Upon start when key turns in ignition Gauges flutter. Also after start CD player initiates 8 to 10 times. Sometimes display goes into test mode and shows problem with anti theft . Also the battery has been loosing a charge overnight eventhouth the battery checks out good and gauges indicate proper charging. Gremlins?

I would suspect the ignition switch (electrical) is the problem due to the age of your Jeep. Sometimes when you turn the ignition key if it's really bad, you will feel a bit of roughness indicating the switch is breaking apart inside.

Turn the key from off to on repeatedly and see if you notice if the fuel & volt gauges work each time.

If you find it's not the switch, you'll need to check your wiring ground locations to make sure they are not rusted and are making good electrical contact. Specifically, a ground wire to the dash panel.

If all grounds are in excellent condition then you may need to trace the wiring from the battery to the ign. switch to the gauges to see if you can find any damaged loose or pinched wiring. A good 12 volt test light should help you to isolate and find this issue, start at the battery and work your way through:)

FLEX your wiring a bit and make sure it's still flexible. Sometimes your wiring can become so corroded over time that current barely makes it to the destination.


Good luck.

Are you sure that it is in fact the fuel pump relay ? With the key off no B+ voltage is supplied to the relay . Pin 86 at the base ,where the relay plugs into . Fuse #15 a 10 amp fuse is hot with ignition switch in the run or start position . Pin 85 is control from the PCM - engine computer . Pin's 30 & 87 are the load side , fuel pump being the load . If your unfamiliar with the pins i'm talking about , pull the relay out an look on the bottom ,you will see these numbers .Pin #30 will show B+ voltage all the time , pin 86 only with the key on or start .

I would initially suspect a bad ignition switch (not the lock....the actual switch). It could also be a short poor ground, failing component on the instrument cluster board etc. Try go ogling your problem with your specific year make and model to see if this may be a common issue.

I'd have to check voltage and ground for the instrument cluster. I noticed one of the fuses for your instrument cluster goes hot with the key on, same thing for ac compressor. I'd have to voltage feed to and from ignition switch for applicable fuse. Check the ignition switch wiring connector. I can't rule out ignition switch itself, at the moment.
There could be other issues?
Ignition switch faults are common on some makes and models.
Instrument cluster wiring connector problems. Sometimes if you disconnect and reconnect the instrument cluster connector, it may start working again, also, cycling the instrument cluster connector may reset, if it starts working, well, it's working for now, may quit again.
Some instrument clusters may do a self test, don't know about yours?
Press and hold odometer reset button, turn key to run position release odometer reset button, watch the odometer. Your indicator lamps may turn on and off, the gages may cycle in small increments. The cluster will exit self test on its own.
You may have to check buss circuits.

A bad connection could be it, possibly a failing relay. One would have to pull some paneling off, possibly the steering wheel covers, to start looking for the problem.
Coming out of the ignition switch will be a start wire, an accessory wire, and a run wire. The run wire is for both the ignition system and for the gauges and warning lights. One splice of this run wire will go to the fuse panel, to power up those fuses that are termed "hot in run or accessory". Or sometimes, the run wire energizes a relay that sends power to the fuse panel. One of these fuses will be for the gauges and warning lights in the dash.
If you have a test light or voltmeter, you could check the fuse terminals for power at those times when the gauges are not working. If the fuse terminal shows no power when the key is on, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. This could be a relay that is not working- probably called an ignition relay-and it may be right around the fuse panel. If the fuse terminals do have power when key is on, but gauges are not working, the problem is between the fuse panel and the dash-will probably need to pull the dash cluster out to look further-possibly the electrical connector or connections at the cluster. If you wiggle the wiring around the fuse panel and the ignition switch and see the gauges move (key on), then you are wiggling a bad connection and can find and fix it.

typical jeep gremlins on a 17 year old car
mechanics either replace all the computers and modules
or throw lots of unnecessary parts into it with minimal results

needs a volt meter an LED test lamp and a lot of time
tracing the wiring faults
starting at the battery through to the ECU and ignition

you need to check all fuses one by one for loose contact.leave the igtion key to on position and try to tap the fuse box, shake wires from battery going to inside the car.A testlight is effective in diagnosting this trouble.Probing the wires on the ignition switch while turning on the key.Need somebody to observe the cluster while performing the troubleshooting.

open curcuit in crank sensor replace it.

To carry out this procedure you need to have one working key and one key which requires programming. It may help sometimes to hold the key close to the rear view mirror as this is where the sensor is located in most models. 1. With both keys, get in the car and close all windows and doors. 2. Put working key into the ignition and turn to position 1 (the accessories should turn on) (try also position 2) 3. Turn the key back to position 0 and take the key out of the ignition. 4. Using the working key, hold down the unlock button, press the BMW logo (lock button) 3 times, and release the unlock button. Doors should lock and unlock. 5. With the new key, hold down the unlock button and press the BMW logo (lock button) 3 times and let go of the unlock button. Doors should lock and unlock and you're done!! If not working try the following PREPARATION 1. Close all doors, trunk, hood and sunroof. 2. The security system must be in 'disarm' mode. The key must be removed from the ignition key slot. ENTER CODE LEARNING MODE 3. Open trunk and leave it opened. 4. Open the drivers door and sit in the drivers seat. 5. Close the drivers door. 6. Cycle the ignition switch 5 times between the 'OFF' position and position 2,(ignition 'ON', all dash warning lamps will illuminate). The red status LED will illuminate continuously, and the siren will 'chirp' once, to indicate that the code-learning mode has been initiated. ?Do No start the engine.? The Ignition switch cycling in step #6 must be performed within 10 seconds. The sequence in steps #1-#6 must be performed within 45 seconds. REGISTER/DELETE ID CODE(S) 7. Open drivers door, (remain seated in the drivers seat) 8. Close the drivers door. 9. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register in the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one code has been registered. 10. Repeat steps 7 thru 9 to register the three ID codes. It is possible for the system to memorize a total of 4 different ID codes. As a new code is initialized into the memory, the oldest code is automatically deleted. If you had lost your remotes and wished to delete the lost remote ID codes from the memory, you could initialize the ID codes from a newly purchased replacement transmitter four times thereby deleting the previous ID codes from the system memory. EXITING CODE - LEARNING MODE: 11. Open drivers door, and exit from the vehicle, leaving the door opened. 12. Close trunk. 13. Close drivers door. The LED will turn off and the siren will 'chirp twice. 14. The initialization procedure is now completed; Test all remotes to confirm operation. If this doent work your alarm/central lock needs to be reset

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