Hi, its bad news im afraid it is the heating element its over heated which they do from time to time so the only way your going to solve this is replacing the element, if the light wasnt lighting up at all then it could have been a fuse or a wire worked loose but as the light is flashing this is showing you a warning message that the unit is no longer operating due to a problem with the heating element.
the only option you have of solving this is to get the whole heating element replaced and the rest checking to ensure it wasnt a short that caused the element to pack up
let me know if you need further assistance ok
im sorry i couldnt give you good news or an easy fix but if you had said the light dont light up at all then i would have said check fuse and or the wiring harness but as your are getting the flashing light then this is telling you that the heater is cutting off due to a fault with the element.
Here is a heated seat TSB for cars built prior to 12/14/07
TSB 09-4-8
03/09/09
INOPERATIVE HEATED SEAT(S) - BUILT
BEFORE 12/14/2007
FORD:
2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle
2008 Taurus X, Taurus
MERCURY:
2005-2007 Montego
2008 Sable
ISSUE
Some
2005-2007 Freestyle, Five Hundred, Montego and 2008 Taurus, Sable and
Taurus X vehicles built before 12/14/2007 may exhibit an inoperative
heated seat(s). This concern may be caused by an intermittent open
element in the heated seat mat.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
The
heated seat system is controlled by the heated seat module located
underneath the front passenger seat cushion. The heated seat switches
are part of the heating ventilation air conditioning (HVAC) module but
the heated seat system operates independently from the climate control
system. The heated seat module regulates seat temperature by monitoring
resistance of a thermistor type thermostat located in the cushion heater
mat. The heated seat module is designed to remain on, heating the seat
and maintaining temperature until switched off. For vehicles built
before 5/1/2006, the module will time-out and switch off after 10
minutes.
1. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 501-10 for pin point test on inoperative heated seat(s).
a.
When testing the heater mats resistance and circuits for an
intermittent open, technicians should sit in the seat while testing the
circuit resistance, move the seat in multiple seating positions and
apply pressure to several areas of the heated seat mat to ensure the mat
element is not open intermittently.
2. Refer to WSM 501-10 for heated seat element replacement when an open electrical circuit has been identified.
Parts Block
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT
: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty
coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
MT090408 Use SLTS Operations If Actual
Available Or Labor Time
Performed As Actual Time
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
14D696 28
I hope this helps to solve it.
here is other solution porocedure...
Installed new pad on Driver Side purchased from rockauto.com
Really not that difficult. You can replace by just removing the front and side leather.
1)
Test new pad. Unplug current heater pad and plug in new one to see
that it works. The plug is on the center console side of the seat and
faces the rear. You can follow it from the hole in the bottom rear of
the seat if you are unsure. You will need to access it from the back
seat. Plug it in, turn heater on and make sure it gets warm. If yes,
unlpug the pad and start the replacement.
2) Remove the plastic
cowling with the seat controls. There is a small set screw underneath
the back underside of the seat that needs to be unscrewed. There are
then 2-clips attached to a metal rail on the side and then christmas
tree style clips that need to be popped out. I used a flat head
screwdriver to depress the clips. You should be able to gently ease
them out until they are free. You can just leave it connected, as you
just need access to the J-channels on the leather. Plus you may want to
still be able to move the seat. I found that handy.
3) Undo the
seat cover. It is attached to the bottom of the seat by J-channel
clips. You will have to push down on the top of the seat above the
clips to create slack to get them off. There are 3 of them to remove. 2
on the side, and 1 in front. Just pull them with your fingers. They
will slide off.
4) Now start rolling back the leather and snipping
Hog Rings. The hardest part. Use a good pair of metal cutters/tin
snips to snap the rings. They can be a little hard to get to due to how
snug the leather is. You will need to remove all of the door side
rings and 2 along each of the center pleats. But that should be it.
You will just need to create enough space to slide the new pad into
place. Mark the holes in the leather with marker. It will make your
ring replacement easier.
NOTE: I did not remove the original pad as
it was permanently adhered to the seat foam. You could cut it away, but
I chose not to. They are thin and soft and you can't even tell that
the old one is still in place.
5) Put new pad in place. You will
have to slide it under some of the leather. Make sure to put the plug
through the hole in the seat foam. The pad has adhesive strips on the
bottom. Peal off the release film one strip at a time. (Dry fit before
removing release film) The rear one is going to be the biggest pain to
do. The adhesive was not that sticky so you should be able to slide it
under. Create a void to move it with one hand and slide it into place
with the other. It will take a little bit of maneuvering to get it into
place. After that, the front and center strips are a piece of cake.
6)
Plug in pad and test. Make sure to tuck the wire away. I used the
current wire as a guide. You can zip tie it if you removed the old pad,
or just tuck it in where the current wire is connected if you left it
in place. It will stay pretty secure just tucked in.
7) Put leather
back in place. You will have to replace the hog rings. The kit comes
with rings, and a tool that I found completely worthless. I used
needle-nose pliers instead. They work just fine and the rings will curl
like they are supposed to. Just clamp them back into the same area that
they were removed from. I put the rings through the leather and then
grasped them with the pliers and pushed them into the foam over the rods
molded in the foam. Push them in and squeeze them closed. Just pull
up on the leather a little to see if they are secure. Repeat for all
locations.
8) Pull leather back into place and secure J-clips onto the seat.
9) Put cowling back into place. It will just pop back on. Don't forget about the little screw on back side.
Total
time was about an hour, but the seat has heat again and I didn't pay
through the nose to get it fixed. Not the most fun repair ever, but you
will save a bunch of money if you can pull it off.
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It could be the heating element. But not real likely. It is most commonly the switch or connection that is the problem. This should be under warranty. But if not I would check the switch first. It is the most common problem, and least expensive.
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Usually answered in minutes!
Thanks for the reply. To determine if it's the switch, should I remove the cover on the dash and switch it with the passenger side one?
also, my warranty is expired because of the mileage on the car.
I called the dealer and they said it is most likely the element. In their experience the switches either work, or don't. Approx. $600 to fix as the warranty is done. I don't need heated seats that badly!
I am fine with trying the switch but I would assume that a switch either works, or doesn't work. My fear is that there is a short in the element and it is tripping the relay. Just want to know if there is a quick way of diagnosing this without sending it somewhere.
Thanks
Thanks for the reply. I contacted the dealer and they could fix it but because it's out of warranty, I'd have to pay big bucks. I checked out RockAuto but could only find heated seat pads for the rear seats. Are these the ones to use? Couldn't find anything for the fronts. Also, before ordering replacement pads, how do I determine that it is the pads and not something else?
Thanks again
Does anyone know how to check for certain if the problem is the actual heating element or something else (before I buy an after market heating pad to install) ?
Thanks
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