WHEN PULLING AWAY FROM STATIONARY A CLUNKING IS HERD FROM REAR AXLE THIS HAPPENS NEARLY EVERY TIME . ITS IS NOT THERE AT ALL WHEN TRAVELLING ALLONG NO MATTER HOW FAR IS TRAVELLED. IT IS VERY NOTICABLE IF THERE IS A SERIES OF ROUNDABOUTS WHERE YOU HAVE TO STOP AND START OFF.
I BELIEVE THE VEHICLE HAS A SLIP DIFF
Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.
If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.
With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.
Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.
Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.
If equipped with a trac-lok limited slip the clips that hold the clutches together sometimes break and move out of position and wear into the housing. if not caught in time the rear end could destroy itself
More than likely you have a wheel bearing that is toast. If your not too mechanically inclined, you should bring it in before she leaves you stranded.
Sounds like your universals are bad and need to be replaced.
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i have a 96 jeep grand cherokee ltd edition with a slip diff it was making a noise so i've discovered when i was replacing the one rear tyre i've replaced it with a 15" instead of a 16" but it is still making the noise and overheating the diff. I've replaced the the crown wheel but is still making the noise and over heating. When i disconnect the front propshaft it does'nt over heat anymore. i need a manual for the axle if anyone can help!?
Same here when i stop fast and as the engine and transmision finally when they catch up it makes a clunk or if im going down the road and let off the gas and the engin slows me down and as i step on the gas to get back up to speed it does it agen is this a major problem
Mine has the exact same problem, now I did replace the bearings (Who designed this 8-1/4 chysler rear axle anyway. . What a piece) and it did not go away. Turns out this is normal with the design the way it is. The rear springs offer little to no support for the rearend twisting as you take off from a stop. You are hearing the shackles traveling and hitting their stops. I will try to get this on video to show you what is happening.
I have just bought a second hand 1998 cherokee, it has the clunking when i pull away, having read others im not too worried, however the garage i bought it from said that it was not uncommon for this model to have a whirring noise from the rear axle when driving.
As yet i have done nothing to try to stop it ...is there any need?
Are they telling me the truth or have i bought a bum jeep?
James
loud clank when stoping and taking offAll ready replaced rear ball joint could this be another bushing on the outer ends of the upper wish bone A arm?
i have a jeep cherokee sport 2001 with the exact same problem if you find anything let me know please. my email address is [email protected]
Thank You
Obaid
my 1998 jeep grand cherokee larado does it too when I back up for a few seconds.
this happens in the leaf spring models. and happens from a stopped to acceleration. i have had 2 cherokee's and both have the same noise. and for years. nothing ever fell out.! yes leaf spring noise.
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