On a 1997 GMC Sierra 6cyl; The headlights will not turn on. The courtesy lights work fine & these are the same lights as the headlights. I've replaced the headlight switch and have the same problem! The interior fuse box does not indicate a headlight fuse to check. I can't find it. Is there a circuit breaker or ??? I'm overlooking? Thanks for any help, you can provide...Richard Ritter.

Gary Queen

• 85 Answers
• Posted on Nov 12, 2008

SOURCE: How to replace side mirror on 1996 GMC Sierra?

See Figure 2
Fig. 2: Outside mirror-below eyeline type

1. Remove the mirror cover screw and lift the cover and pivot the mirror towards the window.
2. Remove the mirror to door bolts and remove the mirror and seal from the door.
3. To install, position the mirror and seal to the door and install the retaining bolts.
4. Pivot the mirror away from the window, and lower the mirror cover.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.

SOURCE: I have a short to ground problem

Try removing the bulbs from the rear tail lights you have one 2 bulb system shorting out, so one at a time remove the bulbs then replace the fuse and see which one is bad or just buy new bulbs and replace, also could be front running light blinker light. But sounds like brake light to ground threw bulb.

SOURCE: Headlights won't work on my 1996 GMC sierra

My best guess is a bad ground common to both headlights.

I think the 50 amp fuse is for your starting circuit, not the headlamps, which is a 15 or 20 amp fuse. Did you try both dim and bright settings?

Since you don't know which fuse is for what, just remove and replace each fuse one at a time. As you go, visually inspect each fuse and test for continuity with an ohmmeter, then use a pink pearl eraser to clean the wafer tips before replacing. Do this methodically one at a time and replace any bad fuses with THE EXACT SAME AMPERAGE RATING.
Now, if your fuses are clearly marked and you do have a 50amp fuse in your headlamp circuit then you need to put the correct amperage in ASAP. If you have a 50 amp in the headlight circuit the whole circuit could be fried before the fuse blows, which is why you NEVER replace a fuse with a higher rated amperage.

Once you've worked over the fuseblocks go to the headlamp circuit and follow the wires and plugs coming from the lamps and going to the fuse block. Look for ground connections and tighten those, especially those coming from the headlamp wiring harnesses. If your lamps are good, the fuses are good, the plug connections are clean and making good contact and your grounds are good then all thats left is your headlamp switch and wiring to and fro. If you don't know what the plugs are for no harm can come from cleaning and reconnecting them, so you can't go wrong if you just do one at a time in a methodical fashion.
I have an old S-10 and the headlamp switch is junk- I have to hit it with contact cleaner every once in a while because Houston air quality is poor and there is a lot of ozone- all this corrodes connections- fuse maintenance cures a lot of ills.
After the fuseblocks I'd start by checking the actual headlamps to make sure they are working (check each filament for continuity or put 12v to it to test) and clean the contacts.

Then you can work your way back to the fuseblock and switch checking your plugs and connections. Its all pretty straightforward, just be methodical and clean your plug connections as you go. No schematic needed- just a little patience.

One thing to think about if your headlamps are both blown is that your alternator may be overcharging, or the regulator isn't working properly and your headlamps are blown because they got hit with too high a voltage. Eventually this will sulfate the battery and cause an internal short- if it is bulging you can be sure this is happening. So get your alternator and regulator circuit checked if this is the case.
Good luck, If this fixed ya then please rate this solution

SOURCE: 1997 GMC Sierra p/u. Brake light & blinker out. Taillights ok.

I have notice that this is a common problem. The socket most of the time goes bad, I don't know why but they just do. You can pick them up at any parts store for around 5.00 each. If you don't have a volt meter and ground straps to test it right, then I would try changing the sockets out. Quick and easy. Let us know how it goes.

SOURCE: installing driver side interior door handle

pull the inner panel off by first un screwing the two screws located on the handle portion of the panel(they may have plastic hadeaway covers over the heads) then remove the window rolldown handle(if so equipped,manual window)then pull the plastic trangle from the inner of the mirror(this little tri angle keeps the trim down and secure on the door. then pull the palnel directly out there are small clasp pins in behind the panel try not to break these(but they do sell replacements at your local auto store) you will have to get ALL of these free then wiggle the panel up releasing it from the inner shell of the door and and window. you should now have a clean view of the handle. you will now need to droll out the rivit holding the handle to the inner steel of the door. pull the handle forward and it should be released from the inner steel now there clips holding the "rods" to the handles back side, they should have a little piece clipped to the rodto un clip these you need only push them off with your thumb. then replace handle with the new one, and uce a large steel screw to secure the handle when replacing back on door.