The needle is going back and forth and car seems to wants to shut off.

you have a ground issue ,either under the dash (which is most likely you problem) or on the frame to motor or battery to motor

Multi funtion switch has to be replaced.

sounds more like cable problem, have them check it or yourself. had same problem way back when with 65 chevy, loosened cable from wheel than tightened again & worked fine

JUST DO THAT WEN IS AIR LEAK ON TOP MOTOR CHEK FOR LEAK

the little black pin is to stop the needle going back dont think a jump start would cause that but if when you jump start and terminals are reversed polarity if could fry the battery cels

hi
this problem appier somtimes when the crank sensor stuck or have problem
try to check it by obd this kind of sensor its hall sensor that can give you date 1 0 on ( off)

Try locating the fat needle sized actuator on each door...usually on the car body on the inside of each door...spray each one with PB Blaster, or WD 40 and manually move back and forth...dirt is usually the sticking problem...hope this helps...:)

First we would need to know when this occurs. Asuming the oil level is at the full mark!. If the pressure goes up during acceleration and down at idle when engine is fully warmed up, then this is normal. An engine requires 10 psi of oil pressure per 1,000 rpm ( ex. 20 psi at 2,000 rpm, 25 psi at 2,500 rpm, and so on ) . If the gauge is moving back and forth erratically at idle , i would say the gauge is bad. If it drops to 0 while accelerating I would say your oil pump is bad. If from time to time it seems to work and other times it seems not to work, I would say the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge is bad. If the pump failed you would start to here a Knocking noise from the engine in a short period of time. Use the above scenario's to narrow down what it may be.

DOES YOUR SPEEDODOMETER HAVE A NEEDLE OR IS IT DIGITAL? IF IT HAS A NEEDLE, THERE STANDS THE POSSIBILITY THAT YOU HAVE A BAD SPEEDO CABLE.

It sounds like a faulty voltage regulator, faulty alternator, or a bad ground. Try checking the voltage output with a voltmeter, preferably an analog (needle) type. If the needle is "bouncing" then the output of the alternator is not "steady". This voltage variation, if severe enough, could cause your electronic meters (such as your speedometer) to perform erratically.

Also, if you have performed any aftermarket modifications to the electrical system (such as high power stereo installs, etc), temporarily disconnect these and see if the problem resolves. A stock alternator for this car only puts out around 70-80 amps. It doesn't leave much of a margin for additional current draw from high power add-ons.