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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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Got a 92 blazer that the brake pedal goes to the floor and is spongy, but also fades/sinks when holding it. I've bled all 4 wheels twice, 1st time bled old out until new came through, felt spongy and goes to the floor, 2nd time I bled I had pumped 10 times then held to purge out more fluid, did that 3 times each wheel, made no difference. saw only a few little bubbles on a couple wheels, acting like tons of air in lines. has ABS, can the ABS master cylinder be bad? replaced the main master cylinder before I bled the brakes at all, made no difference. I also pre-filled and purged the new master cylinder after I got it. Went through 2 new ones thinking it was the master cylinder having the problem. If i possibly still have air in the lines, how many times will I have to pump and hold before the front and back lines purge completely so I know for sure it has no air?

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ZappaNut

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  • Chevrolet Master 960 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 30, 2010
ZappaNut
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Blead from the furthest point forward... so , if your master is on the firewall on the drivers side.. rear right , rear left , right front and then left front...

  • lytesp33d Oct 04, 2010

    didn't help, bleeding makes no difference. even tried another brake booster thinking maybe vacuum leak in it, everything is same, nothing at all better. Doesn't seem so much to feel like air in lines anymore, but weather you mash the pedal trying to lock up the tires or apply even and firm pressure, it's seems to stop at the same rate. Can't quite get even one tire to lock up solid as hard as I try, maybe that's the abs actually working but it feels like the pedal is sluggish and it takes way too long to stop, like the pedal is stiff and you can't seem to get it to go down fast enough to stop quick enough. I would also think if it's the abs doing it's job, it would make the pedal vibrate as well as the brakes, always smooth.

    Thinking of just running lines straight from the master cylinder to the wheels with maybe a junction block in between. No abs or any kind of braking assistance to interfere.

    I just can't think of anything else but the abs giving me problems right now.

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Hi Kathy, I'm guessing that you mean you've replaced the brake master cylinder. It helps to be as specific as possible, so we can help you in a specific way. Make sure that the brake fluid pipes connecting the master cylinder are sealing correctly. There must be no leakage from them at all. Fill the reservoir and keep it filled throughout the whole bleeding procedure by having someone topping up each time the level goes down. Begin the bleeding procedure at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and move one wheel at a time closer. The procedure is to push the pedal repeatedly to the floor and releasing to come full travel to the top of its movement. Repeat several times and while holding the pedal fully depressed to the floor open and close the bleeding valve on the wheel being bled before beginning the pumping action over. Once all wheels have been bled and you have reached the wheel closest to the master cylinder, if the pressure in the system is insufficient repeat the whole job until brake pedal pressure is normal. Look for signs of leakage on all four wheels in the event there is a leak on a wheel cylinder. The brake warning light should extinguish when the park brake is released and the ABS light when pressure is normal in the system, unless there is another separate fault. Finish up on the bleeding first and let me know how you get on. We'll tackle one job at a time. Regards John
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