Is there a woodruff key that is located on the outside of the crankshaft that runs the timing chains?

use a small chisel and a small ball pein hammer (engineers hammer). place the chisel on the end of the key angled to push the key out. tap with hammer and it will move up and out.

Check to see if there is any wobble in the crankshaft pulley, it should be spinning straight and true. If it begins to wobble, you may hear a ticking noise, a loss in gas mileage, and later the tick will become a knock. I had a similar issue with my 2001 Kia Sportage, and it turned out to be the crankshaft woodruff key.

This caused a miss-alignment which altered the correct timing, which in turn was causing the knocking, reduced MPG's, hesitation upon acceleration, and a slow return to idle RPM's. If this turns out to be your problem, the correct way to repair it is to replace the crankshaft, woodruff key, and possibly the pulley gear. Another option is a rebuilt, or crate engine, neither option is cheap. I chose a third option which some have claimed to have exceeded 60,000 miles using a carefully crafted, tightly fit, secondary woodruff key, and carefully bond the key in place, the gear to the shaft, all using JB Weld high temp two part epoxy, and let cure for 48 hrs. In my case so far so good. Gas mileage went from 12-MPG's to 19-MPGs, acceleration's back, and hoping for the best.

Hi, this engine user copper links on the chain align the copper links with the marks shown on the diagram below. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

To install:

1. Compress the timing chain tensioner plunger in a soft jaw vise and install a retaining clip to hold the plunger in place.
2. Remove the tensioner.
3. If the copper links are not visible on the timing chains, mark one link on each end of the chain.
4. Install the left and right timing chain guides and tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
5. Position the lower end of the left timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the copper link with the timing mark on the outer flange of the crankshaft sprocket.
6. Position the timing chain on the left camshaft sprocket with the camshaft sprocket timing mark aligned with the copper link.
7. Position the left timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the timing chain tensioner. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
8. Remove the retaining clip from the tensioner plunger.
9. Position the lower end of the right timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the copper link with the timing mark on the outer flange of the crankshaft sprocket.
10. Position the timing chain on the right camshaft sprocket with the camshaft sprocket timing mark aligned with the copper link.
11. Position the left timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the timing chain tensioner. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
12. Remove the retaining clip from the tensioner plunger.
13. Ensure correct alignment of all timing chain links and sprocket timing marks.
14. Install the camshaft roller followers and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts. See the procedure under Camshaft.
15. Install the crankshaft sensor ring on the crankshaft.
    
    
    

    Fig. Timing chain link and sprocket timing mark alignment-4.6L engine
    

16. Apply sealant to the front cover mating surface as shown.
    
    
    

    Fig. Sealant application to the front cover mating surface-4.6L engine
    

17. Install a new gasket on the front cover, then install the front cover and hand tighten the bolts.
18. Tighten the front cover bolts in the sequence shown to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
19. Tighten the front cover-to-oil pan bolts in the sequence shown to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm), plus an additional 60 degrees
    
    
    

    Fig. Front cover bolt tightening sequence-4.6L engine
    
    
    
    

    Fig. Front cover-to-oil pan bolt tightening sequence-4.6L engine
    

20. Lubricate the engine front cover and oil seal lip with clean engine oil and install the seal using a seal installer.
21. Apply sealant to the Woodruff key slot in the crankshaft pulley, then press on the crankshaft damper.
22. Tighten the crankshaft damper as follows:
    1. Step 1: 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
    2. Step 2: Loosen the bolt one full turn.
    3. Step 3: 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
    4. Step 4: 90 degrees.
    
    
23. Connect the crankshaft position sensor connector.
24. Install the power steering pump and tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
25. Install the wiring harness retainer to the power steering stud bolt.
26. Install the power steering pump pulley shield.
27. Install the water pump pulley.
28. Install the J bracket to the engine front cover stud bolt.
29. Install both left and right camshaft position sensor connectors.
30. Install both left and right radio interference capacitors.
31. Connect the hoses from the coolant crossover.
32. Install the valve covers. See the procedure under Cylinder Head.
33. Install the right side idler pulley.
34. Install the accessory drive belt.
35. Install the coolant degas bottle.
36. Connect the negative battery cable.
37. Fill the crankcase with clean engine oil.
38. Start the engine. Check for leaks and proper operation.

The timing gear has a rectangular groove in it that fits over a woodruff key pressed into the end of the crankshaft. Turn the gear in the proper direction, one side is probably marked front. Line up the rectangular groove and push it a just a bit. Then gently tap it down with a rubber mallet.

Make sure the flat part of the woodruff key is parallel to the crankshaft or the gear might not go on.
If its not parallel, gently tap it until it is parallel. Then put the gear on.

5.0L and 5.7L Engines To Remove:

1. Remove the crankshaft balancer.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the water pump.
4. Drain the engine oil.
5. Remove all engine oil pan fasteners except two nuts at rear of engine.
6. Separate the engine oil pan from the front cover.
7. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor wire.
   
   
8. Remove engine front cover.
   
   
9. Pry the oil seal from the front cover.
10. Inspect the front cover seal area and crankshaft balancer seal area for damage.
    
    
11. Rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks on the crankshaft and the camshaft sprockets are aligned.
12. Remove the crankshaft position sensor reluctor ring.
    
    NOTE: Free play on the slack side of the camshaft timing chain must measure less than 0.43 inch (11Mm) or timing chain and sprockets must be replaced.
    
13. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts.
14. Remove the camshaft sprocket.
15. Remove the camshaft timing chain. NOTE: Do not turn the crankshaft assembly after the timing chain has been removed in order to prevent damage to the piston assemblies or the valves.
    
    
    
16. Remove the crankshaft sprocket using J 5825-A.
17. Remove the crankshaft balancer woodruff keys (if required).

To Install:

1. Install the crankshaft balancer woodruff keys into the crankshaft.
2. Align the crankshaft sprocket keyway with the crankshaft balancer woodruff key. WARNING
   Wear eye protection when installing crankshaft sprocket.
   
   
   
3. Use J 5590 to install crankshaft sprocket.
4. Install the camshaft sprocket and camshaft timing chain.
   
   
5. Ensure that the crankshaft sprocket alignment mark is in the 12 o'clock position and the camshaft sprocket alignment mark is at the 6 o'clock position.
6. Install the camshaft sprocket bolts and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts;
   • Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
7. Install the crankshaft position sensor reluctor ring until completely seated against crankshaft sprocket. NOTE: The composite type engine front cover and seal must not be reused. Always install a new engine cover with a new seal.
   
8. Install new engine front cover and bolts.
   • Torque bolts to: 106 in. lbs. (12 Nm)
9. Clean sealer from corners of oil pan gasket where it meets the engine front cover.
   
   
10. Apply a 0.196 in (5 mm) bead of adhesive, GM P/N 12346141 or equivalent, 1.0 in (25 mm) long to the engine front cover to engine block junction.
11. Install oil pan bolts.
    • Torque bolts to: 106 in. lbs. (12 Nm)
12. Tighten oil pan nuts.
    • Torque bolts to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
13. Connect the crankshaft position sensor wire.
14. Install the water pump.
15. Install the crankshaft balancer.
16. Fill the engine to the proper level with oil.
17. Fill the engine to the proper level with coolant.
18. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

The woodruff key for crankshaft may have sheared so the camshaft wont turn, or the timing chain tensioner may have failed.A compreesion test is advised.

Crankshaft Damper/Pulley counterclockwise to remove pulley:
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the drive belts from the crankshaft damper.
2. Remove the crankshaft damper-to-crankshaft bolt. Hold the crankshaft stationary by placing a suitable tool in the ring gear teeth on the flywheel. Fig. 1: Use a breaker bar to remove the crankshaft damper bolt
   Fig. 2: The crankshaft can be held stationary by using a suitable tool to place between the flywheel teeth
   Fig. 3: Be sure to lubricate the threads of the crankshaft damper bolt to obtain a proper torque reading
   
   
3. Remove the crankshaft damper from the crankshaft by pulling it straight off the shaft. A puller may be required to remove the damper from the shaft. Be careful not to lose the woodruff key when removing the crankshaft damper. Fig. 4: The crankshaft damper can sometimes be pulled from the shaft by hand
   Fig. 5: A puller may be required to remove the crankshaft damper
   NOTE: If working on a VE30DE or VQ30DE engine, it would be a good idea to replace the crankshaft oil seal when the crankshaft damper is removed. Fig. 6: The timing chain cover oil seal should be replaced whenever the crankshaft damper is removed; this seal is leaking severely
   Fig. 7: This crankshaft damper may have a problem sealing properly due to the groove that was worn into it from the seal
   To install:
   
4. Install the crankshaft damper onto the shaft, making sure the woodruff key is in place. Dip the damper bolt in fresh oil and torque the crankshaft damper-to-crankshaft bolt to the following specifications:
   • VG30E engine — 90–98 ft.lbs. (123–132 Nm.)
   • VE30DE engine — 123–130 ft.lbs. (167–177 Nm.)
   • VQ30DE engine — 29–36 ft.lbs. (39–49 Nm.) followed by 60–66°clockwise angle torque
5. Install the drive belts to the crankshaft damper; be sure to properly set belt tension.

You are correct, this key does drive both. While I have never tried to remove the keway with out both pulley and lower sprocket you may be able to (my gut says no but anything is worth trying once) I'd position the keyway at the 12 o'clock postion and with a good pair of needle nose pliers see if the key will roll out as you pull up and away with it. If it will not you'll of course have to remove the front of the engine and pull the timing belt, if over 60K miles on belt go ahead and replace with new.

I hope this may have assited and good luck!

Tom

its more than likely its your timing, check to see if your crank shaft TDC marks align correctly, I also had this issue and it was the woodruff key in the crankshaft rod broke which throughs your timing off. my key hole was in really bad shape so i J B welded it which worked for a little while

For timing, on 1981 and later 4 cyl engines (from the Haynes manual):
1. Turn camshaft so both valves for #1 cylinder are closed, and turn the crankshaft so #1 piston is at top dead center (woodruff key should be pointing up).
2. Engage the camshaft sprocket (with stamped numbers facing out) into the timing chain, and install the chain around the crankshaft sprocket. The bright links on the chain should be aligned with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket (on the right side as you look at it) and with the number "2" stamped into the camshaft sprocket, which should also be on the right side as you look at it.
3. Install the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft, aligning the camshaft dowel pin with the number "2" hole near the center of the sprocket.

For the firing order and wiring routing for the 8 plug 4 cylinder engine: (Plugs on the intake manifold side are coded "I", and on the exhaust manifold side are coded "E")

Wire to 1I should be connected to tower on the distributor facing directly to the front of the vehicle. Going counterclockwise from there, the order is (1I), 2E, 3I, 1E, 4I, 3E, 2I, and 4E.