My 1997 300 TDI Disco is leaking fuel from the back rear of the injector pump. I don't think its coming form the injector pipe unions. Is it possible to be coming from the torque key bolts?? I pulled one out yesterday and unsuccessfully tried to seal it. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated. I don't want to take the pump out (due to time and money) if I can help it.

pump, relay. fuse . pressure regulator / ecm are all possibles

Hi there:
This Australia made TOYOTA CAMRY SV21 was produced in 1989, similar at 3S-FE Engine...

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the harness from the cold start injector.
3. Place a towel or rag under the cold start injector pipe and remove the two union bolts, four gaskets and delivery pipe.

Loosen the union pipe bolts slowly.

1. Disconnect the vacuum sensing hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
2. Disconnect the fuel return pipe hose.
3. Remove the pulsation damper with the two gaskets. Discard the gaskets and purchase new ones.
4. Unbolt and remove the delivery pipe with the injectors attached.

When removing the delivery pipe, take care not to drop it as damage to the injectors may result.

1. Remove the four insulators and two spacers from the cylinder head.
2. Gently pull the injectors from the delivery pipe.
3. Remove the O-rings and grommets from the injectors and purchase new ones.

To install:

1. Install a new grommet and new O-ring onto each injector. Make sure that they are installed evenly, to ensure a good seat and save yourself from having to take the injectors out and readjust or replace the O-rings.

1. Lightly coat the O-rings with clean fuel.
2. Install the injectors into the delivery pipe. Do not **** the injector, install it straight into the opening using a light left to right twisting motion.
3. Place the four insulators and two spacers on the cylinder head.
4. Install the injectors together with the delivery pipe onto the cylinder head.
5. Go to each injector and rotate it by hand. The injector should rotate smoothly.

If the injectors don't rotate smoothly, the O-rings are probably not installed correctly or the injectors are not installed evenly. If this is the case, you will have the pull the delivery pipe off the intake manifold and look at the O-rings to make sure that they are installed correctly. Adjust the O-rings and, if damaged, replace them.

1. After the delivery pipe and injectors are properly in place, go to each injector and position the connector so that it is facing upward.
2. Install the two delivery pipe retaining bolts and tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
3. Install the pulsation damper with two new gaskets on both sides of the fuel hose "banjo'' fitting. Tighten the damper.
4. Connect the fuel return hose.
5. Attach the injector connectors.
6. Connect the vacuum sensing hose.
7. Using new gaskets, connect the cold start injector pipe to the delivery pipe and cold start injector. Tighten the two union bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
8. Attach the cold start injector wiring connector.
9. Connect the negative battery cable.
10. Short the +B and Fp terminals of the engine check connector with a jumper wire.
11. While the connector is shorted, pinch the fuel return hose. When the pinched, this causes the pressure in the high pressure fuel line to rise to 57 psi. ( kPa) At this time any leaks in any part of the system should be apparent. Carefully look at each component for leakage and run the tip of your finger around each connection.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Just had same problem myself. Very expensive one too.
Contaminant appears to have gotten through to the injector tips and damaged the injector nozzles. Was told by mazda it is water in the fuel. Injectors are very expensive an I replaced 4 and all was fine until 1000kms later the same thing happened. Totally ruined our holiday to Cape York in Australia. Mazda say they are now waiting to get new high pressure steel injector pipes from japan? which makes me very curious and now I think the pipes are possibly corroding inside and allowing metal into the injectors. One of my injectors blew a huge hole in the nozzle and I don't think water droplets would cause that? I change my filters quite regular and always check for contamination and never found any water or anything in the filters that would indicate dirty fuel. There is nowhere else it can come from? There is also a fine steel mesh filter inline where the fuel pipe enters the main fuel pump and this would positively stop any contaminate getting thru to the pump and rail, and consequently to the injectors so obviously the pipes appear to be the only other source, I would think deteriorating internally. But once the injectors are damaged there is nothing more to do but replace them and make sure no more contaminant can get to them. I'm not totally sure but mazda say the new injectors have to be tuned using their u-beaut computer system after they are fitted? I also have been told to fit a CAV fuel filter with water trap between the tank and the main fuel filter when I finally get my car back from mazda so I can be sure nothing can ever get through from the tank. Seems strange that all the injector problems seem to occur around the 60,000 - 80,000km mark and always only just out of warranty. I'm still waiting for my $bill. Best of luck.

Hi,

if the diesel does not start on the starter mtr, are you tow-starting it?
There are a couple of other bits of info required. I say that, because if the engine isn't turning over fast enough on the str mtr then it will not start. If it has got the cranking speed, then the injector pump isn't getting enough fuel to pump to the injectors.

However, that theory is null and void if the engine fires with a 'bump / tow' start

QUICK INITIAL TEST:

Remove the cap from the fuel tank.
Slacken the OUTLET fuel pipe union on the Fuel Lift Pump.If unsure trace the fuel inlet pipe back from the fuel injection pump.

Have a helper crank the engine and check for fuel coming from the slackened union.

No fuel or little fuel? Problem between fuel tank and lift pump, or Lift pump is faulty.

Check fuel supply pre-filter for trash etc. Also check vent hole in the fuel tank cap, it must be clear. If no vent in fuel cap, check tank and ensure that if a vent is fitted that it is CLEAR of any obstructions.

Have you checked the throttle position on the start sequence?

What diesel engine is in the vehicle? It should have a 'lift' pump to bring the fuel from the tank to the injection pump.If the 'lift' pump is not working correctly, or if there is an air leak between the fuel tank and the 'lift' pump then it will not be pulling sufficent fuel from the tank to the injection pump. The injection pump merely compresses the fuel and sends it to the injectors. If the vehicle was allowed to run out of fuel, was refilled and then will not start when cranking, you may have air in the injection pump.

Do you know the difference between a DPA injection pump and an inline injection pump? DPA pump works like a distributor in a gas engine. They are also notoriously fickle as regards fuel requirements / supply.

As you are in a somewhat remote location I would advise you to get a length of hose, suitable for transferring diesel from a 1 gal container to the engine. Locate the fuel "lift' pump and slacken the pipe union on the outlet side, (the feed to the injector pump") Go to the primary fuel filterand slacken the inlet fuel pipe union, but do NOT remove the pipe from the primary filter .. Remove the pipe from the LIFT pump outlet, and be careful with it. Depending on the type of union, you can either slide an end of the length of hose which you have on hand, over the pipe end and clamp it with a screw type hose clamp, (Jubilee type). As you have already slackened the fuel pipe at the primary fuel filter. Move the fuel inlet pipe at the lift pump, with now attached hose untill it is clear of local obstructions.

Now, using a funnel, or whatever, pour a cup or two of diesel into the hose from the LIFT pump end. Secure the hose in a high vertical position, (use the bonnet / hood and a piece of sash cord / mechanic's style wire). Go to the inlet fuel pipe at the primary fuel filter and check id fuel is coming out of the union which you had slackened. If fuel is apparent, secure the union.

Now, the usual way to do the next step is with a helper, it makes it a lot easier. It also depends upon whether you have a DPA type injection pump or an inline.

If you have a DPA pump, (identified by the fact that all the injector lines are situated around the body of the pump at one end, hence the Distributor Pump Assy name.) then you will have to bleed the pump assembly. There are normally TWO bleed screws on the unit if it is of CAV origin. One is normally located on the front side of the pump casing quite evidently visible. It is small, I think 3/16 wrench, or the metric equivalent. However, there is a smaller bleed screw on the pump casing usually located on the engine block side..

That is the one which people tend to miss, and end up having great difficulty in bleeding the pump correctly.

If you cannot find the smaller bleed screw, do not despair. Open the FRONT bleed screw and instruct your helper to start feeding diesel fuel down the hose. Do NOT remove the bleed screw completely to speed up the bleeding process. You will find, as a lot of people have, that you will drop it, and have a hard job finding it, as it seems to be reluctant to fit back into the threaded hole it came from!

Plus if you just slack it, you will not run the risk of cross-threading it when you try to re-fit it.

Ok, have a gallon jug or similar, securely sitting on the wing / mudguard /fender filled with diesel on the lift pump side where you have secured your hose.Ensure that the hose fitted to the fuel line to the main fuel filters and hence to the injector pump is fully primed and then place it into the gallon jug of fuel on the fender /mudguard etc.
Get your assistant to crank the engine, and it should start. You now know that the lift pump / line tfrom fuel tank to lift pump is definetly faulty.

You might well check the fuel line Pre-filter which is normally situated between the fuel tank and the lift pump. If it's full of sediment, it will not allow free flow of fuel. Likewise check the main fuel filters for blockage, plus check a fuel /water separator if fitted.

Is the engine fitted with heater / glow plugs? If it is, and they are not working, the engine will not start even on a warm day. Check the wiring to them etc. There should be an indicator in the cab to show if they are on or not.

If they do not work, and you have checked them with a meter etc, Disconnect the wiring to them. Get a can of Diesel start, which consists primarily of ether and have your helper crank the engine. Whilst the engine is cranking, spray a SMALL amount of the starting fluid into the main air cleaner. If the engine starts, well and good. If you do not have starting fluid, spray a little WD40 onto a piece of rag and hold it in the main
air inlet cleaner. If all is well the engine will fire up. Do NOT use gasoline / petrol, as a starting aid, the engine may very well give a very large bang and self distruct!! Do not jam the rag into the air inlets the engine will ingest it and you will have a BIG problem. Do all the above AT the MAIN air cleaner.

Checking for fuel at the injectors entails SLOWLY slackening the injector farthest from the injection pump, whilst someone cranks the engine. The injector must be tightened when the fuel is under pressure, other wise air will be sucked in and that cylinder may well have a "miss'. just a reminder::))

Last but not least! Check the DPA pump and ascertain which type of stop control is fitted. Some have an electric solenoid so check the wiring to it and ensure that it has a full operating stroke. Disconnecting the wiring to the off /on solenoid when the engine is stopped, then, turning the ign on and touching the wire to the connector on the pump should result in an audible click. Some of those DPA pumps on / off solenoids work in reverse. The power is applied to the solenoid when the engine shutdown switch is activated. Through a relay operated by engine oil pressure, the power is held to the solenoid long enough to shut the engine down. With the engine shut down, oil pressure drops and the relay is opened and power is disconnected from the solenoid. Likewise check if it is a mechanical off/on cable operated lever. if it has worked loose etc, then it will hold the "no fuel' position when trying to start.

I hope this gives you something to work with. Before closing, are you aware that you could rig a 12V auto gasoline pump to supply fuel to either the lift pump or the main fuel filters if you find that the lift pump is indeed faulty but that obtaining a replacement locally may prove to be difficult. If you do fit a 12 V auto gas pump to the fuel system, you will be able to bleed the entire system at the DPA injection pump as the 12V pump will push the fuel all the way through the system. A word of warning on that issue, make sure the fuel return line from the DPA injection pump can handle the flow from the 12V gas pump. if not then you will have to fit a pressure reducer in the outlet side of the 12V pump. they are sold in auto stores, and some pumps actually have them fitted.

,slacken the injector pipes off then assistant cranks engine with throttle wide open ,as you see fuel start to appear at an injector tighten the nut ,as soon as you have about 2 or more bled out it will fire .easy to do

Hi Jonah,

I have the same problem and it only propped up after i had my exhaust manifold repaired, do you think the mechanic didnt do the weld it right?

James
2001 Saturn L200

Check the fuel lines, fuel filter, what is the mileage? If it is high than it might a sign of injector pump or injectors.

its not loosing the fule its running back into the tank, you have an air leak in the suckshion side of the fule line, a pin hole some were or a leaking joint it could even be in the fule pump itself or the fule filter "o" ring is leaking air but thats were the problem is try fitting a none return velve to the fule pipe upto the pump

Check turbo hoses for splits , remove them and check inside of the pipes for loose rubber , these loose bits normally get filled with air and block the pipes.Also check the pipe between the turbo and the injector pump for splits.I am close to you in Nelspruit if you need help.Contact Fixya or send a message to Landyman.

It is on the passenger side right behind the washer fluid fill tube. You can follow the fuel lines (look like 1/4" black tubes, some are clear) from the injector pump to it. It is a caniser a bit bigger than a normal looking oil filter and sits between the washer bottle and the metal that forms the wheel well. It is held in by a screw type clamp about half way down the cylinder. Probably isn't the fuel filter unless there is air in the lines to the injector pump or they didn't bother to fill the fuel filter up with diesel after putting it in. There is not a fuel pump in the tank in these cars so everything is sucked up by the injector pump and it needs to be primed properly.