The wrong ecu was in it i changed it to the right one after that ther was no vtech and the car stalls sometimes its a motor swap the motor is an accord but its in a 94 prelude. and the car jerks back and fourth when your at a stedy speed

best to change cam and crank sensor as they both need to work together. if either one goes it confuse the ecu depending on how the sensor goes wrong. so will show cam sensor fault. but really its the crank.

hot engine or cold or both, just a clue here.
wow gue$$sing is expen$ive.
is the CEL lamp glowing ever running,, YES?< then scan it.


ok so it stalls.
after the skipped 60k mile tuneup is done
if it still stalls.
so you use the right foot action fast acting at stall...?????
and you can prevent the stall easy.
1: very easy, iSC stuck closed or throttle idle detection is bad.
2: harder to stop stall but can , EGR leaks, main EGR valve.
3: impossible. this is gross spark failure ,or loss fuel or flooding

see how far you get on my list. and post back.

first ,now how the EFI works not guessing
it tries all the time to prevent stalls if it cant prevent it, it does stall.
rule2, the ECU controls idle speeds at all times the ISC is the slave to that..... so if the ECU open the valve and the stall gets worse.
its not the ISC/ECU fault. its fueling or spark.
a lean engine stalls. if lean enough ,no ISC can stop that.
a misfiring engine stalls, too.

a tech, dont attach the ISC< no he does not
he looks at spark an fuel rates. using , a scan tool.
The ISC can not cover the bad tracks of bad fueling and spark
nor a stuck open EGR.
THE ISC is dead if the TPS is set wrong, and the ECU thinks wrongly
that you are not at idle. so the ECU cuts idle controls

I use my scan tool to watch the, for error,s DTCS,. and pending errors
and watch for closed loop at idle. hot.
if it is in close loop at idle and it stalls then the ISC is failing
if rigth foot can save it easy.
id bet the fueling and spark are bad or TPS not closed, signalling close or the EGR is stuck wide open'

btw., if eCU drop s to limphome mod (scan it) it will infact drop all ISC
idle controls..

we look for the true cause, do tests, then replace parts
never the reverse or go broke fast.

a fuel pressure gauge is $20
if pressures ok at fail, then it s NOT PRESSURE problem
(physics here)
you could by a scan tool (obd1) and see what happens at stalls.

one way to find stalls for sure pre 1996 is to measure voltages
on the ASD relay (the stall relay, LOL)
it if drops just before the stall that means the stall was
ECU COMMANDED.
and if the ECU commanded it , it knows why and will tell you why.
if the stall is not due to ASD drop
then its may other causes.
when you said it had no spark, i bet $10 you did it wrong,?
takes 2 persons, one at key other testing
if not you can NOT run from key to spark plugs, in 2 seconds
the ASD drop out rules.
yah cant
rule 1: key on and see the ASD close, (voltages)
it must close for 2 seconds cranked, must
and just stay closed, cranked, or if in 2 seconds it drops out
'that means the ECU dropped ASD for CAUSES, 1 to 8 reasons
the VTSS reason is not it, your car has no Immoblizer. feature.
http://jeepdied.com/no-start.html

here is a list
engine bad, low compression on 1 or or cylinders. (ask how)
spark is bad, ever get a tuneup this decade? FULL(spark parts)
ASD dead.
ASD drops early
ASD can drop at 80mph, so, ASD is always suscpec
loss of 12vdc power to the EFI system at any time it will stall.
can you save the stall with fast right foot, this test is like magic
in the diagnosis world, can you?
is engine flooding spark tips soaked, x4?
use wide open throttle to cut fuel cranked clears all floods i jeeps
(baring injector leaks sure)

what is ASD (all jeep stalls, read this first)
what does it do, and how, and why,
are all here
http://jeepdied.com/ASD.html

cam sensor it also linked to the crank sensor usually if the cam sensor fails around the same time the crank can become un synced with the replacement. or the new sensor is not the correct one, ie sensor from a 1998 model will sometimes work on a 2005 model if it has the same ecu fitted in the 2005 not the hole ecu but the chip. on the cam sensor there is say in some cases 3 poles positive feed negative and then signal. on all the poles there is a resistance between poles that the ecu reeds. it reads the voltage being used and the signal its receiving if one of these is wrong but it detects one of the readings being right it will think the other sensor is wrong. and thats a mis match. the resistance changes over time.

You might want to check the ECU of the engine that u swapped it to. Because the original ecu is only for the 1.4L non vtec!!!

if the ecu does test good then i"d recommend changing the fuel filter.

bro. what u need is a b18 ls Vtech, or b16 swap.if u swap ur rex. hit me up

Look for the fuel pump relay and replace it.


Robert

Haven't had this problem in my 206, the only reason I can think of the motor stopping after you brake is because you haven't changed gear aswell? For example, stopping from 30 at traffic lights and not depressing the clutch will eventually stall the engine.

does throttle sensor check out correctly???