Hard Start with trouble code 32

hi, i would like to advice you check the electronic idle speed control valve and also check engine coolant temp sensor. The ISC (idle speed control valve) is located somewhere below the throttle valve. the engine coolant temp sensor is located near distributor. it has a two wire connection. the sensor connector is usually green

the first sidekick ever. 1989. (and tracker)
the first few were made in Iwata japan then at CAMI (canada) then on.
first off this year, came with 2 engines, 1.3L carb and 1.6L TBI EFI.
so what engine? we can NEVER guess and engine, blind.
The CEL if a CEL , and TBI 1.6L engine G16A
that lamp can glow for 2 reasons in 1989-95.
Check engine. function
and what we call the NAG lamp.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/NAG-Lamp.html
the nag switch is hidden in 3 locations in 7 year span.
its just to make folks angry.... (Hiroshima>? revenge?)
on this car, if it has a NAG it on the bottom kick panel
between your legs, (toes)
and can never be seen. only felt (lacking a mirror)
NAG = federal (usa) mileage warning see if leaded fuel messed up the CAT ,deal,, (totally useless now)
We remove them at the cluster 3 wire connector forever.
so if present slide the switch 1 time.
now the CEL lamp can flash out flash codes.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html
hard cold starts, if CEL flashes 12s does it?
causes (top, not a guess) I do tests to find these but takes TOOLS.

1. never tuned up with all new spark parts and filters.
2. cam belt slipped. (60k part)
3. engine is flooding, high fuel pressure, (too high)
4. TBI injector o-ring leaking. flooding starts.
5. ECT wires fell off.
6. map hoses bad. or clogged end to end. from plenum to map sensor insides (nipple not clogged either)
7. not melted cat, runs fine hot.
8. not code 12s flashing (good) so what is it flashing. ?
9. stuck open EGR main, (that can bounce closed as you crank long then be ok... for a while, many old EGR like to stick just as you stop car and shut down) can be felt by hand on any 8v engine easy. the diaphram ring can be exercised with fingers.
10. IAC bad, stuck closed, preventing cold start air . and flooding.
11. ISC valve same.
12. Dash pot valve stuck retracted. (clod start vacuum start)
13. spark timed wrong , see cam belt slip.

Is the check engine light on? How long has it been since the engine was tuned up? A worn plug that is "hot soaked" can create a longer cranking time. Hot soaked means it may have some un-burned fuel in the cylinder since the first cold start. A weak or worn plug has a harder time getting this fuel burned out of the cylinder when more fuel is being added during a warm start.

Have you checked the cooling sensor?

probably Idle air control valve or EGR. under the dash there is a diagnostic port! with key off bridge terminal A & B turn key to on position (do not start) this will flash any trouble codes VIA the check engine light the first blink(s) are confirmation. then count blinks EXP,*** **= 32 , ***** ***= 53 , ** ********= 28... then just google GM OBD1 trouble codes and see what the problem is .

I'm having the same trouble with the flooding after warm start...if it's the temp sensor, would the temp gauge be working? It's in a 1991 Chevy van with an injected 350 carb.

These are all the definitions for your codes.
It's hard to give an exact cause for these codes because of there are a number of different items that could cause these.
The first one could be caused by Incorrect camshaft timing,
VCT solenoid valve stuck open or continuous oil flow to piston chamber,
Camshaft advance mechanism binding, or faulty VCT unit,
The others are most likely bad sensors.
I wish I could be more help but it's difficult to trouble shoot this kind of problem without having the vehicle here in front of me.
Good luck

P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)

P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0055 HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 1, Sensor 3)

Does the Check Engine light come ON when this happens? Whenever the "Check Engine" light comes on, there is always a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) stored in the ECM (Engine Control Module). You'll need an OBDII (On-Board-Diagnostics) scanner to retrieve any codes recorded/set in ECM. Otherwise, guesswork. I have MANY ideas that could send you on a wild goose chase. I strongly suspect EMS (Engine Management System) sensor beginning to malfunction as it warms up. First strong suspicion is the crank position sensor (CKP) - however,usually always sets a DTC (i.e., P0335, P0336). The next suspicion is the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. The ECM uses this sensor's signal to adjust fuel, timing, engine RPM, etc based on engine temp. If malfunctioning at a particuar point during engine warm up, it could be telling the ECM the temperature is LOWER or HIGHER than it ACTUALLY is, resulting in the ECM to increase fuel (flood it) or give it LESS fuel (starve it). If this malfunction lasts long enough, the ECM will usually set a DTC for that sensor circuit, either a Range/Performance code, or a "LOW Input" or "HIGH Input" code.

If your engine is cranking really strong make sure you have proper engine timing. If your engine is having a hard time cranking like its cranking really slow. You probably need to check your battery.