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Remove top timing cove, turn crankshaft be hand (using tools) to TDC, and check timing mark on camshaft, here's diagrams for camshaft timing mark's 2.0L SOHC and DOHC, hope this was very helpful.
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timing belts are toothed belts and do not slip
next if it was to get out of time it would never start
so run the fault codes and check for problem crank/cam position sensors
When did you last change the timing belt? If the belt slipped a tooth it could cause your issue. I would do a compression test of all cylinders to see if they are good. Any major variation would indicate a possible timing belt slip. Be advised that this is an interference engine and if the belts breaks or slips too far, valve or piston damage can occur.
Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
Misalignment of timing belt/chain
Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
Bad crank sensor
Bad cam sensor
Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged
First, visually inspect the cam and crank sensors and their harnesses for damage. If you notice broken/frayed wires, repair and recheck.
If you have access to a scope, check the cam and crank patterns. If a pattern is missing, suspect a bad sensor or a slipping tone ring. Remove the cam gear and the crankshaft harmonic balancer and inspect the tone rings for proper alignment and make sure they're not loose or damaged or that they haven't sheared the key that aligns them. If they are properly installed, replace the sensor.
If the signal appears normal, then check the timing chain/belt for proper alignment. If it's misaligned, check for a damaged tensioner that may have allowed the chain/belt to slip a tooth or several teeth. Also check that the belt/chain isn't stretched. Repair and recheck
Good question but only way is to get that information from public library's mechanic' books that can be checked out so you could use it to do your timing.
I think the timing has not been restored properly, and is one belt tooth out. The original mechanic probably will not agree to this, so you may be stuck with having a different mechanic check it.
Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
Misalignment of timing belt/chain
Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
Bad crank sensor
Bad cam sensor
Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged
First, visually inspect the cam and crank sensors and their harnesses for damage.
If you notice broken/frayed wires, repair and recheck.
If you have access to a scope, check the cam and crank patterns. If a pattern is
missing, suspect a bad sensor or a slipping tone ring. Remove the cam gear and the
crankshaft harmonic balancer and inspect the tone rings for proper alignment and
make sure they're not loose or damaged or that they haven't sheared the key that
aligns them. If they are properly installed, replace the sensor.
If the signal appears normal, then check the timing chain/belt for proper
alignment. If it's misaligned, check for a damaged tensioner that may have allowed
the chain/belt to slip a tooth or several teeth. Also check that the belt/chain
isn't stretched. Repair and recheck.
Sounds like the ignition timing is not right. Check to see if the timing belt has slipped (jumped a tooth) and that the belt is tensioned appropriately. Sometimes another pulley can be loose (such as the water pump having too much play) and this takes tension off the belt allowing slippage; look for any signs of belt scrubbing against the engine casing.
The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) and Camshaft position sensor (CMP) work in harmony to control the spark/fuel delivery and timing. They both consist of a reluctor, or tone, ring which passes over a magnetic sensor, which generates a voltage, indicating position.
The crankshaft sensor is part of the primary ignition system and functions as the "trigger". It detects the position of the crankshaft relays that information on to the PCM or the ignition module (depending on the vehicle) to control spark timing. The Camshaft position sensor detects the position of the camshafts and relays the information to the PCM. The PCM uses the CMP signal to identify the beginning of the injector sequence. What ties these two shafts and their sensors together is the timing belt or chain. The cam and crank should be precisely timed together. If the PCM detects that the Crank and Cam signals are out of time by a specific number of degrees, this P0016 code will set.
Causes may include:
Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
Misalignment of timing belt/chain
Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
Bad crank sensor
Bad cam sensor
Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged
First, visually inspect the cam and crank sensors and their harnesses for damage. If you notice broken/frayed wires, repair and recheck.
If you have access to a scope, check the cam and crank patterns. If a pattern is missing, suspect a bad sensor or a slipping tone ring. Remove the cam gear and the crankshaft harmonic balancer and inspect the tone rings for proper alignment and make sure they're not loose or damaged or that they haven't sheared the key that aligns them. If they are properly installed, replace the sensor.
If the signal appears normal, then check the timing chain/belt for proper alignment. If it's misaligned, check for a damaged tensioner that may have allowed the chain/belt to slip a tooth or several teeth. Also check that the belt/chain isn't stretched. Repair and recheck..
T.E.
Coil looks normal. Replaced cap & rotor while there, new plugs. No joy. Pulled back timing belt cover a bit for a look see and looked normal. Used probe to get T.D.C. on #1 and checked rotor position.....again looked like right position. Loosened distributor and rotated to extreme stop, down (advanced?). Nothing. Rotated to opposite and it fired. Didn't let it run (was like it was 180 off, or wires crossed) as I have been told this is an interference engine, just enough to confirm I'm not completely nuts, and fuel, compression, and spark will do something (thank God). Is it possible the timing belt has slipped a tooth? I have had them go, but always completely, not "slip". Then again, those were for the most part, Ford Escorts with 1.8\1.9 engines (ran a fleet of delivery cars in a past life) and they always let go completely. Of course, the acronym for planned obsolescence is F.O.R.D., but I digress.......
Replace the belt?
Thanks so much.
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