some money:
Tie Rods:
1. Loosen the lug nuts.
2. Raise front of vehicle.
3, Support it with jack stands.
4. Chock/Block the rear tires.
5. Set the parking brake.
6. Remove the front tire.
7. Mark the nut shaped end of the tie rod and the jam nut with a straight line on top.
8. Using two wrenches - one on the tie rod (nut shaped) end and the other on the jam nut,..loosen SLIGHTLY the jam nut (clockwise turn). While loosening the jam nut - make sure you count the number of turns 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 etc...
9. Using 11/32 Socket remove the tie-rod end to steering knuckle nut.
10. Use a tie rod end separator (fork) or ball joint separator (jaws) and separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
11. Before turning the tire rod off the steering arm: Count the number of turns coming off the arm using the mark you put on the tie rod nut shaped end.
Notice on the final turn off the arm what the mark position is. This wil be the position you start when screwing the new tie rod on.
12. Place the jam nut back just short of it's original position.
13. Screw the new tie rod back starting with that start position and with the same number of turns.
14. Connect the tie rod and steering knuckle.
15. Tighten the tie rod to steering knuckle nut to 40 ft-lbs.
16. The tie rod end and jam nut should then be tightened. They should be close anyway within a 1/8 turn.
17. Install lug nuts.
18. Lower Van.
19. Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Using the everyother nut until all are tightened process.
20. Wheel alignment? Test drive Van and have checked at an alignment shop.

The Stabilizer Bar Bushings:
Steps 1. thru Step 6 above. Remove both tires.
7. Remove bolts (should be 10 of them) attaching the cradle plate to the bottom of the front suspension cradle.
8. Remove the cradle plate.
9. Remove the stablizer bar links from the stabilzer bar. Confused? There is a straight bar coming from the Strut down to the sway (stabilizer) bar (which goes from one side of the Van to the other). Remove this nut.
10. Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar bushing retainers (one on each side) from the front suspension cradle.
11. Be careful this bar is heavy and will fall suddenly and may hit you on the head!!
12. Remove the bar and bushings as a unit (together).
13. Install the new bushings with the slits facing the rear of the Van and the square corners facing the ground.
14. Make sure you clean the areas on the bar where the bushings are positioned.
15. Use lubricant (non-petroleum based, like vegetable oil) to easy re-assembly.
16. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse.
Hints:
a. Align the stabilizer bar in position using the depressions in the cradle.
b. Do not tighten all-the-way the bushing retainers until later.
c. Tighten stabilizer bar to link stabilzer (sway) bar to 65 ft-lbs.
d. Tighten bushing retainer nuts to 50 ft-lbs.
e. Tighten the cradle plate bolts:
M14 at 123 ft-lbs
M12 at 80 ft-lbs.

Let mne know if this worked for you. Good Luck!!
Any other questions? Drop me a line on fixya.com!

#3 is the inner tie rod and it is simply screwed into each end of the steering rack. Raise and support the car remove the wheel and you should see where it is connected to the outer tie rod. There is a lock nut that you'll need to loosen slightly to get the tie rod off. You will need to get a wheel alignment once done but by slightly loosening the lock nut, you have a good reference of how it should be once done. Once loose, you should be able to turn the tie rod by using a wrench on the flattened area on the rod. Once disconnected from the outer tie rod end, you should be able to remove the dust boot covering the inner tie rod connection. Mine came right apart so hope you have no problems. After you have it out, here is where the loosened locknut comes into play. Put the new and old tie rod side by side, line up the ends that attach to the rack and pinion then mark the new rod so you know how far to put the lock nut on the new tie rod. Simply tightly screw the new one onto the rack and pinion put the boot back, screw on the lock nut to the mark then attach the tie rod to the outer tie rod end up to the lock nut then tighten the lock nut against the outer end. Get the tire back on, lower the car and Voila, done. Now go get an alignment.

Best bet is to have an alignment shop do it since you will need special tools to seperate the ball joint. They may find the knuckle ball joints need replacement also. Since you will need an alignment anyways its best to have a pro do this. I have a 98 expedition with 100,000 plus miles and both the lower ball joints have been replaced recently.

Instructions Things You'll Need:

• Lug nut wrench
• Jack
• Jack stands
• Wrench or pliers
• Tie rod puller
• Marker or paint
• Pen and paper
• Anti-seize compound
• Torque wrench

Remove the Tie Rod End
1. Step 1 Purchase tie rod ends that are specific to your Honda model and year, for tie rod ends vary from model year to model year. The tie rod ends often come with nuts and cotter pins (glorified bobby pins).
   
2. Step 2 Loosen the lug nuts on the front tires, but don't remove them. Jack up your vehicle, then support it securely on jack stands. Remove the tires.
   
3. Step 3 Use a wrench or piers to loosen the outer tie rod's locking nut, but do so by only 1/8th of a turn. Mark the tie rod end's position on the threaded portion of the tie rod with paint or a marker.
   
4. Step 4 Take out the cotter pin or key and use a wrench or pliers to loosen and remove the castellated nut from the outer tie rod end's spindle.
   
5. Step 5 Separate the tie rod and the steering knuckle with a tie rod puller.
   
6. Step 6 Grasp the tie rod with a wrench while you screw off the tie rod end. Make sure you keep track of the number of turns it takes to remove it, and write that number down. It'll help you when you install the replacement tie rod end.
   Replace the Tie Rod End
7. Step 1 Put a coat of anti-seize compound on the threaded portion of the tie rod end, and screw on the lock nut for the tie rod end.
   
8. Step 2 Screw on the tie rod end, making sure you do it in the same number of turns as it took to remove the original tie rod end (see Section One, Step 6).
   
9. Step 3 Slip the tapered end of the tie rod end into the steering knuckle and tighten the castellated nut to 29 to 35 foot pounds. If your tie rod end doesn't come with a castellated nut, tighten that nut to 32 foot pounds.
   
10. Step 4 Install the new cotter pin and tighten the tie rod end's lock nut. Repeat Sections 1 and 2 for the other tie rod end.
    
11. Step 5 Reinstall the tires, tighten the lug nuts and get the Honda aligned.
    

jack vehicle up in front and make sure its secure. remove front wheels. tie rod is bolted thru steering knuckle. remove the cotter pin from tie rod end. remove the nut from tie rod end. use a small ball joint splitter and small sledge to release tie rod end from knuckle. if you dot have splitter a good hard hit with small sledge on steering knuckle where tie rod attaches will usually release it. b careful not to bend backing plate. loosen the lock nut on tie rod and spin old end off. try to install new end as close as possible to same position as old end. you will need a front alignment after replacement.

loosen nut on tie rod..22mm wrench,remove nut from tie rod end..18mm socket,hit side of knuckle with hammer to seperate tie rod end..unscrew tie rod end from tie rod..reverse procedure to install..you will to hold down on tie rod end to keep stud from spinning

If this is a rack and pinion type steering, in order to remove the inner tie rods you will first have loosen the jam nut at the outer tie rod end,next unbolt the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle, unscrew the outer tie rod end off (be sure to count how many turns to remove), next remove the inner bellows boot (black boot) from the tie rod / rack and pinion, next is to unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack assembly (the do make a tool for this to make it easier) but if you do not have the tool,you can sometimes use a big pair of channel locks or a big enough wrench to fit on the fitting on the inside of the inner tie rod, and just unscrew the inner tie rod (normal left=loosen, right=tighten). Hope this helps. Would also recommend having it aligned after you are finished.