1999 Chevy Cavalier Trying to get this ready for my kid to go back to college. Recently replaced both front tires, brakes, drivers wheel bearing and exhaust leak. The car makes a lot of road noise while driving. I do not believe it is exhaust, if cruising say at 55 put it in neutral the noise remains the same. Engine RPM doe not effect the noise. While cruising a long right hand turn will quiet the tone to almost normal left hand turns remains the same. Both front struts probally need replacing since it is a little rough over bumps. The previous tires were worn uneven toe in condition. No alignment was done. Could this be an alignment problem it is pretty loud? What else should I be looking at?

I would guess it is your wheel hub, but if it occurs while the car is on and not moving, it might be your a/c compressor. When they go out they make a terrible grinding noise.

I would have the front wheel bearing adjustment checked first as if they are loose the rotor will be rubbing on the pads and the vibration will be wheel wobbling on the loose bearings Unless you replaced the bearings with new ones then they will fail especially if the adjustment was too tight and too much grease was used.

If steering wheel shakes bad tire on front. If whole car shakes bad tire on rear. Or tires could be out of balance. If steering wheel shakes when brakes applied, front rotors are warped.

Inner, (Large), wheel bearing has failed. This has caused the grease seal to fail.
Solution is to replace the bearing, and seal.

1.Check the bearing race in the brake rotor. If any pits, scoring, or other evidence of break down is present, the bearing race must be replaced also.

2.Check the outer wheel bearing and bearing race also. The inner bearing receives the most wear, but cleaning, and inspection of both bearings, and races is a standard procedure.

3.Observe the area on the spindle where the grease seal contacts. Insure that the spindle area is of good repair, and no scoring is evident.

The Black residue that you observe is grease mixed with brake dust.

The vehicle must be jacked up in the front, with safety stands placed in the proper area on both sides. Wheel chocks should be used behind the rear tires. The vehicle should be on a flat hard surface.

The wheel/tire is removed, then the brake caliper. The caliper is not removed from the brake hose, but hung from a hanger device, from the frame of the vehicle. (Small rubber tie down strap? Wire clothes hanger?)

Then the dust cap is removed, cotter pin, and spindle nut. Ease the brake rotor out, be ready to catch the outer bearing. Remove the brake rotor.

Rotor laying on two small wood blocks, (2x4's? 4x4?), blocks under rotor face. (Where the brake pads rub against)
Blocks placed so area of grease seal is not resting on them. Rotor is laying on blocks with outside of rotor facing up. (Outside of rotor faces outside of Tahoe)

Take a long punch, and tap out the grease seal from the inside of the rotor. Through the hole where the spindle goes through. Be careful that the punch is resting on the metal ring of the seal, and not the bearing race edge.

usually if noise is made when turning right it would be the right wheel bearing easiest way to check would be to lift the car off the ground on that side until tire clears the ground and spin the wheel to see if it makes noise also try grabbing the wheel on the top and bottom at the same time and see if you can move the wheel back and forth checking for slack.

Watch out! You might have a loose wheel! Check those wheel nuts. If not, a loose brake caliper, or last if not least, a bad wheel bearing. Don't drive it until you find out what the heck is wrong! Could be dangerous.

remove tire remove axel nut (large nut in center of hub)remove brake rotor and caliper turn hub until you can see 3 bolts through round hole in hub turn hob until you remove all 3 bolts. Bolts are in triangel pattern. remove hub and bearing. good luck

fix it or park it. it will come off quicker than you think if driven

ck pwr str fluid for low level no 2 sounds like wear detector on brake pads. tire wheel off ck pads see it wear indicator is in contact with rotor

hope2help shack

Place the bike on a stand, disconnect the cable, remove the wheel, set the wheel brake side up, use the bolt slightly inserted in the drum, or two oposing screw drivers around the drum to pull it from the wheel. Once pulled, remove the springs and shoes,lightly sand the inner drum on the wheel, install new pads and springs, spray both drums with brake clean, reassemble drums and wheel, install the wheel, and then adjust cable tension and brake pressure at first the wheel, and then at the bars. Test and readjust as needed.