I have 2004 E150. There is a rattle in the driver's side rear when the van hits a pot hole. This is a new sound. I looked under the van a saw what looks like air conditioner tubing going up and coming back down. Is that a compressor, evaporator, or what. What is causing the rattle?

SOURCE: Fix? for sunroof rattle

remove the broken plastic pieces :) or lubricate the guides very well with grease.

SOURCE: 1999 Econoline E150 Van mirror replacement

Remove the door handle bezel.Remove the power window/door lock switch bezel.Remove the rearview mirror fastener trim cover.Remove the 4 door trim panel retaining screws.One that was behind the mirror trim cover,behind the switch panel,behind the door handle bezel,and one at the bottom corner.Lift the door trim panel up from the door to disengage the trim panel clips.Remove the front radio speaker. Disconnect the power mirror wiring connector.Remove the 3 bolts to the mirror.

SOURCE: Rubbing or grinding noise coming from Driver side rear tire/wheel

I had the same problem that based on interner research is common for Fords trcuks/suvs. The common problem fro rear humming "rubbing"sound might be the rear wheel bearings/seal. These will need to be replaced as it will progressivly get worse and the noise louder and eventually the bearings can sieze. I would hesitate to take to a ford dealer if I were you as it can run $500-900. Take to mechanic that knows how to replace wheel bearings and seals. My mechanic replaced them for about $150. and the bearing and seals are around $40. A good way to test this is to raise the wheel were you can freely spin by hand...if does not spin or there is a lot of friction then it might be the wheel bearings.
Good Luck

Marvin

• 85242 Answers
• Posted on Feb 19, 2010

SOURCE: 97 ford e150 van inside windshield steams up. is

the heater core is located in the black box that is in the pictures (see below). To get access to it, you will need to remove the blower housing. The blower housing will separate from the main HVAC box, and will give you some space once it is out. Then we need to wrestle the main box loose from the firewall. That means dealing with the A/C pipes, heater hoses, vacuum hoses, mounting stud nuts under the hood and mounting bolts inside. Once the box is moving, the dash needs to "get floppy" so you can pull back the passenger side far enough to give the main HVAC box enough room pull away from firewall, and to "roll" back towards you. At this point the heater pipes will be visible, and the cover that contains the heater can be removed. It's a big job. Your car has A/C. The description in the haynes book is for a car w/o A/C. If you're not comfortable with plastic dash board removal, this job is not for you

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SOURCE: Looking for Fuse Panel diagram

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
fuse box in owners manual