Did it really over heat or a false reading by the temp sensor
How many kms this vehicle done.Are there any bearing noises from water pump.Check if both radiater hoses hot.Radiater cores block up some of the tubes and will overheat long idling does vehicle overheat normal driving.Also a lot blame thermostat but its not always at fault and you can test it easy.Never throw thermostat out engines are designed to run with them
Could be one of 2 things. The thermostat could be stuck closed, which is fairly common after about 5 years, also depends on how much mineral is in the water y our using, high mineral in the water will cause thermostat to fail b4 time,
2nd, you have a blocked radiator, These days it's hardly worth getting them cleaned or a re core..
They are relatively inexpensive. You could try flushing the radiator with come CLR Clear.
Put 250 /300 mm in a full radiator, take the jeep for a drive, come back and take bottom radiator hose off radiator end, drop water and refill . The CLR Clear is an avid and it will help dissolve any calcium deposits, and other mineral build up in the radiator.
To test the thermostat, undo the 2 12mm bolts either side of thermostat housing, take out thermostat an note witch way it goes in. Once it's out,boil the jug, place thermostat in dish or container so it fully submerged, pour over boiling water, if it's ok, the spring will contract and open the thermo so good water flows through.
If it doesn't move it's failed
Will pay to use a new gasket with some gasket glue when re fitting thermo housing.
Once you've flushed radiator n if still getting hot,
Chase one up online or take it to radiator centre if not mechanically handy.
Good luck.
Ps. Don't fill radiator with cold water if engine is hot, and not running. . Always start the engine , cold water in hot engine can warp the head/ heads .
I would verify the fan is working and have the cooling system flushed.
Check to see if you have coolant in cylinder #3 by taking out the plug and looking at the tip.
SOURCE: My 99 Jeep cherokee laredo keeps overheating
Overheating with knocking and shaking is a very good chance that you have water/Anti freeze in your oil and that would be a blown heat gasket or cracked head or water jacket.(check oil filler cap and dip stick for creamish white reside . That will also explain the constant over heating. In my opinion you need at least a head job or may need to rebuild or replace motor. Good Luck
SOURCE: Check Engine light flashes and car vibrates
The only scenario I am familiar with that causes a blinking or flashing Check Engine Light is misfires. Your description of the car shaking is another sign of possible misfires as well. There could be other issues, it would be helpful to know what codes are getting set. However, with the flashing check engine light and the shaking of the car the first thing I would do, if it hasnt been done in a while, is a tune up. Replace the plugs to start. I believe you have a distributorless ignition meaning that you have coil packs instead of a distributor.
Your coil pack sits on top of the plugs. Look to the left side of the engine, just at the bottom of the valve cover and you will see (assuming you have the 4.0L 6-cylinder engine) a series of three humps. Those three humps is your coil packs and there should be four bolts that hold it in. Take out those four bolts, pry up the coil pack and then you will have access to replace the spark plugs.
While your at it, Id replace the fuel filter, air filter and other general maintenance/tune up items like that.
SOURCE: check engine code P0740 (torque conv clutch no rpm
Low fluid pressure to the torque converter Have seen this before. I first try to flush the fluid and replace the filter fixed the problem most of the time. If that doesn't work u need a new torque converter.
SOURCE: MISFIRE CYLINDER #3 CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON VEHICLE
Check spark plug wires for corrosion
SOURCE: I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.7litre V8.
Trouble Code: P0320
No Crank Reference Signal to PCM
Possible Causes:
CKP Sensor signal circuit is open or grounded.
CKP Sensor VREF circuit is open or grounded.
Tone wheel or flex plate damage or erratic CKP Sensor signals.
CKP Sensor is damaged or has failed.
PCM has failed. 4.7L
The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) is mounted into the engine block above the starter motor. Engine speed and crankshaft position are provided through the crankshaft position sensor. The sensor generates pulses that are the input sent to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM interprets the sensor input to determine the crankshaft position. The PCM then uses this position, along with other inputs, to determine injector sequence and ignition timing. The sensor is a Hall effect device combined with an internal magnet. It is also sensitive to steel within a certain distance from it.
On the 4.7L V8 engine, a tone wheel is bolted to the engine crankshaft. This tone wheel has sets of notches at its outer edge. The notches cause a pulse to be generated when they pass under the sensor. The pulses are the input to the PCM.
4.7L
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is bolted to the side of the engine cylinder block above the starter motor. It is positioned into a machined hole at the side of the engine block.
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is bolted to the side of the engine cylinder block above the starter motor. It is positioned into a machined hole at the side of the engine block.
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