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Posted on May 24, 2008
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The gauges have stopped working ? Fuse under dash seems to be OK ?

I have recently switched out the ignition system (plugs in) and now the gauges have all stopped working. I check the fuses (under the dash) and they all seem fine ? I'm stuck ! No Fuel, Oil, Amps or temp gauges working?
Help !

  • 1 more comment 
  • trishrothove Mar 11, 2009

    i had the same problem...found 1 blown fuse..changed it now 4 or the 6 gauges are working but not the temp gauge or the gas gauge....did you ever find the answer to your problem? can you email me at [email protected] and tell me if you found what the problem was....all i asked are stumped on this one

  • Anonymous Mar 26, 2014

    Fuel, oil pressure, and speedometer gauges not working

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    my fuel and temp gauge is not working and i cant find a where the fuse is to it

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  • Master 702 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 19, 2008
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Behind the dash is what they call a constant voltage regulator. It controls the guages. It's small and located behind the dash near speedo.

  • Scott Thompson Dec 20, 2013

    Does the 1988 300ZX have the same constant voltage regulator? If so, where is it located and what does it look like?

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There is a fuse for the warning lights and gauges. Yes, you checked the fuses and relays, but you need to check if power is there at the fuse, with the key in the on position.

Here's how turning the key to on causes the warning lights and gauges to turn on: From your ignition switch the on or run wire out of it will have power with key on. The run wire will also send power to the part of the fuse panel that is of the category "hot in run or on", where your fuse for the dash warn. lts. & gauges is- it may be labeled "meter" or "gauges" or like that. From the fuse, a hot wire goes into the harness for the instrument cluster-for the warning lights and gauges. The wire, like the fuse, is only hot in on or run.

The ignition's run wire may splice with a direct connection to some fuses, or more likely there may be an "ignition relay" that powers the "hot in run or on" fuses, and the run wire is used to turn the relay on. You could look for this relay just above or around the fuse panel under the dash. But the easiest place to start is to see if the fuse for the gauges has power to it with the key in on. If it does, the problem is up further on at the cluster connection or a ground for the gauges and cluster. If the fuse has no power available, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. That could be a faulty ignition relay.
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If you have a test light or voltmeter, you could check the fuse terminals for power at those times when the gauges are not working. If the fuse terminal shows no power when the key is on, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. This could be a relay that is not working- probably called an ignition relay-and it may be right around the fuse panel. If the fuse terminals do have power when key is on, but gauges are not working, the problem is between the fuse panel and the dash-will probably need to pull the dash cluster out to look further-possibly the electrical connector or connections at the cluster. If you wiggle the wiring around the fuse panel and the ignition switch and see the gauges move (key on), then you are wiggling a bad connection and can find and fix it.
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