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For what it's worth - I make a habit of buying the shop tech manuals (when available) - when I buy a car ... According to the tech data - the fuel filter is accessible at the top of the fuel tank, through an access panel - itself under the rear seat. NOW, the fun begins. Getting the seat to stay out of the way is item ONE. Getting the RTV-like black goop to break lock on the panel is its own challenge (I'm still contemplating a linoleum knife). Meanwhile - without being able to SEE the little bugger - I'm uncertain as to the actual fuel-line hook-up arrangements (nothing specific mentioned in the manual - but they're apt to be high pressure fittings - and the after-market filter I purchased doesn't look to be designed for such fittings - despite Auto Zone's assurances ... It'd be aweful to botch the access or job, and NOT have a way to get around for a GOOD fix ... The "factory" recommends 52.5K-miles replacement - but the dealerships don't like doing the job - and recommend AGAINST replacement. I've been having a bear of a time with the check engine light going on AFTER getting fuel (and I replaced the cap with a factory one - which stopped the issue for only 3 weeks - and then an after-market that had no effect). I suspect a somewhat clogging fuel filter, as - despite my buying expensive Chevron - this whole shooting match started after ONE particular fueling last summer. I would like to be able to remove and replace the fuel filter myself - but what a bear of a time it's going to be ... First, when you get through the panel goop - you're supposed to disconnect the fuel pump wiring - then start the car and run it until it stops (removing fuel pressure on the filter). THEN comes the fun part with whatever pressure fittings they employ and I can FUBAR ...
Those are the facts. Sometimes having the facts doesn't help the situation much. I have 76.5K-miles on my 2004 Accent (manual tranny) - and am mostly delighted with it (key word being mostly). I was not happy that the gel-cell battery from the Korean assembly was NOT procurable HERE ... Wet batteries ... **** !!! Changing the tail light in the rear hatch is a bit of a bear, as well (not to mention how the headlight modules are packed in there) ... Do it yourselfers are having a harder time each passing year. I'm Mike, and that IS the way it IS ...
For what it's worth - I make a habit of buying the shop tech manuals (when available) - when I buy a car ... According to the tech data - the fuel filter is accessible at the top of the fuel tank, through an access panel - itself under the rear seat. NOW, the fun begins. Getting the seat to stay out of the way is item ONE. Getting the RTV-like black goop to break lock on the panel is its own challenge (I'm still contemplating a linoleum knife). Meanwhile - without being able to SEE the little bugger - I'm uncertain as to the actual fuel-line hook-up arrangements (nothing specific mentioned in the manual - but they're apt to be high pressure fittings - and the after-market filter I purchased doesn't look to be designed for such fittings - despite Auto Zone's assurances ... It'd be aweful to botch the access or job, and NOT have a way to get around for a GOOD fix ... The "factory" recommends 52.5K-miles replacement - but the dealerships don't like doing the job - and recommend AGAINST replacement. I've been having a bear of a time with the check engine light going on AFTER getting fuel (and I replaced the cap with a factory one - which stopped the issue for only 3 weeks - and then an after-market that had no effect). I suspect a somewhat clogging fuel filter, as - despite my buying expensive Chevron - this whole shooting match started after ONE particular fueling last summer. I would like to be able to remove and replace the fuel filter myself - but what a bear of a time it's going to be ... First, when you get through the panel goop - you're supposed to disconnect the fuel pump wiring - then start the car and run it until it stops (removing fuel pressure on the filter). THEN comes the fun part with whatever pressure fittings they employ and I can FUBAR ...
Those are the facts. Sometimes having the facts doesn't help the situation much. I have 76.5K-miles on my 2004 Accent (manual tranny) - and am mostly delighted with it (key word being mostly). I was not happy that the gel-cell battery from the Korean assembly was NOT procurable HERE ... Wet batteries ... **** !!! Changing the tail light in the rear hatch is a bit of a bear, as well (not to mention how the headlight modules are packed in there) ... Do it yourselfers are having a harder time each passing year. I'm Mike, and that IS the way it IS ...
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The easy way is to go to the dealership parts department. They would keep those in stock. Or you go to a spares motor factor like the ones below. They are picking up 'wheel bearings', but they can supply all bearing parts..
https://www.autodoc.co.uk > spares > hyundai > coupe
Over 5000 car parts for HYUNDAI COUPE found in stock at AUTODOC ? Purchase vehicle parts ? auto accessories for HYUNDAI COUPE online at affordable prices ...
i would expect it is a breather connection to supply oily air to the air intake , will most likely have a wire gauze filter inside , this can be cleaned with a drop of petrol
The fuel filter is located underneath the car, near the fuel tank. Make sure to remove the fuel pump fuse while the car is running to relieve the fuel pressure before replacing the fuel filter.
usually the pollen filter is located under the windshield in the shroud area or some place where air enters the cabin of the car check also your airfilter cannister it will be in or on the fire wall or door jam look carefully alos you can have the dealership or an auto parts store tell you the location of the part.
For what it's worth - I make a habit of buying the shop tech manuals (when available) - when I buy a car ... According to the tech data - the fuel filter is accessible at the top of the fuel tank, through an access panel - itself under the rear seat. NOW, the fun begins. Getting the seat to stay out of the way is item ONE. Getting the RTV-like black goop to break lock on the panel is its own challenge (I'm still contemplating a linoleum knife). Meanwhile - without being able to SEE the little bugger - I'm uncertain as to the actual fuel-line hook-up arrangements (nothing specific mentioned in the manual - but they're apt to be high pressure fittings - and the after-market filter I purchased doesn't look to be designed for such fittings - despite Auto Zone's assurances ... It'd be aweful to botch the access or job, and NOT have a way to get around for a GOOD fix ... The "factory" recommends 52.5K-miles replacement - but the dealerships don't like doing the job - and recommend AGAINST replacement. I've been having a bear of a time with the check engine light going on AFTER getting fuel (and I replaced the cap with a factory one - which stopped the issue for only 3 weeks - and then an after-market that had no effect). I suspect a somewhat clogging fuel filter, as - despite my buying expensive Chevron - this whole shooting match started after ONE particular fueling last summer. I would like to be able to remove and replace the fuel filter myself - but what a bear of a time it's going to be ... First, when you get through the panel goop - you're supposed to disconnect the fuel pump wiring - then start the car and run it until it stops (removing fuel pressure on the filter). THEN comes the fun part with whatever pressure fittings they employ and I can FUBAR ...
Those are the facts. Sometimes having the facts doesn't help the situation much. I have 76.5K-miles on my 2004 Accent (manual tranny) - and am mostly delighted with it (key word being mostly). I was not happy that the gel-cell battery from the Korean assembly was NOT procurable HERE ... Wet batteries ... **** !!! Changing the tail light in the rear hatch is a bit of a bear, as well (not to mention how the headlight modules are packed in there) ... Do it yourselfers are having a harder time each passing year. I'm Mike, and that IS the way it IS ...
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