1996 Chevrolet Blazer Logo
Posted on May 25, 2008
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Vacuum leak I have a 1996 chevrolet blazer s10. When i try to change the heater control switch from floor to vent or anyother position most if not all the air comes out of the defrost vent. Some say it is a leak behind the dash the other say it is a leak up by the motor. Any help would be appreciated.

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  • Anonymous Jun 12, 2008

    VENTS TO DASH DOES NOT WORK ALL AIR COMES OUT ON FLOOR OR DEFROST.

  • bigler Nov 20, 2008

    I have a 97 Chevy blazer, 4 wheel drive with a 4.3. I was having aproblem with the vents, they would randomly select and changethemselves from what was selected. As well While driving, when theblower is on in any mode... it started clicking and clinking from timeto time like a solenoid was going out or something. Tonight I tried the heat/defrost... it blew... but no heat now.
    Themotor and everything are like new and all the ac underhood is new andgreat... this clunking is new though... from about 2 months.
    Any help on this matter or how to fix it would be appreciated, thank you in advance.
    Iknow this might be a vacuum advance or some other switching issue... soplease point me towards where to look / what to replace.
    Thanks, -Steve
    Feel free to write me directly as well:
    [email protected]

  • dusty91 Jan 05, 2009

    I am having the same problem with the AC and getting it into 4 wheel drive. Where do you think the vacuum leak is?

  • kosrae71 May 11, 2010

    i have a 96 chevy blazer. how do i take the dash off in order to put a new stereo in.

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I have a 1992 chevy blazer s-10 type my heater blowes through the defrost and floor will not blow through vents on dash can you please help with problem thank you frank

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  • Posted on May 25, 2008
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I would say its in the dash unfortunately you will have to pull it out to inspect.

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Hey there. I've got a 96' blazer and this happened to me as well. Turned out that I was getting the 4 wheel drive checked out because it wasn't engaging and they found that a vacuum hose was loose. The mechanic said that when it is a vacuum hose, the blower won't engage correctly to the desired setting... usually just blows out the defrost. Hope that helps.

Ben

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  • Posted on Jan 13, 2009
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Your air leak is in the heater control switch. You have to replace this unit. I have done this in both S10 Blazer and S15 GMC. Remove the front dash cover and remove the control bolts. One control is electric and the other is air controled. You can get this unit from GM or take your chance and buy it from the wrecking yard or off EBay.

Now some one also posted that there 4X4 is not working also. This uint is controled by electronic control. The transfer case has a electric motor on it and is control by the switch on the dash only. There is a canister outside under the front right (pass) side fender that controls the locking gear for the front drive axel Chech this for air leaks.

Now for the banging in the heater unit. It is the blower motor. I have the same problem right now in my S15. It needs to be changed.

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The heater core is going bad in my blazer, but it still blows hot air. When I turn the control to switch the heat from vent to defrost or floor, it still blows out of the vent. How do I fix this?

THAT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH A HEATER CORE IF CORE IS GOING OUT IT WILL LEAK THATSOUNDS LIKE AN ACTUATOR ACTING UP OR VACCUUM LINE LEAK BEHIND DASH
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The 4X4 vacuum switch has gone bad and needs to be replaced, you can pick that switch up at Auto Zone or Parts Source for around $25.00 and the dealer for $65.00. Auto Zone can give you the step by step instructions to replacing it with common tools. It's located on the top of the Transfer Case drivers side, disconnect the three vacuum line clip from it and unscrew the vacuum switch with an 1 inch open end wrench. It's going to be a tight fit to get the wrench there, but can be done. I have a spare switch in my glove box, been there done that more then once. Once new switch installed, clip the vacuum lines back in and your good as new. As for the Defroster vent, it is the switch it self on the dash which works like a vacuum line valve to the different settings like defrost, vent or floor and at worst it's going to be the actuator vent door. But most of the time it's going to the the switch it self on the dash and you can pick that up at the parts store mentioned above or the salvage yard if you would like to practice on a salvage yard car first before you take yours apart. It take about 15 min to replace the switch from the dash from start to finish which is much faster then the 4X4 vacuum switch under the truck. Good luck and be safe.
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Takes at least 3 tries to start

check under the hood for vacuum leaks this could cause both the heater and the running problem

your flap is controled by engine vacuum and if there is a hose off under the hood you may fix both problems
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