I've replaced just about the entire break system on my 94 dakota and when the breaks are pushed sometimes the pedal is near the top of the stroke other times it is near the bottom. Could this be my proportioning valves? The reason i rebuilt the system is because some type of fluid was installed in the system by the previous owner and ruined all of the seals.

You brake lights are actuated by a switch that is connected to the brake pedal or to the hydraulics. It's sticking in the closed position. I'd need to see a shop manual on your car - or the car itself - to tell you any more than that, but that's your problem. The first place to look would be at the brake pedal, under the dash, near the top of the linkage. Shine a flashlight up there and see if you can see a see the switch. It may look like this:



If it's not there, it could be in the hydraulics. In that case, you should take the car to a brake shop.
You may be able to find a used break light switch online.
Sources: Picture: About.com

hi see if there is a switch behind the brake peddle,undo one of the connectors,then switch ignition on and see if the brake lights have gone out,if so replace falty switch.
good luck hope this was some help,PH.

You said brake shoes rather than pads so I assume they are drum brakes you are having trouble with. Historically some drum brakes are very difficult to bleed but the task is made easier when the brakes are adjusted so hydraulic cylinders are pushed fully in - that means some designs need the adjusters fully releasing or the shoes removing and the pistons retained by a clamp or a hose clip.

Pressure bleeding is best but without the tool it means either bleeding via gravity or back to the pumping which needs technique and feel - sometimes vigorous and sometimes slow but in both cases pausing for a slow count of three at both top and bottom of each stroke is good. The help of an assistant is useful.

In the case of difficulty try pumping the pedal until resistance is felt and keeping your weight on it have the assistant open the bleed nipple and then close it when the fluid flow has stopped - and repeat until there is a good pedal.

When you are certain the brake line has no air in it, if the pedal feel is still unsatisfactory try clamping the flexible hose(s). If the pedal is then ok the trouble remains with the brake but if not the master cylinder must be suspected but before replacement ensure any linkage from the pedal is correctly adjusted and if a brake booster is used that a clearance exists between the booster pushrod and master cylinder piston.

Black sediment in the fluid reservoir indicates the seals are past the best. Sometimes the piston return spring isn't strong enough by design or because of corrosion. Unless the piston returns fully on every stroke you will be wasting time, patience and fluid. A colleague once had trouble bleeding a Simca and they pumped nearly a gallon of fluid through it before they decided they were past caring about seeming foolish and rang the dealer for advice - he was told about the return spring being weak by design and advised to wait 30 minutes between pumps. A couple of hours later there was a good pedal.

check the brake fluid level, this is under the hood near the back wall by the drivers side. brakes are serious problem and should go to shop, they probably need the brake bled, this is where all the air is pushed out of the lines, sometimes you can get lucky and pump the brake pedal ( push down and release the brake pedal) over and over again and see if they tighten up

hope this helps

probably a brake light switch at the top of the brake pedal arm feel up there till you find a white or black plastic switch. They are inexpensive at Am*zon or Rock Auto.

You could check the brakelight switch located on the brake pedal linkage. Sometimes they move out of adjustment, sometimes they fail. The ones I've seen are usually plastic and the threads strip off so the jamb nut won't hold the switch in place correctly. It should be round (or at least the part with the mounting nut should be round) with a plug with 2 or 3 wires going into the back and located so that the brake pedal lever moves away from the switch when you push on the pedal. If you deem that it needs to be replaced the switch should be available at most auto parts stores.

Your problem should be that the rubber stops that are mounted at the top of your break pedal came out or are worn down too much to press the buttons all the way in.
What they do is push the button that switches off your break lights when the break pedal is released (yes, kind of backwards way to design it, i know). That's why your lights stay on even when your car is off. I had to go to the junkyard to find replacements for mine and they are a ***** to replace.
They are chipped away easily by the break switches when your car shakes badly over a prolonged period of time. Like driving a couple of weeks on a bad front tire.

check fuse first, the brake light switch is on the upper part of the pedal, you have to be a cortorsionist to get at it, good luck

ONE SOLUTION, THERE IS A SWITCH BEHIND THE BRAKE, WHEN YOU PUSH DOWN THE BRAKE THE STEEL ARM PRESSES THE SWITCH TO ACTIVATE THE BRAKE LIGHTS, SOUNDS LIKE YOURS MIGHT BE DEFECTIVE.

check 2 things first one is their is a plastic check valve that is inserted into the booster (under your hood) then goes to a vaccum line ,then to the engine, pull it out of the booster and check the valve it should be L - shaped. it might have a hole in it causing a vaccum leak. be carefull pulling it out not to break it just pull straight out. if that is ok put it back in. then your problem is going to be the brake booster the big black round case. sometimes the diaphram inside the booster rips causing a vaccum leak which causes a hard brake pedal and you have to stand on the pedal to stop. then you will have to repace the whole thing but not the master cylnder unbolt master cylder with the brake lines connected, the lines will give then disconnect brake pedal arm under dash inside of trk their should be 2 nuts or 4 buts under dash on inside of firewall near brake pedal then remove booster pulls out from under hood. there is not much to replacing them.