I have a 93 firebird v6 3.4l car was running warm replaced tstat, water pump, tensioner pully, temp sending unit, fan relay, radiator cap, reservoir cap still running real warm, turn on heater blows cool air doesn't get warm at all.stop a traffic lights starts to run hot' then cools down to 240 been running at 220 turn on a/c runs warm quick thanks

possible and an accredited radiator shop will be able to do a flow test to check that
unfortunately , it indicates a gasket or cracked problem so have a compression test done to eliminate that
if that test proves good then have the thermostat removed and checked/replaced if the engine runs a viscous fan hub then check that as well
viscous fan hub failure is most noticeable when stopped at lights ( temp gauge goes up but comes back down when moving along the road) temp rises in slow moving traffic , using high engine rpm as in up hill or any condition where the air is not moving through the radiator unless the vehicle has speed
if you have electric fans then the problem may be in the coolant SENSOR unit that sends the temp to the ECM to switch on the fans

How do you know it gets hot? Are you going by the temperature gauge on the dash? Or have you checked under the hood and found out the engine really is running hot? ...Reason I ask is, something just doesn't sound right in your description. After just 5 minutes from starting and driving away, the engine would not yet be at normal operating temperature. That would explain the heater not yet warm. But the temp. gauge says hot?
If so, I would replace the temperature sending unit on the engine. the one for the dash gauge, and see if that was the problem-not reading the temp. accurately.
Couple of other things: Are you sure you got all the air out of the coolant system? Start the car with the radiator cap off and let it run until the engine is warmed up fully, then shut it off and install the cap. Does your reservoir tank stay about half full where it should be, between the full-hot and full-cold marks?
If your problem persists. I would have the coolant system pressure tested, and see if you could get a true temperature reading of the coolant when it seems to be running hot.
Good luck.

Try connecting your fans directly to the battery to know if they are working. If they don't replace your fans. If they are ok, then change the thermostat.
Try this:
When engine cold, remove radiator cap, then fill the radiator with water and start the engine. If water jumps out of the radiator and continues going out as the engine warms up, then you have a bad head gasket and that's why is running hot.

It could be the water pump , or something else , like a faulty thermostat. Where is the coolant leaking from ? If it is leaking from the water pump , then yes , your pump might be toast.
If the thermostat is no good , the engine will warm up to normal temp , and then overheat quite quickly. As it overheats and the coolant expands and boils , it could back up into the overflow reservoir and leak out onto the ground. You need to get someone to diagnose the problem ASAP , running your engine in an overheat condition could very quickly blow your head gasket and/or warp a cylinder head. If you can , please post a bit more info. Does it run but at a higher than normal temp. Does it only overheat when stopped in traffic etc.
Could be water pump , or thermostat , or plugged up radiator , or nonfunctioning cooling fans.

Check the coolant temperature sensor (not the sender). Check that connection is clean and good. If you have electric radiator fans do they engage when car is hot. If nor check the fuse and the relay unit connections (under the front by the left inside fender). If you suspect the relay run a positive wire from the battery positive terminal directly to the fan. If the fan runs check the voltage to the relay and the voltage from it when triggered. If the relay is OK wiggle the wires on the coolant sender.

You would need to check out the different cooling components. The radiator cap, thermostat, fan for radiator (car should run at 195 degrees), is anything blocking the face of the radiator, are any of the cooling hoses kinked or collapsed, is the water pump circulating the coolant, is thw belt still on the water pump?

You may want to do a inspection of your cooling system, here's a list that might help,

• Check the thermostat, if it's defective replace it.
• Check the coolant in the reservoir tank, it should be at the proper full level.
• Sometimes when you change a thermostat there's a possibility you could get air in your coolant lines from having the coolant system opened up, this could keep your coolant from circulating through your system, if so you will need to bleed the air out of the coolant system.
• The water pump should be inspected for leaking coolant out of the weep hole's, when a water pump go'es bad it may leak coolant, which would mean the seals on the pump are bad, also listen for squealing noise's coming from the pump when the car is started, if it squeals the bearings are bad, there is also a possibility the water pump fins are wore down from corrosion, there is no way to inspect this without removing the pump.
• check the drive-belt for wear and tension, a bad tensioner or a bad drive-belt could have an effect on the operation of the water pump.
• check the pressure cap on the coolant reservoir tank for good pressure, when you remove the cap you should hear a hissing sound this means you have good pressure in your cooling system, check for corrosion or build up on the cap, clean the cap if necessary, also check the coolant in the reservoir tank, it should be clean, if not you might need to have the cooling system flushed, during the flush you can observe if the coolant has a good flow through the system.
• check the large upper and lower radiator hose's for crack's, swelling, and proper coolant flow.
• Check the operation of the cooling Fan, and circuit, cooling fans use relays and fuses, some vehicles use more than one cooling fan, if your vehicle has two cooling fans there should be two relays and two fuses one for each fan, first visually inspect the fuses if one or both are bad replace them, you can test the relay or relays for continuity by removing them and doing a proper continuity test according to your relays circuit diagram.
• Check the coolant temperature sensor, most coolant temperature sensors are located directly in the thermostat housing, this sends information to your pcm which determines when to turn your cooling fan on and off, if it's defective replace it.
• Inspect the radiator grill for damage or debris build up.
  

most cars have two electric cooling fans ...one cools the engine and the other one turns on with the A/C to handle the additional heat lead.  Check the fuses and relays. 

Everything in car is fused. The fans are controlled by a thermal sensor. You will need a wiring diagram to test for a faulty sensor.

There could be a number of things causing your vehicle to overheat, you'll need to do some trouble shooting to find out what the problem is, here's a list of things that might help,

• Check the thermostat, if it's defective replace it.
• Check the coolant in the reservoir tank, it should be at the proper full level.
  
• Sometimes when you change a thermostat there's a possibility you could get air in your coolant lines from having the coolant system opened up, this could keep your coolant from circulating through your system, if so you would need to bleed the air out of the coolant system.
  
• The water pump should be inspected for leaking coolant out of the weep hole's, when a water pump go'es bad it may leak coolant, which would mean the seals on the pump are bad, also listen for squeeling noise's coming from the pump when the car is started, if it squeels the bearings are bad, there is also a possibility the water pump fins are wore down from corrosion, there is no way to inspect this without removing the pump.
  
• check the drive belt for wear and tension, a bad tensioner or a bad drivebelt could have an effect on the operation of the water pump.
  
• check the pressure cap on the coolant reservoir tank for good pressure, when you remove the cap you should hear a hissing sound this means you have good pressure in your cooling system, check for corrosion or build up on the cap, clean the cap if nessary, also check the coolant in the reservoir tank, it should be clean, if not you might need to have the cooling system flushed.
• check the large upper and lower radiator hose's for cracks, swelling, and proper coolant flow.
  
• Check the operation of the cooling Fan, and circuit, cooling fans use relays and fuses, some vehicles use more than one cooling fan, if your vehicle has two cooling fans there should be two relays and two fuses one for each fan, first visually inspect the fuses if one or both are bad replace them, when a relay is activated it sends voltage to your cooling fan, you can test the relay or relays for continuity by removing them and doing a proper continuity test according to your relays circuit diagram.
  
• Check the coolant temperature sensor, most coolant temperature sensors are located directly in the thermostat housing, this sends information to your ecm which determines when to turn your cooling fan on and off, if it's defective replace it.
  
• Inspect the radiator grill for any debris build up or damage.