P0016 is crank and cam out of sync.
P0016-CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT TIMING MISALIGNMENT
POSSIBLE CAUSES
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
CHECKING INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL WITH LAB
CMP WIRE HARNESS INSPECTION
TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING INSPECTION
CKP WIRE HARNESS INSPECTION
TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING INSPECTION
INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
If you haven't actually jumped time, then...
Apparently a lot of Chrysler 300M's at
one point or another go through a problem similar to this. The
symptoms include (often in this order):
Acting like the rev limiter is turning
on at greater than approximately 2,500 RPM
Rough idle followed by engine shutdown
and inability to start
The Fuel Shutdown and/or Automatic
Shutdown Relay clicking on and off multiple times per second or every
couple of seconds
Intermittent spark when cranking the
engine
Trouble codes for crankshaft position
sensor fault, camshaft position sensor fault, or both
People will try replacing the
crankshaft position sensor, the camshaft position sensor, or both,
followed by the ECM (Engine Control Module), and the car may start
up, then stop working again. This will make you pull your hair out.
I just went through this problem
myself, and I was finally successful in correcting the fault. If you
follow this procedure, you will be too.
At this point, you'll have established
that you have a good battery, good power distribution, a good fuel
pump, a good crankshaft position sensor, a good camshaft position
sensor, and good ASD and Fuel Pump relays. If your car still won't
start, and you're still reading bad crankshaft and camshaft position
sensor codes, and you're still getting "chattering" ASD and Fuel
Pump relays, it's because the relays are getting an intermittent
ground through the ECM. Most likely your problem is that there is a
fault in the engine wiring harness that has shorted and ruined your
PCM. The harness must be repaired and then the ECM must be replaced.
If you just replace the ECM without repairing the harness, odds are
you'll just fry the new one.
To remove the harness, first remove the
upper intake manifold. Place clean rags in the intake holes on the
lower intake manifold to prevent debris from entering the manifold.
Disconnect the C1 connector from the ECM (this goes to the engine,
the C2 connects to the PDC). Follow the harness and disconnect it
from the PDC connectors, the alternator, fuel injectors, coil packs,
upstream O2 sensors, throttle body, etc. Note the portion of the
engine harness that passes under the upper radiator hose connection
at the lower intake manifold. On my 300M, the insulation on about
half of the wires at this point had been melted due to the heat from
the engine coolant passing through the hose.
Repair the harness. Separate the
individual wires from each other. Wire by wire, cut out any parts
that have melted or brittle insulation. Solder and heat shrink
replacement wires into place.
After repairing the damaged portions of
the wiring in this section of the harness, inspect the rest of the
harness for cracked, brittle insulation, melted insulation, chafed
insulation, etc. Repair the wires as necessary (this part took me a
couple of evenings in my shop). Inspect all of the connector plugs
for damage, missing lock tabs, or any other damage. You can still get
most of the connectors at a dealer, so replace them as necessary (I
found about half a dozen wires that were chafed at the connector plug
and were probably grounding out on my harness; any of these could
have fried my ECM), although if you need a C1 connector, you're going
to have to go to a junkyard and splice it in (I didn't need one). Use
solder and heat shrink, or you'll just end up redoing the job when
your crimped splices corrode out.
After repairing all the wires in your
engine harness and replacing any connectors as necessary, chafe wrap
your rebuilt harness. Between Auto Zone, O'Reilly's and Harbor
Freight, I got plenty of 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" plastic
anti-chafe corrugated tubing (or whatever it's called). Chafe wrap
every sensor lead right down to the sensor and secure the chafe wrap
with zip ties. After chafe wrapping the entire harness, use plenty of
electrical tape where sections of chafe wrap meet to secure the
sections together.
At this point, you have a harness
that's probably better than factory. Reinstall the harness, rerouting
it ABOVE the upper radiator hose and pushed forward more so you don't
get melted wiring again anytime soon from radiated manifold heat.
Reconnect the harness to your ECM (you might get lucky and NOT have a
fried ECM). Try to start the car. If you're still getting the
chattering relays, your PCM is shot. I recommend going to Auto Zone
for a new one. Dodge wanted $500 for the part, plus another $100 to
flash program the ECM; they wanted $900 to install and program the
ECM themselves. O'Reilly's wanted $130 for the ECM, $20 to ship it in
from out of state (plus a three-day wait), and then I'd have to take
it to Dodge to flash program it. AutoZone had the part I needed for
$130, and when I went in, I brought in my VIN and my mileage, they
got me the part in three days already flash programmed from the
remanufacturer. It works like a charm, plug-n-play. Just install the
part and you're ready to go.
Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
Possible Causes:
.Wiring harness fault.5v supply circuit open or shorted to ground.Tone wheel/pulse ring is damaged or corroded.CMP Sensor has failed.CMP Sensor signal circuit is open, shorted to ground or battery. voltage or 5v supply.CMP Sensor ground circuit is open.PCM has failed.Trouble Code: P0016
Crankshaft/Camshaft Timing Misalignment
Possible Causes:
.Base engine problem (i.e., the camshaft timing is not correct).Intermittent condition.CKP or CMP Sensor signal is erratic (check with lab scope).Tone wheel or pulse wheel is damaged or contains debris.CKP or CMP Sensor, harness or connector has failed.PCM has failed.Trouble Code: P0061
Engine Temperature Control Level 2 RPM Performance
Possible Causes:
PCM need to be reprogrammed.PCM has failed.
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