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Posted on Jun 05, 2017
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04 cavalier clutch not returning just replaced the master cylinder once I replaced the master cylinder pumped it up had some pedal then when I tried to bleed the system lost pedal back to the floor any suggestions: Hoping its not the slave cylinder cause some idiot at GM put it in the bell housing. And any way possible it could be the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder piece that goes in the slave has a spring and a little plastic plunger with a rubber o-ring

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Stephen john Polley

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  • Chevrolet Master 700 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 05, 2017
Stephen john Polley
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Joined: Mar 29, 2017
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When bleeding system did you depress the pedal very slowly ? if not could have pushed master cylinder past the seal , worth stripping down and checking if the push rod is sealing , could also be the other part to the slave that has failed , hope this helps

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 6982 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 17, 2009

SOURCE: leaking clutch 85 s10 blazer

First, unless you have just done some clutch work you should not need to be bleeding the clutch hydraulic system...that shows that it's leaking. There is nothing inside the bellhousing that has anything to do with clutch fluid, so, the fluid you see is either engine or transmission oil (rear main seal or seal on trans input shaft) Could it be that the clutch slave is leaking and it's running down and dripping at the bottom of the housing? (clean it up and check that)

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Anonymous

  • 33 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 06, 2009

SOURCE: clutch pedal stays 2 the floor on a hydralic

Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.

Martin Bergin

  • 133 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 03, 2010

SOURCE: 1992 Chevy Silverado - Clutch Slave Cylinder broke

JB weld will not work get it welded by a pro with the proper hi frequency welder otherwise you will have to replace the box ,and yes get a new cylinder ,hope you get sorted

Daniel wettstein

  • 69 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 03, 2013

SOURCE: my clutch goes straight to the floor with no resistance

What year make model are we talking about

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How to bleed clutch master cylinder on a 1995

It takes 2 people. Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder, hold your finger over it while the pedal is pumped, releasing the pressure when the pedal is down.. Once it starts pushing fluid thru, close the bleeder, pump 3 times, open bleeder with pedal down. Repeat till clutch feels good. If you are replacing the master cylinder, bench bleed it 1st. Be patient, this all takes awhile.
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it shounds as though your master cylinder might not be pumping any fluid.
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Replace the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder as you have a failure in the system allowing air in and that is why the pedal goes to the floor and will not return up. May be a proper bleed of the system first may fix the problem so do that first but if the fault comes back after a few days then it will be dollars time.
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Hi Monique, As you have replaced the master cylinder, what is the condition of the slave cylinder? I wonder how you are bleeding the system. The procedure is as follows. Fill the reservoir and have a friend keep it full as the bleeding procedure is carried out. Pump the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and then release it to the upper end of its travel. do this until you feel pressure in the pedal and with the pedal pressed all the way to the floor have a friend open and then after two seconds close the bleeding nipple while you hold the pedal down. Once the nipple is closed repeat the action and the bleeding procedure. The nipple must only be opened and then closed while you hold the pedal to the floor. Repeat the procedure until the clutch action returns to normal. Regards John
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sounds like your losing fluid from the slave cylinder or a leak low on the line. Someone should be slowly pumping the pedal as you close the bleed fitting with an extension hose on it in container of fluid to prevent air being sucked back in. Did you replace both the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder? As I recommend to everyone..invest $25 in a shop manual from your local auto parts store or an online access to manuals...
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Hydraulic clutch systems are renown for having airlocks in them once the fluid has drained out.
1.With the Master cylinder full have an assistant pump the clutch pedal acouple of times and keep it on the floor.
2. Release the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to allow the air out and then tighten.
3. Assistant then allows pedal to come up.They may need to pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
4.Repeat from #1 until no nore bubbles are seen coming out of the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
If you have a length of suitable size plastic tube that fits neatly over the the slave cylinder bleed nipple , the bubbles will be seen more clearly.
It could thae 8 to 10 pump sequences to clear the air lock. If the clutch still feels spongy, repeat the sequence after a couple of days driving.
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You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.
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Replace both clutch slave and master cylinders, and bleed well. I've also had this happen.
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