Engine firing timing set getting fuel but wont run. pick-up coil?

No fuel ! Spray carburetor cleaner into the engine through the throttle body . SECURITY light lit ? Injectors firing ? Just replacing parts isn't the way , you have to test . If there is spark , yellow or not it's fuel related . Or engine crank , cam timing off . Some good videos on youtube .

rechk plugs firing order. chk soliniod and coil r ok, rechk fuel is getting into engine- choking usually determines that, u can smell the over choked engine. I f engine turning & choked hold throtel to floor while cranking and leave there until it fires. if no firing happends it must be electrical. rechk electrical connections. Cheers

Try a compression test, as it sounds like your car has jumped timing. (Belt or timing chain)

If you do have fuel pressure, but there is no fuel getting into the cylinders to run the engine, then the engine does not have an injector signal or pulse to open the fuel injectors.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.

It can be going weak on you. The pressure of the pump will have to be checked to see

i do believe that's what it is if it will not let get a diagnostic or if it will not let you access the computer the computer is bad.

the car wont start? do you mean the engine wont turn over or it wont fire or run? if the car does not run but it turn over, check the basic..see if you have sparks and fuel, then check all your fuse pertaining to engine and ignition. the car need to have both thing in order for the engine to run. If you getting both sparks and fuel you engine may have jump time especially with older car with high miles, it the sign timing belt getting worn, you don't want it to break. if you don't get fire from spark plug then you may have a bad coil,distubutor,rotor or timing sensor. if you get no fuel, fuse blown, bad fuel pump relay or fuel pump it self. hope that help some ..good luck

what engine does it have? 2.8 ? if so replce pick up coil in distributor /4.3 and 2.5 will do this also it affects pulse to injectors and on time firing

sounds like a bent push rod or bad starter