1977 VW baywindow camper crankcase

Change the ignition switch, and look at the car racks, only here the chance that you will find it is very small! Because your model is quite rare for the USA, or you can find it on some forums / Vw communities, enthusiasts may well know! VW club

Change the fuel filter, replace the air filter, and verify sufficient pressure at the main TBI injector. Replace the fuel pressure regulator or primary injector if necessary (both inexpensive parts).
Also, if your camper was allowed to sit for more than a few days with ethanol blend fuel in the tank, rust may be clogging your fuel intake screen (in the gas tank), or may have damaged the fuel pump. As a precaution, I would recommend removing ALL FUEL and replacing it with new non-ethanol fuel (where available).

wow , 1977 , we dont get 77 cars here ever, they are relics.

a BLAST FROM the pass, (i have 66 and 68 cars,now, so....)

if the engine is good, compression near spec> x4 150PSI min?

The fsm covers all these numbers, so you look them up. ok?

and spark is good.,!

then the carb is bad. fixing 1977 carbs\' (done 100) are very hard.

lacking kits, and good cleaners (illegal here now).

lacking parts, inside, (toy dont sell em;\')





CARB 101:

Stalls only hot?

choke not going to full open hot? fix it or upgrade to manual.

float level wrong,? fix it. (google that)

JET, nozzles and emulsion paths blocked? or loose?

JET main fell out, and is rolling around in bowl?>

fuel pressure too high?, some shade tree used EFI pump:? oops.

fuel pressure too low 1psi, (read toy spec, get it right)

air leaks at the carb base gaskets, or there in intake.

idle set too low?



(bad carb)

how is that,?

Bad move a lot of alarms are direct connect and if you try to disconnect the car will go in to thief mode and cut fuel pump off and power.

If it has no bleed screw then you need to loosen the flange nut(that holds the pipe to the slave cylinder). Pump the pedal a couple times then hold it down. Loosen the nut till the fluid comes out. Fasten again. Pump and hold. Loosen etc.

Here is what I looked up: Fuel Pump Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove the fuel tank.
2. Disconnect the pressure transducer connector on the top rear comer of the fuel tank.
3. Clean the area around the fuel pump mounting flange.
4. Remove the bolts and remove the fuel pump.

CAUTION
The fuel pump must be handled carefully to avoid damage to the float arm and the filter.
Remove and discard the fuel pump mounting gasket.
To Install:

1. Clean the fuel pump mounting flange and the fuel tank mounting surface.
2. Install the fuel pump mounting gasket on the mounting flange.
3. Position the fuel pump in the fuel tank. NOTE: Tighten fuel pump bolts in a star pattern.
   
4. Install the bolts. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 in. lbs.).
5. Connect the fuel pressure transducer.
6. Install the fuel tank.

Dropping the fuel tank is rather involved. Beyond this sort of Q&A format.

I suggest you get a Bently Workshop Manual and a seal kit from gowesty.com or similar.

Also plan on replacing fuel hoses and a new filter would be a good idea.

One word of caution. The plastic overflow tanks in each wheel well have nipples for the fuel lines that become quite fragile so BE CAREFUL! The tanks are not available new.

I think you can do it from under the van.

locate a black plastic cap. tak it off. then you can see the pump. twist it against the clock.(the upper part) dont be afraid using some force. usally sits hard.when twist--> drag up. sorry bad english:)

no fuel issue. check fuse for fuel pump check fuel pump fuel pump relay fuel filter could be pluged.if you turn engine over acouple turns and stop you should hear fuel pump buzz.also check wires at ignition coil for corrostion or broken fuel pump relay gets its singnal for negitive side of coil.