Trying too hook up marker lights on my headache rack. I have (6) l.e.d's mounted and have already verified that they will work by running a test wire off the battery. WHat wire should i hook them up too so that when i turn the running lights on, they light up. I dont want turn signals

What about them ? What front lights ? Headlamps , park lamps, marker lamps ? They don't work ?

Exterior Lamps
The exterior lighting system consist of the following lamps:
• The Headlamps
• The Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
• The Clearance Lamps (Y92 roof rack only)
• The Cornering Lamps
• The Front Fog Lamps
• The Rear Fog Lamps (Export)
• The Park, Tail and Marker Lamps
• The Turn Signal Lamps
• The Stop Lamps
• The Backup Lamps

Park, Tail, Marker, License, and Clearance Lamps
The park, tail, marker, license, and clearance (Y92 only) lamps are turned on when the headlamp switch is placed in the PARK or ON position or anytime the headlights are requested. The I/P BATT fuse in the engine wiring harness junction block supplies battery positive voltage to both the park lamp relay switch contacts and the park lamp coil circuit. The body control module (BCM) provides a ground or control circuit to the park lamp relay coil circuit. When the park lamps are turned on, the BCM energizes the park lamp relay. Current flow is from the park lamp relay to the individual park lamp circuit fuses and to their respective park, tail, marker, and license lamps. The front park and marker lamps are grounded at G107 and G103. The tail lamps are grounded at G401 and G402. The license lamps are grounded at G401. When equipped with the Y92 roof rack option, the clearance lamps are grounded at G302. If the driver places the headlight switch in the ON position after the ignition switch has been turned OFF, the park, tail, marker, license, and clearance lamps will remain on until turned off or the battery runs dead.
The T PARK fuse in the rear fuse-relay block supplies battery positive voltage to a separate park lamp circuit connected to the trailer wiring harness.

To the dealer or some other qualified repair shop. Light's are controlled by SJB - smart junction box , ford's body control module .
Principles of Operation
The smart junction box (SJB) monitors the headlamp switch position by sending voltage reference signals on multiple circuits to the headlamp switch. At any given time, one of the signal circuits is routed to ground. If the SJB does not detect any of the inputs to the headlamp switch is active (routed to ground) for 5 seconds, the SJB turns on the exterior lights and keeps them on for 10 minutes after the ignition switch is turned off (or 10 minutes from the time the SJB does not detect any headlamp switch input if the ignition switch was already off). If the SJB detects multiple circuits short to ground, the SJB implements a planned strategy depending on the multiple inputs received. If either of these situations occur, the SJB should NOT be ruled immediately as being at fault. This is normal behavior of the SJB design as it has detected a fault with the inputs from the headlamp switch.
When the SJB receives an input from the headlamp switch indicating a request for the parking lamps, the SJB energizes the parking lamp relay (internal to the SJB), which supplies voltage to the exterior lamps.

• One or more parking, rear or license plate lamps is inoperative

• Fuse
• Wiring, terminals or connectors
• Bulb holder
• Rear lamp assembly (vehicles without pickup bed)
• Cab marker lamp
• Trailer tow exterior mirror (if equipped)
• SJB

• Go To Pinpoint Test O .

Pinpoint Test O: One Or More Parking, Rear or License Plate Lamps Is Inoperative
Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 92 , Parking, Rear and License Lamps for schematic and connector information.
Normal Operation When the headlamp switch is placed in the PARKING LAMPS ON position, the smart junction box (SJB) provides a ground for the parking lamp relay coil (integrated into the SJB). When the parking lamp relay is energized, voltage is routed through circuit CLS30 (VT/WH) to the front, rear, license plate, dual rear wheel marker, trailer tow exterior mirrors (if equipped) and cab marker lamps (if equipped). Ground is provided to the rear and license plate lamps through circuit GD176 (BK/WH). Ground is provided to the LH and RH front parking and side marker lamps through circuits GD122 (BK) and GD124 (BK/VT), respectively. Ground is provided to the trailer tow mirrors through circuit GD179 (BK/VT). Ground is provided to the cab marker lamps through circuit GD115 (BK/GY).

This pinpoint test is intended to diagnose the following:
• Fuse
• Wiring, terminals or connectors
• Bulb holder
• Rear lamp assembly (vehicles without pickup bed)
• Cab marker lamp
• Trailer tow exterior mirror (if equipped)
• SJB
• PINPOINT TEST O: ONE OR MORE PARKING, REAR OR LICENSE PLATE LAMPS IS INOPERATIVE CAUTION: Use the correct probe adapter(s) when making measurements. Failure to use the correct probe adapter(s) may damage the connector.
  Test Step Result / Action to Take O1 DETERMINE IF ALL THE PARKING LAMPS ARE INOPERATIVE
  • Key in OFF position.
  • Place the headlamp switch in the PARKING LAMPS ON position.
  • Are all the parking lamps inoperative?
  Yes
  VERIFY the SJB fuse 22 (15A) is OK.
  
  If the vehicle is equipped with cab marker lamps, GO to O8 .
  
  If the vehicle is not equipped with cab marker lamps, VERIFY the SJB fuse 22 (15A) is OK. If OK, GO to O2 .
  
  No
  If the cab marker lamps are illuminated and all the remaining parking lamps are inoperative, GO to O2 .
  
  If all the cab marker lamps are inoperative, GO to O3 .
  
  If both trailer tow mirrors are inoperative, GO to O5 .
  
  For all others, GO to O6 .

If the high-mount brake lite doesn't work, voltage circuit. I'd run a new wire just for testing, for testing, it doesn't matter how you route it. Just to see if high-mount brake lite will work. If it works then you can worry about routing the wire so it is out of the way. In my opinion it doesn't matter how you route the new wire.
The body info on your vehicle should tell you how to remove this or that panel.
I may not have given you the answer you wanted? If so, My bad.

Exterior lights are power by tow vehicle, or you can hook to 12Volt battery or charge circuit. When your unit is plugged to hydro you should have one tab on tow plug that has +12vdc coming to it from converter circuit in trailer. Find that with a test light or meter, then when your sure you have proper wire in plug for running lights, use a jumper wire from one to the other to power lights temporarily while you find each problem with running lights .

Hi William, To begin, the usual color coding on American vehicles is black is ground. To test this, take a long length of cable and a test light. Connect one side of the test light to battery positive and and the other cable connect to the black wires one at a time. If the light comes on normally you have proved the ground connection, then do the same with the other. Next connect the test light to the green cable and the other cable to the black. Press the brake pedal and observe if the light illuminates. If all is well, connect the black cable from the third brake light to the black cable of your car and the red cable from the after market brake light to one green cable from your car an insulate the other. Then go ahead and mount the third brake light. Regards John

I have the same problem.

Its a long process. You actually have to verify each wire with a volt meter. The easier option is to buy an after market wiring harness from a company like painless wiring. It will come with all the correct connectors already on it.

Hello,

Please do not be baffled. To replace the turn signal bulb on Your car is quite simple, all You need to do is to get a screwdriver and follow the steps below:

1. Open the hood and locate the mounting screws for the outboard marker-light assembly just above the light. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver, then remove the assembly, setting it aside for now.
2. Locate the two mounting screws on top of the turn-signal light assembly under the side-marker lens. Remove the two screws with a Phillips screwdriver, then set the screws aside. Slide the turn signal out and locate the socket on the back of the assembly.
3. Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the socket out of the assembly. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket and discard it. Install a new bulb into the socket, pushing it in until is seats. Position the socket back into the rear of the light assembly, turn it clockwise to lock it in place, then slide the assembly back into the front of the Jeep.
4. Install the mounting bolts that secure the turn-signal light assembly, tightening the screws with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Position the side marker-light assembly to the side of the Jeep and install the retaining bolts.
5. Tighten the retaining bolts for the side-marker lights with a Phillips screwdriver, then close the hood. Test the repair by turning the lights on and visually verify that the light is working..

Hope this helped. Thank You for using FixYa!!!

Depending on what connector you are using, here is a link to the wiring diagrams:

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

You may have to use an OHM meter to test the leads at the tow vehicle side to verify correct placement. Good ground is essential too.

It sounds like your have may have your brake light and running lights crossed on your wiring harness to the trailer. Good luck and hope this help's