My 1998 misubishi eclips non turbo 2.0 , 4 cylinder the check engine is on I check the line , change gas cap fuses , clean injecter and I put it on scanner but won't show what can it be?

Timing a Ford 7500 turbo backhoe involves adjusting the timing of the engine's fuel injection pump. Here are the general steps to time a Ford 7500 turbo backhoe:

1. Locate the timing marks: Look for the timing marks on the engine's flywheel and the timing cover.
2. Clean the timing marks: Clean the timing marks to ensure they are visible and easy to read.
3. Rotate the engine: Rotate the engine in the direction of normal rotation until the timing mark on the flywheel lines up with the pointer on the timing cover. This indicates that the engine is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on cylinder number one.
4. Remove the fuel injection pump: Remove the fuel injection pump from the engine.
5. Adjust the timing: Rotate the fuel injection pump until the timing marks on the pump housing line up with the timing marks on the engine. The exact timing specifications may vary depending on the engine and fuel injection pump model.
6. Reinstall the fuel injection pump: Reinstall the fuel injection pump and secure it in place.
7. Verify the timing: Rotate the engine again to make sure the timing marks still align correctly.
8. Test the engine: Start the engine and test it to ensure that it runs smoothly and efficiently.

It's important to follow the specific procedures and timing specifications provided in the engine's manual or by a qualified mechanic. If you're unsure about timing your Ford 7500 turbo backhoe, it's recommended to consult with a professional mechanic or technician.

There are several engine types

1. 3 cylinder
2. Straight 4 cylinder
3. Horizontally opposed 4 cylinder
4. Straight 5 cylinder
5. Straight 6 cylinder
6. Horizontally opposed 6 cylinder
7. V-6
8. V-8
9. V-10

You can find all these engines in various vehicles produced in the last 20 year whether they be gas, diesel, carburated, fuel injected, super charged, or turbo charged.

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Check fuel pressure regulator. The actual pressure with a gauge the clean injectors. I'd double check the timing. It also can be the throttle body. Only so many fuel problems the take a good look at the distributor. Small crack or bad wire gives off spark but might not be enough small 4 cylinder for their pecission motors need to be precise check fuses and main busses those are easy and cheap fixes

putting gas where?
gas tank
or doing the Test fuel procedures?
is this a barn find/ field found car, or it ran perfect last week, and DD for months. (daily driver?) all this maters and is unstated.
1.6L or 1.8L engine, G16 or J18 suzuki enignes? major different they are.
with old engines, we do this and win every time.

all FUSES good, (EFI and spark fuses up to 3 or more)

1: compression test, sparks out , wide open throttle. warm to hot engine.
180psi on all,, good, if like 90, the timing belt slipped. if J18. we have
3 folks now on our forum that managed to slip a chain (they ingored huge noises from engine,,,, amazing)
2: spark got good on all 4 cylinders. and timed right not guessed at
using a real tool called a timing light for 20 bucks.
3: with fuel pump relay pulled i test engine on test fuel.
runs for 3 seconds, each spray and SOUNDS good.
ok it does that.. (this avoids flooding issues)
4: i put back the fuel pump relay.
and it dont start. i check for injection,
i find all injectors, dead.
the ECU is cutting injection,
i connect scan tool and see the CKP DTC errors , the CKP is dead
or CMP on G16. dead. the ECU reports them cranking only, on a dead engine.
the ECU will cut fuel if it seen spark dead.
the ECU will cut fuel if the TPS sensors signals wide open throttle cranking
i checked all that and its good.
i find fuel pressure a 0 , cranking, (one more cheap tool)
i find 12vdc good to pump cranking (a 10 buck meter at walfart)
the pump is bad. no the wires are corroded. at the pump line....
super common on old cars.

this is 1 example path of 100s.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

if your carb is a tbi (throttle body injector) then the carb is clogged

sounds like a coil issue

i'm pretty sure you have a Central Port Injection setup on this engine. Which means the injectors are inside of the upper plenum and cannot be seen. This type of fuel injection system uses a centrally located electric fuel injector(s) which feed fuel to a mechanical poppet style injector which is routed directly above the intake valves for each cylinder.

The poppet valves require a minimum of 56 psi of fuel pressure. If you have 55 psi it will not start. It needs the fuel pressure to overcome the mechanical resistance of the poppet injectors. Fuel pressure should at least be 60 psi. It is very important to check fuel pressure with an accurate gauge.

If fuel pressure is low it will not start no matter what you do and a new fuel pump will likley fix the problem. Get a good quality pump such as an a/c deco or Dephi. Other brands may be cheaper but they will not last.

If fuel pressure checks out good let me know and I'll give you some more info.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Make sure you have at least 5 gallons of gas in the tank. If you hear the fuel pump power up test the fuel pressure at the end of the injection rail if you have fuel injection. If you have a carburetor injection system remove the air cleaner so you can prime the Carb and pour an ounce or 2 directly into the carb and see if it will start. If it doesn't you may have a much larger problem. If it doesn't start when you prime the carb you need to do a compression check on the cylinders to see if you have lost compression on the cylinders. Being this old of a vehicle it is possible the Timing Chain broke which gives you the same symptom as running out of gas when it happens and the motor is running. If you have actual fuel injection with an injection rail, assuming the fuel pump is powering up (You should be able to hear it), you can bleed air off the line in most cases using the check valve at the end of each rail. It is sometimes covered by a small dust cap and when you remove the cap it looks like a standard valve you would find in any tire stem. You can release the air bubbles from the line like you would release the air from a tire by pressing the center of the check valve. That will remove the possibility that you have air bubbles in the line.

Issue with Gaz Line transportation.. Check input Gas Line... Take Off Gaz line from Carb Start engine see if gas came out if yes..Check your intake carb for Durt inside the line ...Also chek all your Vaccum Line and sensor Volvo are sensitive for Vaccum lost and The Carb need it ..Also if it Fuel injection... Check for Ignition Control Box for Malfunctioning Relay ...good luck

It is under the hood, on the passenger side, on the side of the strut tower, mounted in fuel line hose. If you are having a hard time finding it trace your gas line back from your injection rail/throttle body and you will run right into it, can't miss it.