Need to find out the numbers of the camber,when the back tires are being aligned .What about the caster,also?and the toe reset numbers .Can you supply me with the numbers I need?

no vehicle make model. year supplied so the answer is generic but applies to most vehicles toe in is 1/8 -1/4 inch
caster 1 to 1 1/2 degrees and camber 1/2 2 degrees ( all measurements are positive
tire wear is the best guide to wrong alignment
wear on the inside or outside of the tire tread is alignment and toe -in
in the middle or on the outsides of the tread is pressure problems
wheel wobble at speeds ( 30mph up ) is castor adjustment, loose tie rod ends , ball joints and if the castor is approaching negative setting , will, not recenter the wheel after cornering
I suggest that you take the vehicle to an accredited suspension/ wheel alignment shop with experience on your make of vehicle and have it inspected
good shops will recommend that the rear is checked/ adjusted first as much front tire wear can be traced to the back being out

This is just a free chat room

We have no info like that

We are at home & use the site-- the same as you do

camber 0 to 1 degree castor 1 to 2 degrees and toe in 1/ to 1/4 inch as different roads are constructed differently with varying cambers (slope to the side for water run off) the wheel alignment is best set by a qualified wheel aligner shop to suit the local conditions

If the car is stock then I would run the caster at .05 higher on the right than the left to adjust for the crown of the road. the front alignment looks good other than I am not sure which one is camber and which one is caster. To adjust the rear camber on these cars you have to have a camber kit. From the angle I am seeing you don't have a camber kit. Also the only way to adjust caster on the civic is to shift the sub frame.

New ball joints and tie rod ends should tighten up your front suspension nicely. Once you have those new parts installed, a good alignment shop should be able to get you spot on with camber, caster and toe-in. Only if you have bent components (control arms, for instance) would they not be able to get proper adjustments. But they should have been able to determine if you had that problem while checking your current alignment.

Check:
- Wheel alignment (camber, caster, toe in, toe out on turns, king pin inclination.
- Tire inflation.
- Size of the Tires. (same brand and size of all Tires are required)
- Car height.

Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:

1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.


2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications

Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.

Wheel Alignment Specifications

• Camber - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
  • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
• Caster - Measurement in degrees.
  • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
• Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
  • Front: -0 (0)
  • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
• Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
• Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
  • Inner: 41.00
  • Outer: 33.50

Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

• Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
• Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
• Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
• Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)

hope this helps you out.

was your car in a wreck since you have own it?
that would be the only way anyone could bend steering or suspension parts.if your tires are leaning out on top,
it would be a part called"lower control arm assembly",
if you stand in front of your car with the steering wheel straight,and your tires are pointing in on each side,or pointed out instead of straight,that would be a "tie rod "
there is an inner tie rod and an outer tie rod end.
you need to take your car to a shop that does alignments,and have them tell you exactly what is wrong,you can even get lower control arm assemblies
from a salvage yard.but do yourself a favor and don't take your car to a MONROE or MIDAS type shop,they are only there to sell and make commissions! Find a normal shop that the owner is the mechanic.

the tires,check if theyre worn out,make sure you check the inside edgea,if they're wearing unevenly,replace them and get an alignment from someone you trust,make sure the caster/camber and toe are in spec.-toe and camber are tire wearing angles-camber the most-if the inside or outside edges are worn more,or when you drive and let go of the steering wheel,it tilts to one side,camber problem,make sure tires are inflated correctly,about 32-36 psi,check ur gas flap for bmw recommended pressures-u should be safe with what i gave you-so yeah,check tire pressures and wear-if tires feathered,too much toe in or out-this should take care of your problem,good luck

You cannot/should not attempt to adjust alignment without having an alignment machine at hand. There are many settings related to wheel alignment: Toe, camber, caster, scrub, thrust angle. Usually, shims are needed for caster modifications, for toe you need to rotate the tie rods, etc... Every different model has a different setup. With the relatively low cost of a 4 wheel professional alignment today, I would not recommend attempting this yourself. Whatever money you save you'll pay triple or more in tire wear, and soon enough.