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Did you check the power to the relay? and then the signal wire (ground) at the relay to see if it's being signaled? Otherwise you may have a clockspring or module problem not allowing the signal to pass through to the relay.
Your horn circuit is very simple. It consists of the primary circuit, which controls the relay coil and the secondary circuit that applies voltage through the relay contacts to the horns.
The Horn fuse (10 Amp) in the engine compartment fuse block supplies the battery power for both the primary and secondary circuits. This fuse is haot at all times (regardless of the ignition switch position).
Battery power is supplied to Pin 1 of the horn relay. Pin one of the relay connects to both the relay coil and to the secondary main contact.
The ground for the relay coil is provided via the GREEN/BLACK wire through the horn switch. If the relay is clicking when you push the horn button, then the primary side of the horn circuit is working.
When the relay coil is grounded by the horn switch, the relay contacts come together (that's what makes the clicking sound) and supply voltage to the GREEN/WHITE wire that connects to the horn assemblies.
Check for battery voltage at the horn when the horn switch is pressed. If there is no battery voltage present, then the only thing it can possibly be is dammaged contacts in the horn relay or the GREEN/WHITE wire is broken between the relay and the horn.
If there is voltage present at the horn on the GREEN/WHITE wire, the only possibilities are bad horn assemblies or a bad body ground that is not allowing the horns to ground properly. A bad ground condition can be verified by running a jumper wire from the battery NEGATIVE post and connecting it to the mounting bolt at the horn. If this makes the horn work, then you probably need to repair your body grounds near the battery.
The relay is to allow the new horns to draw full power from the battery. They won't be nearly as loud if you don't wire it the way they suggest, and you may still blow the fuse.
Disconnect the plug from the horn and using a negative and Positive wire that you run directly from the battery make contact with each on the horn contacts. The horn should sound, if it doesn't the horn is bad. If it does and it still doesn't work from the button on the steering wheel, since you have replaced the fuses and relays already, the horn button on the steering wheel is bad.
Could be the horn button on the steering wheel, (When you push the button on the steering wheel do you hear the relay click on?). Other than that the horns are bad or the ground wires on them are corroded. (Pull the signal wires off the horns and try to sound them with a wire connected to (+) positive on the battery, be careful, you can get a shock engaging a horn with power.)
Well, it could be a fuse. Check the associated fuse, if it is ok then proceed to checking for power at the horn (it should have 12v). If the horn has power then replace the horn. If it does not then seek proffesional certified help due to the fact that the problem is going to be in the steering column or horn pad, and that will require dealing with the airbag system (which is NOT recommended) unless qualified.
check B+ in the horn pin and check the ground on the horn if there is B+ and B- just change the horn if there is no B+ on the horn conector replace the relay .
B+ = battrey power
B- = battrey ground
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